855D, 835, 865 (maybe others) Front End Alignment - John Deere Gator Forums
Gator Wheel and Tire Discussion For discussion of all things related to John Deere Gator wheels and tires.

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-17-2019, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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855D, 835, 865 (maybe others) Front End Alignment

For those who wish to get maximum wear out of your tires, alignment is perhaps more important than your car. Misalignment results in significant tire scrubbing. For the knobbies at lower pressures, it's more aggressive and quicker than harder rubber at higher pressures. If you look at your tech manual, it will likely say 4 plus or minus 3 mm. That means some toe in, never toe out. That's a good thing as it helps keep the rig driving straight. The problem is throwing chalk marks on the floor, i.e. follow the alignment instructions won't typically dial you in like a calibrated system will do. I recommend the toe-in get set by a real computer and alignment rack. Setting for around 2 degrees (common in newer autos) works great for me, especially with the street tire/rim configurations I usually use. I remember the first time the tech put the sensors on all the wheels and plugged in the JD distances, he just said "Why didn't you tell me Geo Metro?". It specs around 2 degrees too. The other aspect of toe-in likely relates to the suspension geometry. The tech told me that normal shock/spring loading tends to momentarily decrease toe in which returns to normal. It's just important to never have toe out.

I also noted some early signs of tire scrubbing on my new 865R that hasn't been run over tree stumps, etc. yet. Sure enough, it was so far out of alignment, the sensors were off scale. So any new rig's tires should be looked at carefully in the first month. Even though I have power steering on the 855D/865R, I can feel the difference in aligned vs. misaligned. You won't know the difference until you experience both situations. It doesn't necessarily mean you pull one way or the other. Both wheels out of alignment the same positive or negative amount can still mean the rig drives straight. Usually you get pull because you only went way to fast over one stump. Les Schwab and $35 and I'm good to go.
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-18-2019, 07:39 AM
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Did they only just adjust toe-in?

How was camber and caster?.. Can they even be adjusted?

Thanks for documenting.

2012 JD855D OPS Black Poly Roof, Deluxe Cargo Box, Front and Rear Protection, Power Lift, Front Hood Rack, Rear Screen (homemade), 800 Watt Inverter, 2500lb Winch installed in cargo bed, Front and Rear LED auxiliary lighting (4" square 27 watt), Front and Rear CV Guards, Koplin Side Mirrors

Last edited by 200mph; 06-18-2019 at 02:17 PM.
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-18-2019, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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You can only adjust toe-in up front and camber in the rear. If you think of it, adjusting the spring a notch will affect camber. I have a slight difference on camber up front which doesn't amount to much. However, I didn't want to have one shock/spring stiffer than the other as that creates other issues.
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-22-2019, 12:44 PM
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I think one of the most overlooked things is tire pressure - but of course you are are spot on with the toe-in. My 'ol land cruiser with tall, medium swampers, a locker in the rear and a gov lock in the front, while driving a straight road would be "ratcheting" from the rear locker differential. It only took a few PSI different between the rears to make this happen. Combine the fronts in 4wd and whoa. About uncontrollable on gravel. Ice would about be a death sentence. So I check the pressures REGULARLY. In addition, it you are still having handling problems and the pressures are spot on then you need to take a tape measure around the tires and compare the difference. You just might find that you need to have a slight different tire pressure, side to side, so the inflated tires are the same diameter.

I learned this from a true 4wd 'cruiser and it applied just as much to a our JD 500 Buck and a little less the 6x4 with the diff lock on.
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post #5 of 8 Old 06-23-2019, 11:47 AM
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Sadly my local alignment shops equipment can not accommodate UTVís or so they say?

2012 Gator 825i (new engine at 1700 hours) Power Steering-Sport Exhaust- Deluxe Cab-Heater- Work Lights On Top Front And Rear- Hella HID Driving Lights-Warn ProVantage 4500 synthetic winch-Electric Dump- Gillmore Seat Covers
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post #6 of 8 Old 06-24-2019, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Bummer. All I know is the local Les Schwab rack rails are close enough to safely drive onto. That and they do all sorts of UTVs because that's what we have out here in the sticks.
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post #7 of 8 Old 06-24-2019, 11:23 AM
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I know right, I canít believe the shops here in Western Wyoming do not have the correct equipment, as we too are in the sticks and sagebrush

2012 Gator 825i (new engine at 1700 hours) Power Steering-Sport Exhaust- Deluxe Cab-Heater- Work Lights On Top Front And Rear- Hella HID Driving Lights-Warn ProVantage 4500 synthetic winch-Electric Dump- Gillmore Seat Covers
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post #8 of 8 Old 06-24-2019, 11:56 AM
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Must be an issue with new ones. Our old one with 6,000+ miles has even tread wear all around...
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