I have been given a gator TS 4x2 that is in really slick condition except for the motor.It has the Kawasaki FE290D engine that has a broke rod. Machine has almost 4000 hours and I am wanting to repower. Has anyone done this and what did you use. I have seen the replacements from smallenginewarehouse, but was told the B&S1450 intek series they advertise wont fit. They show a generac gn410 that supposedly fits, but it has an extra pulley on the flywheel side and they cant tell me what it is for. Would like a good B&S or Kohler, but unsure what fits and what clutch I would need since mine has tapered shaft. any ideas?
'05 gator TS 4x2
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It depends on what you want to do with it but dane can tell you all about this.
Iam in a sort of similar predicament.
What I would do is one of 2 things
get a straight shaft engine and either get a clutch from venom or get an adapter to a 30mm 1:10 and use a comet clutch.
The 102c uses a 1 1/4 belt if iam correct.
Now I must say I don't know what the original taper is but I do remember john deere using comet clutches at some point so it might already be a 30mm 1:10 taper
Whatever you do get a briggs or a honda engine.
You get what you pay for here and both are really easy to maintain.
Also go for a nice power upgrade and get an engine that has at least 15/25% more power as these are pretty underpowered from factory.
You can always go for briggs vanguard with 14 or 16hp
Iam in a sort of similar predicament.
What I would do is one of 2 things
get a straight shaft engine and either get a clutch from venom or get an adapter to a 30mm 1:10 and use a comet clutch.
The 102c uses a 1 1/4 belt if iam correct.
Now I must say I don't know what the original taper is but I do remember john deere using comet clutches at some point so it might already be a 30mm 1:10 taper
Whatever you do get a briggs or a honda engine.
You get what you pay for here and both are really easy to maintain.
Also go for a nice power upgrade and get an engine that has at least 15/25% more power as these are pretty underpowered from factory.
You can always go for briggs vanguard with 14 or 16hp
Thank you for the reply! I am thinking b&s repower. This being said, do you know what shaft length and size should I be looking for and I assume just get the comet clutch for that size shaft? Is there any b&s motors that use the same throttle linkage hook up or am I looking at new cables also. If it's just modifying brackets, not afraid to do that!
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Not sure how much you're trying to spend but, we have done a few Kawasaki FJ400 swaps. Just putting the newer TS Gator engine in the older model. Runs about $1300. You have to modify the exhaust slightly and replace the upper brace. Its about a 30-40% HP increase.
Clutch, cables, etc are interchangable.
Clutch, cables, etc are interchangable.
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In the end a cheaper option because of the clutch.
But personally I would stay away from kawasaki and go to venom and ask for a "golf cart clutch" as dane said in the topic about the 550.
Look it up and it explains a few things.
Kawasaki is a bit like beating a dead horse.
We can not get them to run as good as a briggs and they are finnicky.
I almost never have to adjust a briggs engine when it comes to the carb and the kawasaki likes to be just perfect or wanders off sometimes
the kawasaki has for some reason more problems with valvetrain aswell.
this is just from what I've seen come into the shop so experiences may vary.
Being a john deere mech i can't say anything about honda as far as maintenance but I know they're good aswell.
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Here in AZ we have 1,000's of TX Turf Gators running at all the golf courses runnings FJ400's with very few issues.
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Also understandable because of different useage and maintenance standards.
Just sharing my experiences with them.
But yes our gators see more hard farmwork and less maintenance in general.
Israelis can destroy a new gator in under 2 years.
Americans know more about maintenance
Just sharing my experiences with them.
But yes our gators see more hard farmwork and less maintenance in general.
Israelis can destroy a new gator in under 2 years.
Americans know more about maintenance
If you do not have a machine shop and metal fabricating skills & tools I would stick with the factory engine. Replace with a new engine of the same exact model number or overhaul the engine you've got. It is the most predictable path as engine repair/rebuild is often done and shouldn't have any surprises.
Next on the level of risk and difficulty is getting a repower kit from Small Engine Warehouse. You might have to do some "tweeking" but their kit should get you very close and spare you the major problems.
