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Whoops, got too many zeros in there. A 2013 above 60000 sounds correct. That means it originally had the the idler bearing clutch. Has that clutch given you any trouble Bunky?
 

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Whoops, got too many zeros in there. A 2013 above 60000 sounds correct. That means it originally had the the idler bearing clutch. Has that clutch given you any trouble Bunky?
Yes. It has balked at shifting most often from reverse when idling at 950 rpm. I do not often drive for extended times (many short trips) so I do not see it every time.
 

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ok--my bad. serial number is correct but it cant be a 2011. I found photo of when I bought it dated march 2009.
a couple of updates. it is a 2011 as I originally thought.the digital camera didn't have the correct date.now the good news---after the dealer service manager said his hands were tied,i emailed deere corporate their response was fast and positive---take the gator back to the dealer. they replaced the clutch and belt at no cost. thank you deere ad dealer.it once again operates properly so my wife can use it .i'm a happy camper.
 

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My 2012 has a bad clutch now....shifts like crap when warmed up. Parts are on backorder and will not be in until July 10th.:(

The dealer replaced the shift lever I broke and dropped it back off for me until the parts arrive then they'll fix it and bring it back. It's funny I was just considering buying a new 825i with power steering and bam my clutch failed...guess that's a sign that I should probably bank my money for awhile in case the clutch "fix" isn't going to fix anything.:mad:
 

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Mine is acting up more too. I still have not seen anything that says JD has solved the issue so if I was going to get it fixed I would let MBDiag have a shot at it if I could get it off the Gator.

Does anyone have a video on removing and installing the clutch? It think it is best when you have a special tool.
 

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I found a team industries video. It looks quite simple: remove clutch cover, remove 13mm bolt, insert clutch puller to pop off shaft, and then reverse.
 

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Mine is acting up more too. I still have not seen anything that says JD has solved the issue so if I was going to get it fixed I would let MBDiag have a shot at it if I could get it off the Gator.

Does anyone have a video on removing and installing the clutch? It think it is best when you have a special tool.

Deere is repairing these at no charge so until it actually costs money to repair it I'm not sure I'd do the work myself and pay to have the clutch reworked. JD should get it right it's just taking them way too long to do it, I'm not sure if the extreme delay is for a newly revised clutch or not but I do know my dealer couldn't order the part numbers the original bulletin called for....they had to contact Deere who told them the parts they needed and that they wouldn't be available until July 10th
 

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I will call the dealer tomorrow. It was balky again today. Whatever it is, it gets worse over time so something is changing.
 

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Is there any chance that this clutch is not disenguaging due to hight idle RPM or a jammed flyweight or something....if its enguaged and putting pressure on the belt (trying to roll the belt) I could see that causing issues with enguaging the transmission....just a thought...

In my case the Gator idle is 950 rpm which should be fine, according to the dealer they made them too tight and as they heat up the clutch sticks causing them to not completely disengage.
 

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Is there any chance that this clutch is not disenguaging due to hight idle RPM or a jammed flyweight or something....if its enguaged and putting pressure on the belt (trying to roll the belt) I could see that causing issues with enguaging the transmission....just a thought...

In my case the Gator idle is 950 rpm which should be fine, according to the dealer they made them too tight and as they heat up the clutch sticks causing them to not completely disengage.

In my experience, the dealer is correct and they have been setting them up poorly for a LONG time. They were indicating that they had corrected this, but it seems to continue to happen.

As Summer comes on, the heat will cause more of them to stick, most especially in warm climates of course.

It is a tedious job to set them up correctly. If they are too tight, they will stick as is seen by some forum members and described in this thread, causing difficult shifting. If they are set up too loose they will at best be noisy and at worst, cause premature clutch component cracking.
 

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Poppyjohn and Dixie are on the right track. Checking idle speed would be the first and easiest check to make. All you do is just look at the panel. I haven't seen a clutch that is working correctly that won't release the belt below 1100 RPM.

Once it is determined that idle speed is not excessive, if you feel comfortable removing the clutch cover, with the engine off of course, pull on the outer sheave of the primary clutch, the one on the engine, and see if you can open it further. If so, you have a sticky clutch that needs replacement or proper clearancing.

Hope this helps.
 

