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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, first post and first gator. Love it so far.

So the previous owner install 4 running lights and something else, which I can’t figure out where that wire goes yet. Anyway, he told me it had a power draw that drains the battery.

I removed all his aftermarket items from the battery. Even the Warn winch from JD. Key switch off.

I have gotten to the point where every fuse is pulled but yet there is still a draw from the battery. My Amp meter isn’t picking up the amount, it’s either more than 10 or it’s having an issue. However here is the data that might help.

If the pos terminal has been disconnected for a while (all fuses removed still), and I reconnect it to the battery it arcs with a small spark.

If I wait a little bit say less than a minute, I haven’t timed it, and connect to the battery it doesn’t arc. But a few minutes I will get the spark again. So it is something that appears to have a capacitor to it or a coil.

Solenoid? But that shouldn’t take any time to discharge.

Any ideas? Anyone have a wiring diagram/schematic?

Thanks,
JB


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What’s the actual amp draw with key off. This would quantify the situation. Once established fuses can be pulled to see which circuits are consuming the most.
Could be a bad battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That’s a good question that I alluded to. I put my amp meter in between. The meter either has an issue or it exceeds 10A, but I have my doubts because of the size of the arc/sound of snap. I’ll try it again today and see if the meter gets something or I will find another meter. That being said, ALL fuses are out and it still draws somewhere.

I saw a post that the 5 fuse block behind the glove box has some issues. The first 40A fuse on one leg has had amps through it because it’s blackened but not enough to pop the fuse. At least it appears that way, the dielectric grease was fairly discolored too.


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Many fuse holders/blocks suffer from corrosion and create a high resistance at the fuse which causes problems like you describe in #3 above. A new fuse block that is more corrosion resistance could resolve if it is a problem. Look for fuse blocks for boats.

If pulling more than 10 amps at rest the battery would be shot in a very short period of time. If a lead acid battery is allowed to drop below 50% state of charge (roughly 12 volts) it will start to reduce capacity.

Post results after you verify current draw. (Meter leads usually need to be changed when measuring amps, and can lead to funky results)

If amp draw when off, try disconnecting B+ lead to alternator and also feed to starter from battery.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Morning! I’m heading home and excited to work on this thing.

I watched some videos and read more posts. Lots about the fuse blocks. One of my fuses did have a lot of amperage through it. Should I start there?

Verify that the large fuse (40a?) has the feed wire and it’s not on the opposite side?

I could easily add four individual fuse holders and ditch the block all together. I may even have a SeaRay fuse block around.

Thanks for the posts and knowledge.

I do have some wiring to clean up from the previous owner such as a radio in the roof rack that isn’t tied in to a switched lead. I think I read that the black/yellow wires are switched. True statement?

Anyone have a wiring diagram?

Justin


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When dealing with high current lines a voltage drop test along the conductor is a very effective test.

Place one probe on the supply side of fuse and other on the protected side measuring voltage during actual high current demand. Ideally there Should be zero voltage drop if great continuity between fuse / fuse holder /wire termination.
Key is resting under load and why this type of test is ideal for starters and such. Given this is a 40 amp circuit the principal applies. If any drop above normal wire resistance it’s worth investigating.
It’s painful to purchase the technical manual but it is filled with valuable info including wiring diagrams.
Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Is there supposed to be something here?


It’s the intake portion. Can’t tell from the manual.

As for wiring. This guy had wires and splices quite a few places so I’m tearing that all out. It’s gonna be a while till I get the troubleshooting going.

What’s the best way to get to the 4 fuse block?

Thanks,
Justin


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Can’t answer the I let question. But can provide a source that will behold the answer.

Www.jdparts.com. Enter model or serial number.

I’ve found the illustrated parts to be helpful in some situations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you. I’ll look it up.

So.. I blew a fuse in my meter. Out right now to pick one up.

Is the 12v outlet on the dash always on or switched?

Man, the wiring job done was…not up to my standards.