Most difficult would be for you to pick an engine and make it work (that's what I did). I only recommend this if you are good at solving problems and handy working with metal. You should look at EVERYTHING when considering a new engine. Look at it's overall dimensions to make sure it will fit into the space. Double check the shaft profile the engine shaft or plan on having to also replace your primary clutch. Look at the exhaust. Are you capable of fabricating a new exhaust system? Then there are the control linkages for the throttle and choke. And the list goes on... Almost any problem can be overcome but you should be prepared for it to be a project. Here is a brief view into some of the problems I had with my engine swap.
Next on the level of risk and difficulty is getting a repower kit from Small Engine Warehouse. You might have to do some "tweeking" but their kit should get you very close and spare you the major problems.
Most difficult would be for you to pick an engine and make it work (that's what I did). I only recommend this if you are good at solving problems and handy working with metal. You should look at EVERYTHING when considering a new engine. Look at it's overall dimensions to make sure it will fit into the space. Double check the shaft profile the engine shaft or plan on having to also replace your primary clutch. Look at the exhaust. Are you capable of fabricating a new exhaust system? Then there are the control linkages for the throttle and choke. And the list goes on... Almost any problem can be overcome but you should be prepared for it to be a project. Here is a brief view into some of the problems I had with my engine swap.
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Or get a 550 engine and maybe a 550 clutch.
About a 90% increase in hp.
Might seem overkill but you just need to place the engine and sort out the mounting holes.
Also the exhaust might need to be fabricated or swapped from a 550 and altered
The rest is pretty much plug and play.
In short the possibilities are endless and just depend on your skillset
About a 90% increase in hp.
Might seem overkill but you just need to place the engine and sort out the mounting holes.
Also the exhaust might need to be fabricated or swapped from a 550 and altered
The rest is pretty much plug and play.
In short the possibilities are endless and just depend on your skillset
Hey Bdune , eBay has rebuilt short blocks for around $750.00 . Check it out . With that all you have to do is put the cooling tins ,carb coil ,and head from your not working engine . You should send out your head for
At least a check for a surface plane on the head gasket surface and a valve job and head service . Then you’ll have an all original motor and not have to screw around adapting anything . I’m gonna get on eBay right now and double check the listing and send you the eBay item number good luck .
At least a check for a surface plane on the head gasket surface and a valve job and head service . Then you’ll have an all original motor and not have to screw around adapting anything . I’m gonna get on eBay right now and double check the listing and send you the eBay item number good luck .
The item # is. 253930910390 . There is also a complete remanded long block for about the same price.
Just under $ 800 plus shipping . Not sure on shipping .going back on to get exact costs and item # for the long block . The most important thing when ordering these motors is giving the whole exact number from the sticker on the main tin cover that goes over the flywheel . Because golf carts use a variant of the fe 290d that is not the right one .
Just under $ 800 plus shipping . Not sure on shipping .going back on to get exact costs and item # for the long block . The most important thing when ordering these motors is giving the whole exact number from the sticker on the main tin cover that goes over the flywheel . Because golf carts use a variant of the fe 290d that is not the right one .
4x2 ts repower
Thanks for all the replies and info. I think I am going to do a simple swap with the generac kit from SEW. Anyone have any insight on generac engines as far as performance and durability. Also the kit includes all brackets and cables and belts for the swap and the motor uses an automotive type alternator which is included. The old motor has a cracked block, a deeply gouged crank and cylinder. Info shows it to be 9-10 hp with 20mph clutch and the generac claims 14-15hp with 30mph comet clutch. Any insight on generac?
Thanks for all the replies and info. I think I am going to do a simple swap with the generac kit from SEW. Anyone have any insight on generac engines as far as performance and durability. Also the kit includes all brackets and cables and belts for the swap and the motor uses an automotive type alternator which is included. The old motor has a cracked block, a deeply gouged crank and cylinder. Info shows it to be 9-10 hp with 20mph clutch and the generac claims 14-15hp with 30mph comet clutch. Any insight on generac?
How did you ever make it wqith your situation? I am in the same scenario as we speak. Thanks
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