I’ve searched through other threads with similar issues.
I have a XUV 550 that will not shift out of gear while running. It doesn’t matter if it’s going from forward to reverse or reverse to forward. I have to shut the engine off every time then it will allow me to shift to desired direction. Gator only has 40 hours even though it’s 4 years old & has been doing this pretty much since new. My dad bought it new for lake property & is no longer able to use it so I’ve been using it some on hunting property.
Any recommendations on a non dealer mechanic in Kentucky or within a couple hours of 40245?
I’ve searched through other threads with similar issues.
I have a XUV 550 that will not shift out of gear while running. It doesn’t matter if it’s going from forward to reverse or reverse to forward. I have to shut the engine off every time then it will allow me to shift to desired direction. Gator only has 40 hours even though it’s 4 years old & has been doing this pretty much since new. My dad bought it new for lake property & is no longer able to use it so I’ve been using it some on hunting property.
Any recommendations on a non dealer mechanic in Kentucky or within a couple hours of 40245?
My 550 was doing the same thing. It's the clutch. What happens ( I believe ) is that the clutch sticks in the "closed" or engaged position, and will not release "open" to take the tension off of the belt. When the engine is off, the secondary is no longer engaged and if you are on reasonably flat ground you can sometimes convince it to shift, but it will eventually leave you stranded.
I highly recommend the clutch doc. Very reasonable prices and the result is a clutch that performs AS IT SHOULD.
The removal / installation takes a bit of time, and the clutch shroud is a pain to deal with, but if you have the tech manual [TM109819] things will go pretty smoothly. You'll also want to get a clutch removal bolt [JDG1641] .
My 550 was doing the same thing. It's the clutch. What happens ( I believe ) is that the clutch sticks in the "closed" or engaged position, and will not release "open" to take the tension off of the belt. When the engine is off, the secondary is no longer engaged and if you are on reasonably flat ground you can sometimes convince it to shift, but it will eventually leave you stranded.
I highly recommend the clutch doc. Very reasonable prices and the result is a clutch that performs AS IT SHOULD.
The removal / installation takes a bit of time, and the clutch shroud is a pain to deal with, but if you have the tech manual [TM109819] things will go pretty smoothly. You'll also want to get a clutch removal bolt [JDG1641] .
I sent the clutch to the doc & received it back within a few days. Awesome turnaround!
I did the install today. For the 1st time since it was new I can shift gears without shutting it off. At first I was worried about low gear because it sounded like it wasn’t catching the gear. After a couple times I found the gear shifter needed to be moved forward more firmly. I didn’t run it much & probably won’t until the end of summer when it gets closer to deer season. I did run it through the gears several times & so far so good.
I sent the clutch to the doc & received it back within a few days. Awesome turnaround!
I did the install today. For the 1st time since it was new I can shift gears without shutting it off. At first I was worried about low gear because it sounded like it wasn’t catching the gear. After a couple times I found the gear shifter needed to be moved forward more firmly. I didn’t run it much & probably won’t until the end of summer when it gets closer to deer season. I did run it through the gears several times & so far so good.
Not to put anyone out of a job but a cluch job is easy on the 550.
Actually it's better to check it before sending it off anyway.
Remove top of the clutch cover and loosen the 10mm bolts while spinning it round, do not remove the center bolt yet.
Now you should have a little space to turn the rollers and check them for flatness.
If you do not have clearance loosen the center bolt slightly.
If they are flat on one side remove entirely and check for any side to side movement of the assembled clutch
If there is no play side to side if you push it in and the wall where the "star" rides on is not worn out then you can just install a new rebuild kit yourself.
If you can not find any problems here clean it well and reassemble it.
Test drive and if problem stays check the rear for wear.
Obviously this is a rough guide and I've Seen clutches just crap out for no reason
A big hint for a worn clutch is a delayed click when you release the gas.
Hi Guys
Does any one have the specs on the clutch removal tool.JDG1641.
I canot get one in Australia for about 3 weeks so thought i would turn one up.
TIA
Brett
1/2-12x 6.0" long Grade 8 bolt (Course or fine threads... It doesn't matter)
9/16-18x4.0" long Grade 8 bolt
Cut the threads and hex head from the 1/2" bolt leaving just the shank of approximately 3.37" long. Make both cuts square to prevent side loads during removal.
Put the 1/2" shank into the hole first. Lube the 9/16-18 threads (I used anti-seize) and crank away.
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