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post #1 of 10 Old 03-22-2019, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Gator 825i stuck in limp mode

Bought a 2013 825i Gator that had been severely overheated.

Rebuilt the engine.

Runs great at idle but won't rev over 3000rpm with the service light active.

Have switched the ecu, iac controller, tps switch, and camshaft sensor with another machine and these don't seem to be the problem.

Weird thing is that the 4wd switch mostly doesn't work and the left hand signal light is stuck on but it doesn't have the signal light switch.

When I look in at the relay circuit board there is a little green light that is either on constantly or flashes 1 and then 2.

I'm at a bit of a loss now as I don't have access to jd service advisor tool and really don't want to pay the dealer $160/hr to tell me they don't know either.


Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 10 Old 03-23-2019, 09:25 AM
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Any chance the Coolant Temperature Sensor(CTS) or wiring to the sensor could be compromised?

As I was looking at my 825i Technical Manual, a faulty CTS or wiring could throw the machine into “limp home” mode.

See # 6 below



Pricing of CTS



I hate to throw parts at my Gator, so please verify part number and condition/operation of the CTS or wiring before purchase.

As for the 4WD issue, can you provide more information on the problem?

Have you checked the bulbs for corrosion or broken filaments on your “turn signal “ problem?

I have found the OEM Technical Manual to be invaluable when working on my 825i. If you don’t have a copy they can be found on eBay in a CD, Thumb Drive or Paperback formats.

Please report back your findings.

Good luck

2012 Gator 825i (new engine at 1700 hours) Power Steering-Sport Exhaust- Deluxe Cab-Heater- Work Lights On Top Front And Rear- Hella HID Driving Lights-Warn ProVantage 4500 synthetic winch-Electric Dump- Gillmore Seat Covers
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post #3 of 10 Old 03-23-2019, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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The CTS was buggered and I replaced it with a new one. It made the gauge read accurately but didn't solve the limp issue.
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post #4 of 10 Old 03-23-2019, 08:52 PM
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You will need to clear the code, it cuts out the number 3 coil so it don't fire, and shuts off fuel so you can limp home ,because you were trying to drive it when temp was too hot. clear code and bleed system of any air, on top of engine. you can try a automotive decoder but will need to go to a dealer, less than 15 min. job. all those parts that were put on not causing it . Did you reprogram the gator when you install a ECU. It has to know the software . and ecu will give output signal to injectors or coil ,these are set up just like your cars and pickups, to protect the engine ,check engine light. yes the little green light is on circuit board is flashing indicating a code or codes . if no code it will be on solid.
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post #5 of 10 Old 03-24-2019, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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Can I clear the codes by unhooking the battery?
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-24-2019, 08:41 AM
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no will need hooked up and cleared ,plus they will be able to check other sensors and test dash temp gauge , run fan relay, check crank sensor, cam senor. with the change of ECU it probably has O2 senor code .
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-24-2019, 09:46 AM
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Gator 825i stuck in limp mode

Quote:
Originally Posted by jd772 View Post
no will need hooked up and cleared ,plus they will be able to check other sensors and test dash temp gauge , run fan relay, check crank sensor, cam senor. with the change of ECU it probably has O2 senor code .


Thanks for the help @jd772, great information to know.

2012 Gator 825i (new engine at 1700 hours) Power Steering-Sport Exhaust- Deluxe Cab-Heater- Work Lights On Top Front And Rear- Hella HID Driving Lights-Warn ProVantage 4500 synthetic winch-Electric Dump- Gillmore Seat Covers
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-24-2019, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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So if engine is overheated and wrecks coolant temp sensor it will throw it into limp mode.
Am I correct that even if a new CTS is installed, the limp mode will not be cleared until it is hooked up to jd service advisor?
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-24-2019, 07:30 PM
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That should be right, if you have a CTS go bad it will send signal to ECU. either a voltage problem or ground. If the engine overheats it will not wreck the CTS, If the sensor gets bad or have seen wires broke at connector. once the key is cycled off it is stored in memory. Try when you turn the key in the on position cycle the 4wd switch 3 times real fast on off , watch the MIL light it will flash. see if all is well it will flash on then off then on, then go out and remain off.
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post #10 of 10 Old 04-16-2019, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Problem ended up being a loose connector at the crankshaft position sensor. Ended up taking it to JD to have the codes pulled.
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