I found another post is a black and yellow wire switched, in general?

Justin


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At one time red was always hot and yellow was switch 12 volts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay. The frustration mounts.

I have to have a chaffed wire or a screw drilled into one somewhere.

I measure the resistance between pos and neg and get about 14.5 on the meter at 200k. I pull each fuse hoping to find where it drops to zero. After all fuses pulled the resistance is still there. So I’ve got a pos feed to ground somewhere. Ideas? Common spots?

The resistance also rises and falls showing some sort of capacitance.

Unfortunately I have to go to work for a few days but will keep researching.

Im going to try tracing a few wires down right now but it’s just me so it’s gonna get frustrating.

Justin


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay. Found a “random?” 35A fuse just past the solenoid but attached to the hot side. Pull the fuse. Drops to zero. Stopped there for now.

What the heck is this fuse? Looks installed factory or really well but could be on wrong side of solenoid?



The fuse is pulled and it’s designed to clip onto something just not sure what. It was laying there.

Justin


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The electronic power steering assist is a 35A fuse that just is dangling out on the end of a wire harness. Might be the one in your photo. Hard to tell for sure. I also have 860i and have replaced this fuse. Is your EPAS light coming on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No EPAS light but should that be wired to hot or switched?

If I disconnect that my power drain is gone! So I have a direction. Anyone have a diagram of that?

I have tonight to work on it and then will be back Sunday. Then I have lots of opportunities to work on this but that is my drain.

There are three wires all connected to one point. I don’t know what the other two go to yet then.

Here is a better photo. You can see the battery to the solenoid and then 3 wires under that and appear to run to the fuse but all go into a main loom. The winch solenoid is on the far left.

Justin



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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Much better photo.

Now whether the fuse is connected to that hot point or it’s all one big hot circuit I don’t know but there is continuity from the solenoid hot to the hot side of the fuse.


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I have a different model (855D) and the tech manual slows the EPAS power being switched power.

Operating Conditions:
Key in Run or Start
Engine running

This holds true for all S/N's over the years.

The above is for an 855D and may differ from your model. Information found in the technical manual. Only providing in the hopes in helps in some small way.

Might want to consider the purchasing a copy of the Technical Manual.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
First, Happy Thanksgiving!

Second, the guy that owned this before added an LED bar in the front and two LED lights in the back. He had a pre-wired on/off switch that powered a relay. He hadn’t wired it all up yet. Just the LED bar in front.

I never could figure out where the drain was other than the 30A fuse above. I figure he created a loop. But what I did is completely remove his wiring.

He had spliced into the 12V outlet in the center dash. Wrapped wires around the frame behind and then wired in a MB Quart bar radio overhead.

The wires he ran from the LED lights to where it was all wired up were zip tied along the frame rail and just didn’t look good to me.

So I ripped it all out. Started over. I also came off the 12V power outlet with a soldered connection and wires that didn’t wrap around the frame. I wired the MB Quart sound bar (which was probably another draw because he didn’t have the switched wire switched. Always hot!)

I have the lights so that they are always hot. So I can work with the motor off.

I used these switches and they fit right in the dash.

Xislet LED Light Bar Rocker Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079PWYJMY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

No commission or anything stupid there that is just the link.

I also used a step bit and drilled holes in the frame bars and pulled the wires through that. The frame on the top/back comes apart by removing the two bolts and it gives you access to the wiring holes. I ran my wires along the same wiring as the top rear brake light for the rear LED lights. I fished all the wires to the front and came through a grommeted port in the middle of the “firewall.”

No drain on the battery when switched off at least detectable by my Radio Shack multi meter.

I did run into an interesting difference in two volt meters. My Radio Shack one will show 13.8v ish and my sons harbor freight one shows 14.6-14.8v.

Guys thanks for all your help. I really like this gator.

Completely in related, When I listen to it while someone else is driving it, it’s quiet. When you’re in the cab, it’s loud! Is that normal?

Justin


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