HPX 4X4 Diesel runs for a while then dies.... - John Deere Gator Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-12-2019, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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HPX 4X4 Diesel runs for a while then dies....

Howdy, Our HPX 4X4 Diesel starts runs for a while then dies. Hot or cold.
This is easily repeated over and over.
It has new glow plugs, and fuel shut-off solenoid.
Put a test light connected to the hold-in wire (yellow) and the black wire, on the solenoid side of the X3 connector to test voltage to solenoid.
Test light on solid every time it dies. No loss of power to solenoid.
Ran jumper wires direct from battery, to solenoid, and engine runs perfect.
Ran jumper wires from battery to a new accessory relay, to the solenoid, and ran vehicle switch ignition circuit to operate the relay. Dies.
Ran direct wire from ignition switch (yellow) to X3 Solenoid connector. Dies.
I'm really stumped.
Ideas?

T.....
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post #2 of 11 Old 07-12-2019, 02:01 PM
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I'd clean the fuel lines, tank and the inlet to the fuel filter to make certain there isn't any obstructions. Bacteria can grow in diesel fuel and create a lot of problems.

When I suspect a fuel issue, I make certain to verify the fuel is clean and there is unrestricted flow from the fuel line. Clean white bucket makes makes it easy to check for fuel contamination.

A very thorough inspection of the fuel lines, including the pickup tube to make certain there are no small cracks.

Report back what you find.

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post #3 of 11 Old 07-12-2019, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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I've already checked the fuel line on the supply side of the lift pump by drawing fuel with a very large syringe.
Fuel flowed easily with no bubbles.
I've also installed a new lift pump.
What bakes my noodle is that if I run a wire straight from the battery, it runs.
If I run a wire straight from the ignition switch, it dies.
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-13-2019, 12:00 AM
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I'm wondering if your solenoid and relay are similar to the 855/865. There is power to the solenoid, power to a relay terminal for starting, and power to a "stay open" terminal for when the starting switch is let go to run. If I understand your description of the voltages being hot on the proper terminals at the proper time, it leads me to believe the relay block is bad. It sounds like your engine runs by bypassing the momentary starting line to keep it hot all the time. I suspect the stay open coil is the culprit.
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-13-2019, 04:42 AM
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From the OEM Technical Manual, I realize you have been working through some electrical testing. PM me for more information from the Technical Manual.





Good luck

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post #6 of 11 Old 07-16-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies...
I have the TM2195 Jan. '06 Technical manual, Thanks for the reference material
I have worked through appropriate flow of diagnosis, but due to the fact that if I wire the battery direct with jumper wires, it will operate perfect and run all day long.
But if I run a direct wire from the ignition output wire, bypassing all electrical components except for the ignition switch, it will randomly die.
This leads me to believe that the new Fuel shutoff solenoid takes more amps than is being supplied by the Ignition switch alone.
Sounds weird, since most fuel shut-off solenoids don't draw very many amps. Especially the Hold-In coil.....
I am going to run fuel from a separate container, to rule out any fuel tank issues, like maybe a floater that will occasionally block the inlet... Dunno...
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-16-2019, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry Bush View Post
Thanks for the replies...
I have the TM2195 Jan. '06 Technical manual, Thanks for the reference material
I have worked through appropriate flow of diagnosis, but due to the fact that if I wire the battery direct with jumper wires, it will operate perfect and run all day long.
But if I run a direct wire from the ignition output wire, bypassing all electrical components except for the ignition switch, it will randomly die.
This leads me to believe that the new Fuel shutoff solenoid takes more amps than is being supplied by the Ignition switch alone.
Sounds weird, since most fuel shut-off solenoids don't draw very many amps. Especially the Hold-In coil.....
I am going to run fuel from a separate container, to rule out any fuel tank issues, like maybe a floater that will occasionally block the inlet... Dunno...


You’re most welcome!! Please keep us updated on your progress.

I wonder if you can determine the amp draw on the new fuel shutoff solenoid vs the older type or part number?

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post #8 of 11 Old 07-17-2019, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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OK. I was going to wash my hands of the problem, and run a fused wire from the battery + to a lighted rocker switch in the available dash location, to the fuel shut-off solenoid, since a hot wire to the solenoid straight from the Batt+ worked.
Turns out, adding a switch into the circuit, makes it die as well.
Crap.
So I am suspecting that the new fuel shut-off solenoid Hold-In Coil is faulty, and checked resistance from chart in Tech Manual page 350.
Here are the results:
Correct Ohms Resistance from Chart
Black/White = 0.4
Black/Red = 12
Red/White = 12.4
Current Ohms Resistance from Solenoid
Black/White = 0.5
Black/Red = 34
Red/White = 34.4
Looks like high resistance from Hold-In Circuit (Red)
Might explain why full, uninterupted battery voltage is needed to keep running.
Will try another new solenoid.
What do you think?
T....
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post #9 of 11 Old Yesterday, 07:41 AM
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When buying electrical parts that can't be returned, I test them before paying for them. Usually get a strange look when doing so, but have found not all new parts are within specs.

What did the old solenoid measure?

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post #10 of 11 Old Yesterday, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 200mph View Post
When buying electrical parts that can't be returned, I test them before paying for them.......

Great idea!!

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post #11 of 11 Old Yesterday, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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We inherited the problem gator from Parks & Rec. and it came with the new parts in it already, being the John Deere dealer here threw all the new parts in it, and also put a new fuel filter in it, upside down, without the spring below it. So the filter sat on the bottom of the sediment bowl, and kind of spun around and around as the engine ran.
Then returned the Gator with the Bill and the problem not fixed.
We don't use that John Deere dealer anymore.
----------------------
Readings for the Solenoid tests were:
----------------------
Correct Ohms Resistance from Chart
Black/White = 0.4
Black/Red = 12
Red/White = 12.4
----------------------
Current Ohms Resistance from Solenoid
Black/White = 0.5
Black/Red = 34
Red/White = 34.4
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