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post #16 of 28 Old 09-26-2018, 06:05 PM
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I can't see video here, but are the chains OK? If this thing has been sitting a long time, the chains may have taken a set. Tires will do that too. Our 6x4 takes about 1/2 a mile to settle down if it has been sitting a bit, and our chains aren't stiff. I've found that when our guys overinflate the tires they tend to get out of round. 4-5 psi is plenty in the rear. BTW congrats on the Gator. Ours is a diesel from '98. They are not very sophisticated, but are very reliable and pretty easy to work on. I've also seen belts with thinner or burned sections make a drive very rough. If this thing runs, it's worth putting a new belt on. John Deere, last I checked, was still making and selling machines almost identical to ours--just a lot more expensive.
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post #17 of 28 Old 10-09-2018, 08:16 AM
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Hi was hoping somebody could confirm with me on something. I have a 2008 620i with a code flashing 1-3. Would this be the coolant temp sensor malfunction as the rad stays on all the time. Thanks!
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post #18 of 28 Old 10-09-2018, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
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Hi was hoping somebody could confirm with me on something. I have a 2008 620i with a code flashing 1-3. Would this be the coolant temp sensor malfunction as the rad stays on all the time. Thanks!
Yes it is water temperature sensor. "Code displays if < 50 ohms present. Check for open circuit"
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post #19 of 28 Old 10-10-2018, 02:07 AM
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Okay awesome thanks’ I’m guessing it’s the sensor on the throttle body. Thanks for your help!!
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post #20 of 28 Old 07-02-2019, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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Can’t believe it’s almost been a year! I’ve been distracted with other projects... still chasing down my vibration problem. I took the belt off and it looked fine. I saw some rust on the drive and too much wear. I’m guessing this is the vibration issue. Engine is smooth with the belt off. Do I need to replace the worn part or can it be refurbished?

What do folks think? Thanks, Carl
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post #21 of 28 Old 07-03-2019, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsilatipac View Post
Can’t believe it’s almost been a year! I’ve been distracted with other projects... still chasing down my vibration problem. I took the belt off and it looked fine. I saw some rust on the drive and too much wear. I’m guessing this is the vibration issue. Engine is smooth with the belt off. Do I need to replace the worn part or can it be refurbished?

What do folks think? Thanks, Carl


First off remove both clutch’s and clean them with hot soapy water using a “maroon” ScotchBrite and nylon scrub brush the sheave half’s. Do not use excessive force, otherwise you risk damaging the machined face on the sheaves. Do not use a steel or brass brush.

You may also use alcohol or non chlorinated brake cleaner, based on your comfort level.

Secondly you are missing “ramp shoes” (buttons) on the secondary clutch, this may likely account for the vibration. Without the buttons the clutch is spinning out of balance.

See screenshots below, note depending on the part number of the secondary clutch there are 2 different button kits.

Please read instructions from the OEM Technical Manual CAREFULLY. There are specific procedures based on the PIN of your transaxle on your Gator. You may also need a new seal sleeve and thrust washer based again on the transaxle PIN.

OEM 6x4 Technical manual information below:







John Deere Parts Catalog website address:

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/...pgId/144604645

Part diagram:







Finally replace the belt, regardless of how it “looks”.

Please report back on your progress.

Good luck!!

On edit: there maybe issues with the primary clutch as well? We can address them separately, if needed.

2012 Gator 825i (new engine at 1700 hours) Power Steering-Sport Exhaust- Deluxe Cab-Heater- Work Lights On Top Front And Rear- Hella HID Driving Lights-Warn ProVantage 4500 synthetic winch-Electric Dump- Gillmore Seat Covers

Last edited by Bradhill; 07-03-2019 at 01:25 PM.
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post #22 of 28 Old 07-03-2019, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Wow! What a thorough and great reply! Thank you!
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post #23 of 28 Old 07-04-2019, 02:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsilatipac View Post
Wow! What a thorough and great reply! Thank you!


You are most welcome!

2012 Gator 825i (new engine at 1700 hours) Power Steering-Sport Exhaust- Deluxe Cab-Heater- Work Lights On Top Front And Rear- Hella HID Driving Lights-Warn ProVantage 4500 synthetic winch-Electric Dump- Gillmore Seat Covers
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post #24 of 28 Old 07-04-2019, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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I’ve got it a part and have been cleaning up with a red pad. I’m wondering if it is still usable or if it should be replaced. There is galling on the cam and ramps. I also don’t know how much clearance there should be on the shaft, it seems a bit loose to me
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Last edited by Tsilatipac; 07-04-2019 at 11:40 AM.
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post #25 of 28 Old 07-04-2019, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsilatipac View Post
I’ve got it a part and have been cleaning up with a red pad. I’m wondering if it is still usable or if it should be replaced. There is galling on the cam and ramps. I also don’t know how much clearance there should be on the shaft, it seems a bit loose to me


The beauty of the early model clutch’s is you can replace many of the parts. How are the seals ?

See link above provided for parts

2012 Gator 825i (new engine at 1700 hours) Power Steering-Sport Exhaust- Deluxe Cab-Heater- Work Lights On Top Front And Rear- Hella HID Driving Lights-Warn ProVantage 4500 synthetic winch-Electric Dump- Gillmore Seat Covers
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post #26 of 28 Old 07-04-2019, 12:41 PM
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I just checked around for pricing on a new secondary clutch.

There has been a part number substitution. The original p/n is shown on your photo below:



The new part number is below:



Dealership pricing below:



Green Farm Parts online price below:



Green Farm Parts price with discount code GTT added( note no sales tax or shipping charges):



I have not priced any of the components that you may or will need to repair this clutch.

You can look online at Green Farm Parts and use discount code GTT to determine pricing on the components.

The bottom line is you can replace the clutch for under $365.00.

In my opinion-if replacing all the components needed is near half the cost of new, I would buy a new clutch if at all possible.

Please keep us updated on your progress.

2012 Gator 825i (new engine at 1700 hours) Power Steering-Sport Exhaust- Deluxe Cab-Heater- Work Lights On Top Front And Rear- Hella HID Driving Lights-Warn ProVantage 4500 synthetic winch-Electric Dump- Gillmore Seat Covers
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post #27 of 28 Old 07-05-2019, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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The local dealer had a button kit and belt in stock so I picked them up. I installed the button kit and reassembled the clutch. It took me longer to make a tool to press it back together than to do the real work.

Started up AND drove just fine! It’s not 100% but it is very drivable! I didn’t install the new belt because I will probably have to replace the clutch before long. Those buttons aren’t going to last given the condition of the cam...

I am very pleased with my $11.42 4x6 gator!!!!! I plan to use it as is for a bit, getting confidence that there are no big problems lurking...then I’ll start replacing body panels, dash, seats, etc.

Thanks for all of your help! This has worked out great.
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post #28 of 28 Old 07-06-2019, 10:04 AM
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Awesome!! Great news, enjoy your Gator

2012 Gator 825i (new engine at 1700 hours) Power Steering-Sport Exhaust- Deluxe Cab-Heater- Work Lights On Top Front And Rear- Hella HID Driving Lights-Warn ProVantage 4500 synthetic winch-Electric Dump- Gillmore Seat Covers
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