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Discussion Starter #1
So as i have nothing to do at home right now I rebuilt my Kawasaki FD620D Engine. Runs like a champ now, idling, etc. Went for a ride to see how it did top end and it started out fine but then seemed to lose power. Stopped, put in neutral, revved the engine and plenty of consistent power. Clutch on transmission not hot at all, it was recently replaced. New Belt. The Primary Clutch on engine was very hot though. the inside portion which is fixed. The outside portion seems to come in and out just fine depending on engine RPM. How do you diagnose a bad primary clutch? I took it completely apart, cleaned everything and dry lubed everything per direction on another forum. $600 for a new clutch is pretty steep, especially if that is not the issue. Suggestions?
 

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You seem to focus on your clutches as the culprit, but when you said "loses power" I immediately thought engine. If your loss of speed or pulling power is attributable to the clutches or belt you would typically hear your engine rev abnormally without a corresponding speed or torque increase. Is that what's happening? If yes, then you should focus on the drivetrain. If the engine simply bogs down you're likely looking at a problem with the engine. If it loses power after warming up you may have a coolant problem and your engine is on the verge of seizing. Hope that's not the case, but just as a precaution, burp the crap out of your cooling system. As a further check, feel the return hose to the radiator to make sure you're getting circulation. It should be warm after a couple minutes running. These cooling systems are notoriously fussy about burping. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
could definetly be the cooling as I just rebuilt engine. Just assumed coolant would flow to engine. Any reference on how to burp the coolant?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So everything is peachy, starts fine, runs fine, but then I go out on the road at full speed for about 2 blocks then it just kinda slows down. I stop, put in neutral and it revs up like a champ. The primary clutch seems to move in and out but the non-moveable part of the clutch is super hot. This is an old gator and it has never been replaced. The sides are not perfectly smooth as it seems like belts have worn into it over the year. Might be a but glossy with no cross hatch left so wondering if belt is slipping as the clutch is bad. Coolant can also be an issue. Had this same problem before I rebuilt the engine to a lesser degree. When rebuilding engine, I noticed the thermostat was broken and installed a new one. New water pump as well. Didn't even cross my mind to see if coolant is getting to engine and will look at that tomorrow. Just need to sort out haow to actually burp the cooling system. Makes sense because if dry there would be nothing for the pump to push.
 

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There's a bleed plug just below each head. Burp these first, then disconnect the hose coming off the WP which runs to the rear head. When you can see coolant flow from the head you should be burped and good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK I bled the bad boy, burped the two piston plugs, removed the small hose connecting the Water Pump to the Rear Piston and once the thermostat opened up coolant was flowing thru. In the process I discovered that one of my pistons is not firing. It is the one closest to the seats. I took off the plug and no effect to the engine running. It idles fine on one piston but that may be my lack of power. How best to troubleshoot? I was thinking I could switch the coils and see if it was a coil but I think it is more likely a connection where you plug the wiring harness together. Recommendations? I am 99% sure it is now an electrical issue.
 

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component swap to see if the results remain same or chase the part swap, can be a great troubleshooting technique to uncover root cause. Coil swap would be a good suggestion. If the dead cylinder begins to work and good cylinder is no longer firing, it would be an indication it's coil related. Typically it is suggested to swap parts back again to make certain results continue as anticipated. Sometimes the assembly reassembly is the cause, so multiple swaps with consistent result is a proven technique.

Can also swap spark plugs.

Is the nonfiring spark plug wet from gas?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Plug is not saturated but had visible evidence of gas, they are also new and gapped correctly. Swapped coil and both coils fired fine on the cylinder at the rear (Cylinder #2) and neither fired on the front cylinder (Cylinder #1). Tested for continuity from Push on Terminal at coil past the 2 prong plug connector and there was continuity. The wires to that coil are Yellow with White Line and Black with Yellow Line. In looking at thew wiring diagram the Y/W wire goes to something called a Thermo Lamp. The B/Y wire goes to the Igniter. When I serviced the engine the Stator Coil looked visibly fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Been searching around the internet for answers and came across this. KAWASAKI 21119-2157 John deere AM105574 ignitor. They says this usually addresses issues with the Kawasaki VTwin when only 1 cylinder is firing. Anyway to test the igniter instead of shelling out $225 first?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
113 Ohms on one bank and 111 Ohms on secondary bank. Both resistances are within the 85-270 ohm range. So pulsar coil probably good right?
 

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I don't believe you've positively ID it as a pulsar coil just yet. It's very possible the spark plug is bad. I'd swap plugs to see the results before shelling out good money on the pulsar.

Just because they are new plugs, doesn't mean they are good. I've experienced bad new plugs over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Swapped plugs still same issue. I am getting spark off of Cylinder #1 as i took out the plug, started with only Cylinder #1 and held the plug against the engine block. I have good compression and I know it is getting fuel. Can you have a weak spark? I also read somewhere before the spark plug can be to small and not reaching into cylinder far enough. I have the Champion CJ14 in there right now.now
 

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Yes you can have week spark and or spark taking a different path other than the electrode. Plug wires can have cracks, porcelain cracks, spark arcing between plug boot and porcelain, etc.... As engine loads increase the ignition system becomes stressed and electricity will take the path of least resistance. It's generally good practice to coat the inside of the spark boot with dielectric grease.

Can't comment on CJ14 plug. Since you stated the plugs are new, how did you purchase them? IE: I don't understand why you're questioning if they are correct ones or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just replaced with NGK BMR4A which I found searching online for this engine, no change. Yes I have dielectric grease in boots. Last time I changed plugs they were out of the NGK but cross referenced to champion. Thought it could have been a bad cross reference. New coils are $13.25 each, a stator assembly pickups are $62.52 and the 21119-2157 Igniter is $190.00. I hate just switching parts out but I cannot sort out what is the issue. Any more troubleshooting to perform?
 

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Sounds like you might have to shell out the big bucks for the igniter and keep your fingers crossed you were diligent in your troubleshooting effort.

Too bad you don't have a neighbor/friend with similar machine where the part could be swapped to verify.

ADDED IN EDIT
Found this thread that seemed to have similar test results as yours.

Similar troubleshooting results
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Received and installed the new igniter today and same issue. Not running on one cylinder. Before ordering new coils and pulsar pickup I scoured the internet. There is a frequent mention of a Time Delay Module, does this Gator have one and do you know where it is located. Another thing I came across was a possible bad relay that is located just below the igniter. Thoughts? I am pretty sure the coils and the pulsar are good as I swapped coils between cylinders and the pulsar tested at correct ohms.
 

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Do you have an inline spark plug tester or a timing light? Basically anything that could verify if the spark is verified while running.

Inline Spark Plug Tester

Have you done a compression test? What are the pressure readings?

Buy the manual, so you can see first hand what you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So checked the compression and it was zero on that cylinder. Put a cap full of oil in in and still zero. New pistons and new rings. No cracks in block. Reground the valve seats. So surprised. But for no compression I must have a leak at the gasket or valves, right?
 
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