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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 72" powertach blade (plow for us easterner) the temps were low about 10 degrees but the load on the unit was low because the snow was light. The plow just stopped working after a push. waited for the override to reset. nothing. I have checked the solenoid (working, pump working and full of oil and replaced the 3 -40 amp relays in the wiring harness. stilll nothing. The makers of the blade are sending me a new wiring harness, with one relay upgraded to 40 amp. My problem is that Power Place in Rockaway NJ doesn't offer a clue or has an idea what went wrong. they sell the item but I have to explain to the parts guy each time what accessory I have. A 72 plow id not a vanity mirror and I would expect the dealers service dept. to have at least a small understanding of the unit they sold to m . Very frustrating with snow on the way.
 

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I can understand that frustration, but to give the dealers a little bit of credit, that blade is a licensed product meaning it's not made by John Deere, but Licensed to sell in a dealership. And if they dont sell many of those blades they may not know it just because of low experience with it.

As for the problem, we have sold a few of those blades and have really never had any issues with them. That is a strange issue but without having the unit in front of me with a tester, etc., its hard to diagnose.
 

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I bought a 2007 620i with a broken PowerTach plow. The electric motor (it's just an electric trim motor for a boat motor) wouldn't run but was getting power. Due to no warranty, I ended up ripping apart the electric motor and found that it had what appears to be a thermal switch that was bad. It's a thin wafer that bends as it heats up and breaks electrical contact. I cleaned it, bent it this way and that, and still had no luck getting it to consistently make contact. The solution for me was to solder in a bypass wire. This is its second Alaskan winter plowing multiple medium/large steep driveways and it has had no issues since.

In short: use your warranty if you have it. If not, start with the multimeter and make sure your plow motor is getting juice. If that is broken, might be time to rip into the motor. The switch is at the top of the end cap with the wires coming out of it, but is a little hard to see in this picture.

 

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Oh, and my local dealer's parts department had not a clue about the unit. When they finally found the right part, they sold the complete electric over hydraulic unit as one piece for $1k or so, hence the reason I didn't hesitate much to rip into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys great advice. I went back and made new connections for the pump. and after a couple of hours I got it working again. I believe it is that same switch Nachoman. and I will take the good advice until I have no warranty left. thanks again all . This site is the best!!!
 

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My brother just shredded my drive belt on my 825i Gator.. He was plowing snow and kind of stressing the machine. Has this been a problem with JD machines?
 

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My brother just shredded my drive belt on my 825i Gator.. He was plowing snow and kind of stressing the machine. Has this been a problem with JD machines?
I have not read of any instances of "shredded belts" due to normal usage.

I can tell you that I have "glazed" a belt on a snowmobile, but that was not normal useage.... I was pulling a very heavy boggan behind the snowmobile..
 
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