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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a barn find 2005 Gator 4x2 TS. The original motor blew, and they replaced it with a Vanguard 18hp motor. The guy I bought it from absolutely destroyed the wiring. He also mounted the engine crooked, so it was shredding belts. But I'm not totally sure he has the right clutch to begin with. I have a couple of questions in general.

- do Bentley type manuals exist for gators? I'm specifically looking for a full wiring diagram. Has anyone had success calling JD for the diagrams?

- has anyone ever seen this engine used in a gator that could guide me to the correct clutch?

- I'm not satisfied with the mounting holes drilled, has anyone seen a DIY bracket/adapter for the engine? I'd like something I could move around to correctly align the assembled engine.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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I've done a re-engine on my XUV-550 removing the stock Briggs and replacing it with a Honda about 20% more powerful. I have a good comprehension of the pitfalls when something is re-engined.

As far as I know there are no service manuals other than those from Deere. There are a couple companies I found with a quick Google search that offer re-engine packages for some Gators. You could look into them or at least contact them to see how willing they are to help with misc. parts and brackets.

Your primary clutch is probably made by Team Industries. It might be one of their aftermarket Rapid Response clutches or it may have a Deere part number. In either case there is a lot you can do to tune it to match your current setup. But as you already know. Getting it properly aligned is critical for belt life.

If your wiring has been butchered I'd consider three options. One you get the diagrams and try to bring it back to something closer to factory. Two, just deal with situations as they come up. And finally... rip it all out and re-wire to your current needs. Re-wiring may sound drastic but it's a very simple machine so it might be simpler than you think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I appreciate the response. I was able to find a tech manual (tm1518), so I plan on just building the wiring harness back out. I'm not all too worried about the clutch, but it's encouraging to hear that they are adaptable.

I'll keep the thread posted on how I end up doing things.

One more thing, I'm really new to the john Deere scene, what would be the best way to source misc parts? Like, I'm missing the Diff lock light bulb socket, my dash mounting tabs are broken off, so I'd like to get a new dash. The dash panel itself is cometely missing. There are a lot of little things I'd like to replace, but I haven't found a good source for parts (new or used.)
 

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There are a couple dealers that sell Deere parts online for a modest discount. Some generic electrical items like switches and lights can be online. There are several threads on this and the other forum where people have posted where they've found the best deals.
 

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Sounds like you have a start on the wiring issue.

The fact that there is a clutch on the engine means that you don't have to start searching for a clutch that will fit the engine. That could have been a hurdle. With the clutch in place on the engine, do what you have to do to get proper pulley to pulley alignment. Then find a belt that is the right width to be about .030" or so narrower than the fully open primary clutch and be the right length to not be tight on the center bearing of the primary clutch, but not so loose that the clutch has to close up very far to engage the belt. If the replacement engine is in the same position as determined by the location of the engine output shaft, as the original engine, the original belt length should be fine. it probably will be the same width as the original belt also.

Once the clutches are properly aligned and a belt is fitted properly, it might take a little experimenting with springs and if the primary clutch won't open and close smoothly, it may need some attention.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Sounds like you have a start on the wiring issue.

The fact that there is a clutch on the engine means that you don't have to start searching for a clutch that will fit the engine. That could have been a hurdle. With the clutch in place on the engine, do what you have to do to get proper pulley to pulley alignment. Then find a belt that is the right width to be about .030" or so narrower than the fully open primary clutch and be the right length to not be tight on the center bearing of the primary clutch, but not so loose that the clutch has to close up very far to engage the belt. If the replacement engine is in the same position as determined by the location of the engine output shaft, as the original engine, the original belt length should be fine. it probably will be the same width as the original belt also.

Once the clutches are properly aligned and a belt is fitted properly, it might take a little experimenting with springs and if the primary clutch won't open and close smoothly, it may need some attention.

Hope this helps.
It does help! Thank you.

I have run into a little bit of a problem though. I believe I found the wrong manual. The wiring diagrams are a little bit off. I have a fuse box that is mounted under the hood, on the drivers side. But I can't find any diagrams that show the fuse box. Among other issues, it says the wires running to my headlights should be yellow, when in fact they are red (I don't care about the color, just pointing out that something is a little bit off).

It's been interesting find out what they guy before me did. he didn't even have the solenoid wired up, he had been jumping it with a screw driver.

Which brings me to another question, he put in an aftermarket ignition switch (maybe it came with the engine?) so he cut the wires and just hooked them onto the terminals on the ignition. Does anyone know where I can find the connector to the original ignition switch?
For reference:

Gator serial - W04X2SD005499.

Vanguard - Model: 356447 Type: 0213B1 Code: 08081811

Thanks again for the help, folks.

EDIT: For search reference, part number on the ignition switch: TCA22740 and the ignition switch terminal connector: 57M9199

Part number for the fuse box: AM108846
 

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At some point you may have to decide if it's easier to try and figure out how the previous person butchered it or just rip out the wiring and do it fresh yourself. One benefit of doing it yourself is you can use locally available parts and not have to find connectors specific to what Deere used. If you can get it back to original though then you can benefit from the manual and wiring diagram for future trouble shooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks again guys. Minor update. I called John Deere in hopes to find the correct manual, and they said the tech manual I need for my model is TM2239.

For search reference:

2005 Gator TS 4x2
Serial: W04X2SD005499
Technical manual: TM2239
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Would anyone happen to have or know where I can get TM2239? these things are expensive! I would love it in PDF. I've seen a couple of dubious sites that have it in PDF for $40, but I'm not sure I trust them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A couple of updates.

I pretty much gutted everything and cleaned up the frame, and painted it. I was able to salvage the original harness by getting a lot of the connectors from John Deere.

I also added a differential light switch that lights up when the diff lock is engaged. Just like the TH does.

The problem I am running into now, is the engine can't move far enough towards the side of the gator to align the clutches without hitting one of the brake rods. I was planning on cutting it, and welding another piece in so it bends around the engine.

Another hurdle is trying to find the correct belt. JD calls for a belt width of 31.6±0.8mm(1.244±0.03in.) and a belt effective length of 1374.7±3.2mm(54.122±0.126in.) which M150046 is pretty much correct. Its just a matter of having the room to move the engine forward or backward enough to get the correct tension.

The clutch is made by a Canadian company called CVTech. I emailed them to get a blown out diagram, and maybe a parts list but I haven't heard from them unfortunately.

Oh well, it's coming together slowly.
 

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At some point you may have to decide if it's easier to try and figure out how the previous person butchered it or just rip out the wiring and do it fresh yourself. One benefit of doing it yourself is you can use locally available parts and not have to find connectors specific to what Deere used. If you can get it back to original though then you can benefit from the manual and wiring diagram for future trouble shooting.
Hi there, any recommendations on where I can find the wiring diagram to purchase or download?
 

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The Gatorfactory service manuals are quite complete with wiring schematics and information.
 

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Mcamp, Any JD dealer can provide a copy of the technical manual which has the wiring diagrams... for a fee of course.
 
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