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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Read a bunch of posts and downloaded the TM manual for my gator that I just bought sight unseen and have been bringing it up to speed. This solenoid is 6.0 on Ohms and is strong. However, the plunger actuation is maybe 3/16”. I have the gator on blocks and have taken the front end off and rotated the dif fwd to get the solenoid off to use a Phillips screwdriver to engage the front. Measuring the depth of the Phillips screwdriver and guesstimating with the solenoid I think it’s about a half inch short. Can someone take a look at this and
 

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I don’t know how much the solenoid should move but generally solenoids don’t always have a tremendous amount of stroke as they are simple electro-magnets that cause the movement.
If the solenoid ohms are in range and it is actuating it’s likely operating ok. If the plunger was hanging up there be a great deal of heat buildup since the magnetic field is not collapsing (too hot to touch after a few minutes).
It’s very possible the sprag-like mechanism is broken so the contact position is off inside the transaxle.

Not certain what we are to make of the photo. Sorry.

hopefully some one might know the solenoid stroke but is likely a long shot.
Let us know how it all shakes out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don’t know how much the solenoid should move but generally solenoids don’t always have a tremendous amount of stroke as they are simple electro-magnets that cause the movement.
If the solenoid ohms are in range and it is actuating it’s likely operating ok. If the plunger was hanging up there be a great deal of heat buildup since the magnetic field is not collapsing (too hot to touch after a few minutes).
It’s very possible the sprag-like mechanism is broken so the contact position is off inside the transaxle.

Not certain what we are to make of the photo. Sorry.

hopefully some one might know the solenoid stroke but is likely a long shot.
Let us know how it all shakes out.
The solenoid was warmer ( boarderline hot) than expected and it was not energized very long, couple minutes max. My thoughts on the the photo as someone stated in another thread that the new solenoid plunger has a lip to prevent plunger from creeping into the barrel housing. The difference between the depth shown and possibly engaging the fwd looks to be similar. New solenoid be here in a few days. Will post photos of the two for reference. Thank you for responding, I’ve found your answers on other threads helpful in heading in the correct direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The solenoid was warmer ( boarderline hot) than expected and it was not energized very long, couple minutes max. My thoughts on the the photo as someone stated in another thread that the new solenoid plunger has a lip to prevent plunger from creeping into the barrel housing. The difference between the depth shown and possibly engaging the fwd looks to be similar. New solenoid be here in a few days. Will post photos of the two for reference. Thank you for responding, I’ve found your answers on other threads helpful in heading in the correct direction.
Looks like there was just enough extra in the new solenoid to make it happen and function properly. Didn’t measure, but was probably close to 2.5-3 Nickels stacked together worth. Shown comparison, and bonus pic of breaking tire bead to put in new valve stems.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Vehicle

Wood Auto part Gas Metal Cylinder
Wood Auto part Gas Metal Cylinder
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Vehicle
Wood Auto part Gas Metal Cylinder
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Vehicle
 

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Thanks for providing the feedback and great pictures showing the difference.

Is there any chance the solenoid can be dissected/disassembled to understand why the stroke is different?

Does the 4wd work now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for providing the feedback and great pictures showing the difference.

Is there any chance the solenoid can be dissected/disassembled to understand why the stroke is different?

Does the 4wd work now?
4wd works now, at least so far so good. The plunger stroke was the same on both the new and the original, eyeballing it. The only difference was the new part had either a longer plunger or the original had creeped into the barrel housing. The original is shelved for a later inspection. Had the opportunity of comparing them without buying, I would have extended the original to the length of the new part and went from there. Doing brakes and lighting now with some impressively cheap nilights from Amazon now. Gt12 turbo came in today also. Shoulda be able to get that done at 1/5th the price of a “kit”.
 

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Glad you have 4wd again.
The turbo project sounds interesting. How much boost do you plan on running?
 

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I hate to say it, but my turbo 855D is going to a new home. That and a JD 1025R with implements and other gear are being traded in on an Orange tractor with a cab (Grand L5460). I haven't decided if I want to turbo my 865R as the times I would need it is a small percentage of hours. After processing, the 855D is going to an 81 year old friend who needs a heated cab to blow snow with and otherwise get around his 60 acres. I recommend the fuel be adjusted so the turbo just begins to smoke and then back off. The boost you get means hills you did at 21mph you'll do at 29. 1/2 ton load in the bed nets a 17/26 improvement. No sense in over boosting the Yanmar. Their turbo marine version is a legend, hence the Gator engine has plenty of headroom for the turbo.
 
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