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New to gators, but not to wrenching. This old girl needs some help but I like breathing back life into old tired machinery.

REALLY hard to shift (as in, hit neutral before coming to a stop or she's not shifting). So, started with the clutch. Pulled it today and it looks like a TEAM clutch was installed over the years. Not sure I can improve this one with the corrosion, so may reach out to the resident clutch expert here on the forum for some work or an exchange...





 

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All gators come with team clutches instead of the older comet clutches.
Comet whent out of bussiness years and years ago.
Anyway the sheaves dont look half bad, thing iam most interested are the 3 rollers that i cant see in the picture.
If they have flat spots its time for a rebuild kit and thats what fails the fastest most of the times.
Also check for too much side to side wobble.

Anyway us j.d. mechanics dont deal with servicing clutches outside of the "star" rebuild kit, id consider that a specialist job.
As far as i heard jd clutch doc makes them run better than jd
 

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Like x~x mentioned, this is the factory installed clutch.

You'll likely need some special tools to fix this correctly. JD dealer service departments simply replace the entire primary clutch when this problem presents itself. Do this:

1. Remove those 6 bolts on the outer clutch face. Loosen and remove them evenly. Take notice of the 'X' alignment marks on the cover and clutch components.

2. Remove the cover, clutch spring, and plastic collar inside the spring.

3. With the clutch sitting on the back of it's inner sheave on your bench, test movement of the outer clutch sheave up and down. It should move easily through the entire range. When raised the highest(widest) position and released, it should drop to the lowest(narrowest) position smoothly and instantly. If it does not, (and it likely will not with what you are describing) it will need disassembled further and adjusted/modified for free motion. I can try to post some pics if it would help. I've modified dozens and dozens of these clutches to resolve hard shifting and failure to properly return to neutral.

What kind of mileage is on the machine?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Like x~x mentioned, this is the factory installed clutch.

You'll likely need some special tools to fix this correctly. JD dealer service departments simply replace the entire primary clutch when this problem presents itself. Do this:

1. Remove those 6 bolts on the outer clutch face. Loosen and remove them evenly. Take notice of the 'X' alignment marks on the cover and clutch components.

2. Remove the cover, clutch spring, and plastic collar inside the spring.

3. With the clutch sitting on the back of it's inner sheave on your bench, test movement of the outer clutch sheave up and down. It should move easily through the entire range. When raised the highest(widest) position and released, it should drop to the lowest(narrowest) position smoothly and instantly. If it does not, (and it likely will not with what you are describing) it will need disassembled further and adjusted/modified for free motion. I can try to post some pics if it would help. I've modified dozens and dozens of these clutches to resolve hard shifting and failure to properly return to neutral.

What kind of mileage is on the machine?
The dash says over 20k miles, but the seller said that he thought it was an eBay dash. No way of knowing really. The clutch will fall, but has some "catches" sometimes due to the nicks and wear on the shaft. I took a scotch brite pad to it but I'm sure it needs something better. I DID remove the top and the spring, but wasn't sure how to disassemble further and my tech manual doesn't go into details. I'll look for a service manual, but would welcome any input/pics/advice you have. Would really like to get this old girl shifting smooth.

Thanks!
 

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If that clutch has anywhere close to that mileage on it, it might be time to replace it. However Deere is pretty fond of these at $462.

I see the manufacture date on yours is November 2012, so it was likely replaced once already under warranty.

To disassemble further, you will need some clutch tools. There is still more you can try without disassembly. In your last pic, take notice of the black circular pucks. The outer clutch sheave moves against these as it rises and falls. Start with the outer clutch sheave all the way down. Use a piece of fine steel wool to clean up the machined aluminum wall that these pucks ride against. Using the steel wool polish as much of the exposed surface as you can. Then raise the outer sheave so the clutch is in it's widest position. Again use the steel wool to clean/polish the lower surface of the same machined aluminum wall. See if that smooths out the outer clutch sheave motion. Do not be temped to try a lubricant on the pucks. If that gets it moving freely through the entire travel without catching, bolt it back together and give it a test run. Let us know how it goes.
 

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Yeah i was going to show you what key you need to open the clutch but we got bombed by hamas today so i needed to pick up my kid and fix my bombshelter door aswell so didnt have much time for work let alone pictures.

Tomorrow is a new day
 

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ט×[emoji769 said:
×� ×רו×למ×;96351]Yeah i was going to show you what key you need to open the clutch but we got bombed by hamas today so i needed to pick up my kid and fix my bombshelter door aswell so didnt have much time for work let alone pictures.

Tomorrow is a new day


Stay safe ....
 

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ט×[emoji769 said:
×� ×רו×למ×;96351]Yeah i was going to show you what key you need to open the clutch but we got bombed by hamas today so i needed to pick up my kid and fix my bombshelter door aswell so didnt have much time for work let alone pictures.

Tomorrow is a new day


Stay safe ....
 

