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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This seems to be a semi common problem but I am new to gators and can't seem to find my problem. When I turn the key the fuel pump refuses to prime. Pulled fuel line to check for flow and got nothing. I jumped it to the battery and it spun right up. So any help would be great. I'm going to link a YouTube video of a start attempt.
https://youtu.be/TQCv5LnarIU
 

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Serial number less than 60,000...so it should be like our 2011. Check for voltage at the connector under the seat, when you turn the key forward to start it. Is this where you applied battery power to it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am getting about 3 volts at the connector under the passenger seat. That is where I applied direct voltage from the battery and it powered up. Am I correct in thinking that the blue wire running to the computer under the dash is the power source for the pump? If so I have 10.3 volts with the key on.

Thank y'all so much for taking the time to help me trouble shoot this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have 3 volts at the connector for the fuel pump under the seat and 10.3 volts at the pin for the blue wire coming off the pcm in the dash.
 

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Okay. That's not the correct wire, then.

The blue wire for the pump is coming from the Relay Module under the hood. A green wire from the PCM/ECM is what feeds the Relay Module.
 

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The fuse I circled at the top is for the pump. Check that.

Pin 6 goes to the pump on the blue wire. Check there for 12V when trying to start the engine. Can be done without disconecting it.
Pin 3 is the green wire that comes from the PCM.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you very much. I checked all of the fuses and they looked good but I will pull that one and check it for continuity just to be sure. I hadn't looked at the green wire yet but I will do that soon and check back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I checked the F9 fuse and even though it was good I replaced it anyway with no change. I found some good clean metal to ground to when testing pin #6 and read 12.4 volts with initial key on then it tapered back to 0 volts after a few seconds. It started raining on me so I had to take a break.

Do I need to pull the battery cables to test the 12+ blue fuel pump wire for continuity?
 

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If you're getting 12V at pin 6, you should be getting it at the connector under the passenger seat. Unplug it there and check the blue wire. If you can't tell which side is coming from the relay module, check both sides to make sure.

If you don't have 12v under the seat, you need to inspect that wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I was pretty happy about that too. I checked continuity on the blue wire from the relay to the plug and from the plug to the pump hat and both were good. I need to check across the plug but if all that checks out then I may need to trace my ground from the plug away from the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thank you so much for the help. I figured out the issue.

It turns out I had a bad ground running back under the bed. I decided not to run a full length of wire back there and just used the common ground under the passenger seat.

Just to be on the safe side I broke out the solder and heat shrink wrap and put together a weather proof solution. It feels good to have it up and running since it will be too wet to get the truck where I need to go for work this week.
 
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