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Discussion Starter #1
Good evening everyone..

So I have a 2016 825i that has some idling issues.

From the beginning..

I noticed a small bit of sluggish running and idling..

So I ordered a routine maintenance kit: oil filter and oil, air filter, fuel filter and plugs.
Pulled the exhaust and checked for mud and debris and cleared anything there.

Changed all the above and started the gator and noticed the issue is still there.
Switched plugs back to old ones and no change. So I pulled the tank drained and cleaned it and put about a gallon of good new ethanol free gas in it and no change. So I ordered one coil pack to see if I could diagnose if one of the packs were bad and still no change.
I ordered some Bosch injectors and changed all three and still no change.
When it starts it idles between 730-760.
When I engage the throttle it revs up but sounds like a miss or stutters the whole time. Its also burning super rich.

So I have never had to deal with a vapor lock and don't know how to start with that.

I am at a total loss of what could be wrong. I will bring it to the dealer after all is exhausted but that bill scares me just thinking about it.

So has anyone had this issue or issues and any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks and God Bless
 

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Did you check compression? Suggest you measure and document the results. Another member recently posted he had good compression, but after doing a bunch of diagnostics and spending money on parts he finally did an actual compression test and found zero psi in one cylinder. Turns out it was a valve train issue, but the point is you need to verify the basics before changing parts blindly. Turns out he assumed he had good compression.

Was there a difference in plug color or burn pattern with the old or new plugs? Reading plugs can help isolate which cylinder is the culprit.

Vapor lock is an issue typically associated with carburetors as they work at below atmospheric pressure (gas siphoned from bowl). As pressures reduce the fuel wants to vaporize easier (liquid to gas state). Throw in extra heat from the engine and the fuel vaporizes too quickly. Typically fuel injection doesn't have this issue as the fuel is under pressure so the fuel remains in the liquid state. Somewhat analogous to why the radiator is pressurized.

Can you verify consistent spark in each cylinder? I've used everything from a timing light to an inline spark tester to visually confirm spark at idle and under load.

Perhaps you can do a cylinder balance test. With the engine running disconnect a fuel injector wire and not the change in RPM's. It should drop. If it doesn't, it will help pinpoint which cylinder is having the problem.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
200mph thanks for the suggestions.

I have not checked the compression, will do this evening after work.

I did look at the plugs all look to be burning the fuel sufficiently, but I will check the spark in all this evening or ASAP.

Thanks for the advice I will post the results.
 

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Good evening everyone..

So I have a 2016 825i that has some idling issues.

From the beginning..

I noticed a small bit of sluggish running and idling..

So I ordered a routine maintenance kit: oil filter and oil, air filter, fuel filter and plugs.
Pulled the exhaust and checked for mud and debris and cleared anything there.

Changed all the above and started the gator and noticed the issue is still there.
Switched plugs back to old ones and no change. So I pulled the tank drained and cleaned it and put about a gallon of good new ethanol free gas in it and no change. So I ordered one coil pack to see if I could diagnose if one of the packs were bad and still no change.
I ordered some Bosch injectors and changed all three and still no change.
When it starts it idles between 730-760.
When I engage the throttle it revs up but sounds like a miss or stutters the whole time. Its also burning super rich.

So I have never had to deal with a vapor lock and don't know how to start with that.

I am at a total loss of what could be wrong. I will bring it to the dealer after all is exhausted but that bill scares me just thinking about it.

So has anyone had this issue or issues and any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks and God Bless
check all plug wires for spark. i had that problem power wire to number three coil pack had open circuit
 

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Had issue on 2012 825i Miss and rough run at start up but always smoothed out. Other day miss would not go away as usual. Determined number 1 cylinder was not firing. This was done by removing wires from coil pack till one wire did not change condition. (NOTE) Machine runs really rough on one cylinder when you have the only other firing cylinder unhooked. Swapped coil packs to determine if there was a fault. Number 1 coil pack fired the other cylinder no problem. Checked spark through plug wire by pulling individual wire while running. Good strong spark. Changed plug in non firing cylinder - no change. Ran compression check. All cylinders 175 - 180 pounds. Was coming to conclusion that I had an injector that was not firing. Not looking forward to $155 for an injector and $200 labor to change. Talking to a service rep to schedule machine in for work and he listened to everything I had already tried and he asked about plug wire. Told him it had good strong spark when pulled out of engine and going to ground. He told me he had put lots of wires on these machines. Decided to spend $20 and try it first. Took wire out of machine and going to John Deere to throw away some money. When I got out into sunlight I saw a small pin hose and a carbon track on the side of the stem that goes into engine. Was not able to see it in the shop. Put some tape around barrel of plug and reapplied to machine. RAN SMOOTH AS SILK. The plug wire goes down in the barrel so it is surrounded by the metal pipe. This is why when I had it pulled out the spark looked so strong through wire. Proceeded to go purchase new spark plug wire. Found out they had 5 in stock. Should have been a flag right there --- they don't keep 5 of anything in stock unless they have lots of problems.
Sorry for the long reply--CHECK those wires if you have a miss. Might save you lots of money and aggravation!!!!!!
 

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Thanks for posting your findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry for the lengthy time between responses..

So I ended up finding the issue.
It was 2 of the plug wires, they had small 'burn' holes in them which was causing a spark from the plug to the inner wall where you drop the plug down at. I did a temporary fix to double check with some electrical tape. I used a complete roll of tape to cover the 2 that had the holes.

It fixed the problem for maybe a day.
The electrical tape does not have the high heat capability of a plug wire.

So I ordered 3 new wires from John Deere parts. I believe the total for all 3 and shipping was like 55-60 dollars.

13487
this is a screenshot of the parts diagram page.

Thanks for all the advise and tips..

Good luck to all that have issues...
 

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Thank you for sharing
 
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