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Hey. Im in Australia and a clutch for my th gator 2015 is $800 no labour. I was wondering who the manufacturer is of the clutch and if i could get it direct? The part im after is AM138532. Which i think is the same part number you are talking about in this thread. My clutch just blew out the side in pieces. So does comet still make them for jd? Or is it another company. If so what is their part number?
 

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Just to add i can get this for $80. 40 Series 1" Bore Go Kart CVT Torque Converter Driver Clutch Fits Comet 40/44 It replaces COMET 40/44 Series Torq-A-Verter models, and works with 8-18hp engines within the 1600-3300 RPM range. The 40/44 Series is heavily used in three wheelers, ATV's, LTV's , GO KARTS, and other transportation vehicles.

THIS KIT FITs ALL ENGINES WITH A 1" SHAFT 1/4" KEYWAY
 

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Same Model Same Problem

New update on my clutch problem, JD is paying for the clutch and I paid the labor to have it replaced. Apparently there IS a problem with the clutch "sticking" and JD admitted it. They said the tolerances are so close that when the clutch heats up, it sticks to the drive belt under torque and will not release. It definitely explains why they get so many "hard to shift" complaints. The older 550's did the same thing and JD replaced about 50% of all the ones sold. They have no 'fix' for it except to replace the clutch and/or the drive belt. Thank you John Deere for helping take care of my problem. My 825i is awesome in every way except for this defect.
I love my gator but have experienced this problem twice already. It was taken back to the dealership and cables and linkage replaced withing a year of purchase. It has now gone out again. I am a loyal Deere owner and have been for years. This issue is really out of character compared to my other Deere products. Obviously I am out of warranty and need it fixed. Any suggestions when I contact the dealership for repair again. It it almost impossible to get in and out of gear. Very disappointing.
 

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New update on my clutch problem, JD is paying for the clutch and I paid the labor to have it replaced. Apparently there IS a problem with the clutch "sticking" and JD admitted it. They said the tolerances are so close that when the clutch heats up, it sticks to the drive belt under torque and will not release. It definitely explains why they get so many "hard to shift" complaints. The older 550's did the same thing and JD replaced about 50% of all the ones sold. They have no 'fix' for it except to replace the clutch and/or the drive belt. Thank you John Deere for helping take care of my problem. My 825i is awesome in every way except for this defect.
I love my gator but have experienced this problem twice already. It was taken back to the dealership and cables and linkage replaced withing a year of purchase. It has now gone out again. I am a loyal Deere owner and have been for years. This issue is really out of character compared to my other Deere products. Obviously I am out of warranty and need it fixed. Any suggestions when I contact the dealership for repair again. It it almost impossible to get in and out of gear. Very disappointing.
What models do. Have? 825, 550?
 

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Just to add i can get this for $80. 40 Series 1" Bore Go Kart CVT Torque Converter Driver Clutch Fits Comet 40/44 It replaces COMET 40/44 Series Torq-A-Verter models, and works with 8-18hp engines within the 1600-3300 RPM range. The 40/44 Series is heavily used in three wheelers, ATV's, LTV's , GO KARTS, and other transportation vehicles.

THIS KIT FITs ALL ENGINES WITH A 1" SHAFT 1/4" KEYWAY
Wish I could help, but I am not at all familiar with the TH. Sorry.
 

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Ive got a new 825i. I use it for work quite often, 1600 miles and Im on the 3rd drive belt. The problem now is its a bear to shift. You have to pretty much force it into gear and then when you take off it will jump out of gear. Then you have to come to a complete stop and put it back in and then hope for the best. Any ideas?
im on the 3 clutch in mine. it has been babied since the day i bought it for my dad. Now he just said it needs a new one again. if it wasnt for him loving it I would of sold it after the first year..
 

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im on the 3 clutch in mine. it has been babied since the day i bought it for my dad. Now he just said it needs a new one again. if it wasnt for him loving it I would of sold it after the first year..
You probably do not need a new clutch, they normally can be serviced for less than 1/3 of a new clutch. Contact JD Clutch Doc for more information at [email protected]
 

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While my machine was under warranty I went through several clutches. Then I sent my clutch to The Clutch Doctor to have it tuned. I think it's been 4 or 5 years and it's still working perfectly.
 
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