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Discussion Starter #1
I am having trouble with the brake and tail light kit BM26394. I ordered it for my 2013 Gator 625i XUV. The fitment of the kit is nice, however the factory plugs on the chassis do not match the plugs on the tail light kit. The connectors on the chassis are much "larger" and heavier duty, looking like older wiring connectors. The tail light kit has more "modern" weather pack connectors, with much smaller prongs inside. Has anyone else had the same issues, and what was you soultion? The connectors are COMPLETELY apples and oranges, no way they would work.

Thanks

bobby
 

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I have the same machine and I ordered a cheap kit from ebay and where there were connectors I just cut the connector off and wired straight..You may have to do the same thing since your connectors don't match..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response Gary, we must be on the same page regarding direct wiring the lights. I notice the 2 sets of wires are even color matched. I ran into another problem, I cannot get any voltage to the "factory" plugs on the chassis. I inspected the "jumper" wire plug that came with the tail light kit. It installs in the bare plug behind the dash. I also get no voltage to that plug at any time......should I? My gator has a 2 position rocker switch with lights either on or off.

Bobby
 

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It may have changed on newer models, but most of the yellow wires are 12 volts with key on and the red wires are constant 12 volt (key position doesn't mater).
 

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Guys I jus spent over 30 min excitingly replying to these post an wanted to attach a pic of my project an could not then I got a msg that I had to log in an i have never been able to log in on this forum unless I go thru FB and then all I wrote was lost..Pis on dis shit..Guys I may try again in the future but the problem I have in logging in is just not worth it..
Gary
 

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Weinerb,

The connectors shown in your photos look to be very corroded or at a minimum not clean to bare metal. If the rest of your wiring connection look to be in the same condition it is no wonder electrical can be suspect.

If this was my machine, I'd be going through the vital circuits (to keep it starting/running) and clean/replace every electrical connection to ensure there is metal to metal contact. Also suggest using some dielectric grease once they are clean and there is perfect continuity between the connections. Also double check the terminals the fuses plug into. They've been know to corrode also.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think I'm getting closer......i jumped a wire from the battery to the 3 pin plug under the dash. I now get voltage to the rear plug (5pin) on 2 of the 5 pins. One comes on with the headlight switch (marker) and on when the brakes or parking brake are applied. I still never get voltage to the 3pin plug under the dash. I have checked all fuses in the fuse panel, also the fuses that I can find in-line. Is there a spot for a fuse that I'm missing? I feel that there needs to be power coming to the 3pin connector so the jumper plug supplied with the kit can do its job. Would it involve the headlight switch wiring somewhere? I'll keep digging.

Bobby
 

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Just because a fuse is good doesn't mean it's makin contact with the pins inside the fuse block. Many folks have reported corrosion (difficult to see) or poor fitting connectors. In either case the electrons can't flow and the fuese is OK. Don't rely on visual inspection when it comes to wiring. Test with a meter and verify voltage comes in and out of every connection.

Hopefully you've found your problem by now. Do you care to comment on what you've found?
 
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