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From what I can see of it, that appears to be a rebuildable clutch. A new one would cost twice as much as having it refurbished.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well everyone, I received my clutch back from Clutch Doc and it's definitely better. (Thanks for that!). However, even with a new belt it's still squeaking and chirping at very slow speeds and idle. Maybe the secondary clutch needs a little attention as well, but I'll tackle the issues one at a time.

Thanks all! Progress!
 

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Did you follow any belt break in procedures?
———————————————

CVT Belt Installation/Break-in and CVT Maintenance

JD Clutch Doc suggests you consider replacing the CVT belt when you reinstall your “hand fit” clutch, regardless of age or use on your old belt. The reason for this, your primary clutch has been sticking which has caused the belt to wear abnormally.

OEM CVT belts can be purchased through your dealer or online from Amazon, Green Part Store or Green Farm Parts.*

If you choose to purchase an aftermarket CVT belt, we recommend Gates products. They can be ordered through Amazon or often available at your local auto parts store.

Gates CVT belt application chart link below:

https://www.gates.com/us/en/ymm/search/landing *

To ensure optimal operation of newly installed belts, the belt should be first scrubbed hot soapy water (Dawn) and rinsed with hot water then left to air dry. This will remove moulding release agents used in the manufacturing process.

Additionally the CVT sheaves must be cleaned of all old belt residue, glazing, and oils.

Start by using hot soapy water, non chlorinated brake cleaner or alcohol with a mild abrasive such as Scotch Brite Pad or Steel Wool. When cleaning with an abrasive, start carefully from the clutch shaft outward to the edge of sheave, working around the entire face of the sheave.

***Exercise caution not to damage the machined grooves on the face of the sheave, when using an abrasive cleaner.***

Follow up by cleaning the surfaces thoroughly again with hot soapy water, non chlorinated brake cleaner or alcohol until all impurities have been removed. Finally blow out the clutch’s with a air compressor.

**Cleaning the sheave surface until all contaminates have been removed is vital to future belt and CVT operation. If any particles remain, belt slip and a noticeable drop in vehicle performance can occur.**

Periodically throughout the year clutch’s should be blown out with an air compressor, to help remove dust and debris. If the clutch sheaves show excess oil or contaminants, clean the sheaves as described above. **Don’t forget to blow out CVT intake and/or CVT outlet tubing and filters if any.**
*
As a reminder most modern CVT clutch’s are designed to be operated dry without any lubricants.

Never use a dressing on the belt, as this will contaminate your clutch’s.

If a belt is to be removed and reinstalled, it is highly recommended that the belt is scrubbed with hot soapy water (Dawn), rinsed with hot water, left to air dry, then reinstalled in the same direction as before to match belt wear profile to contact with the corresponding sheave profile.
*
Most experts claim CVT belts are not directionally biased, however we recommend installing them with the label lettering facing toward the user to keep belt reinstallation consistent.

Recommend Belt Installation*


*********************************
Clean Sheave Plates



Dirty Sheave Plates*

*
**Dirty Sheave Plates should be cleaned with a mild abrasive to remove rubber and other wear contaminates as shown above by dirty Sheave. Dark wear patterns must be removed from the surface then cleaned off with hot soapy water,non chlorinated brake cleaner or alcohol to remove fine particulates. Finally blow out the clutch’s with an air compressor.**

New Belt Break In Process:

New CVT drive belts require a break-in period of at minimum 30 Miles to maximize belt life and performance. The goal of the break-in period is to properly wear in the belt to match the sheaves before applying maximum engine torque.

By conservatively running through the entire shift range, proper belt contact over the entire sheave/belt contact path is optimized to eliminate belt slippage and drastically increase the belt’s lifespan.
*
Follow the following guidelines to accomplish proper Belt-Break in:

•Vary vehicle speed and engine RPM to shift belt through normal operational range.
•Do not exceed ¾ throttle within the first 30 miles of installation.
•Stop engine and allow belt to cool down every 15 minutes of use.
*
During break in period, the following activities SHOULD BE AVOIDED:

•Aggressive Acceleration or ‘Jerky’ throttle movements at low speeds.
•Holding engine/vehicle speed constant for extended time periods.
•Pulling Heavy Loads.
•Long run times without complete CVT/belt cool down.

By following the break-in process carefully, the belt surface will wear in to match the individual CVT sheaves to maximize grip performance and dramatically reduce heat, glazing, and future wear.

As a reminder always use low gear when climbing a hill, pulling or hauling a load, transversing rocky terrain, starting on an incline, ruts, etc. The key here is, you do not want to slip or glaze the belt, this will cause premature belt failure.

Finally, do not leave the Gator in gear while stopped, such as when opening a gate this will create a flat spot on the belt overtime again leading to belt failure.

Thank you for reading,

Brad and Doc
JD Clutch Doc
[email protected]

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- [ ]
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Great info! Thank you! The owner put a new belt on literally a week before I bought it, but I'll see about a new one and doing some of what you recommend above.

You guys were great to work with!

Wade
 
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