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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have any of you used a radiator coolant vacuum refill kit to add coolant after draining it? If so, did it work ok? I'm trying to avoid facing overheating issues afterwards due to air in the coolant system like I did with my Ranger. These were never resolved. The various kits have pretty good reviews, filling sounds easy, and supposedly all or most air is removed. Otherwise, I'll be raising the front end and using the bleed screw (if it exists) and the engine block drain screw discussed in the manual (if I can find them).
 

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I operate a 2014 model 625 Gator and was bedeviled by sporatic overheating/stall events. Eventually solved by jacking the front end and using the bleed screw but it took 2-3 repeated efforts to finally clear the system. Sorry...no personal experience with vacuum pumps...good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I operate a 2014 model 625 Gator and was bedeviled by sporatic overheating/stall events. Eventually solved by jacking the front end and using the bleed screw but it took 2-3 repeated efforts to finally clear the system. Sorry...no personal experience with vacuum pumps...good luck.
Thanks very much, Shrink4, for the info. It all helps a bunch at my stage. Do you remember where the bleed screw is? I can't find it on my 865 but a Deere tech told me today it was near the thermostat and was a brass bolt. I know the 865 may be different than your 625 but the engine layout looks similar. Thanks again for your post.
 

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SierraGuy...my machine (and its owners manual) are 175 miles from my home so I can not readily walk you through the location of the bleed nut. Have you tried the corporate Deere web site to see if you can call up an exploded view of your machine's engine/coolant system ...it might get you in the right neighborhood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Please don't go to any trouble for this. I have looked at some Deere schematics and they help although none I have found say a screw or bolt is specifically the bleed screw. However, the tech I contacted said it is near the thermostat and upper radiator hose and I think I may have found it. Thanks again for your comments.
 

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the manual that come with the machine tells you exactly how to and where the bleeder valve is. My 2021 835r come with manual that tells you how to do all the service I would check there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
the manual that come with the machine tells you exactly how to and where the bleeder valve is. My 2021 835r come with manual that tells you how to do all the service I would check there.
the manual that come with the machine tells you exactly how to and where the bleeder valve is. My 2021 835r come with manual that tells you how to do all the service I would check there.
Thanks, Dave. I've looked in the 865 manual and Deere schematics but haven't been successful in finding a bleeder screw or have it discussed anywhere other than to use it. As you mention, the manual does clearly tell you how to do the service. Anyway, there is an "engine coolant switch" on the manifold bleed port but not sure if this is also the bleed screw. This term and "bleed screw" are individually used in the fill procedure. There is also a bolt next to the engine coolant switch that could be what I'm looking for.. Since they are both located on the mainfold bleed port, I assume either one would bleed. That's what I'm going with now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I completed servicing of the coolant system this week after draining and then refilling it with a vacuum refill kit. I wanted to minimize the chances of trapped air locks in the system since this can cause overheating and be a pain to clear.

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I won't go into detail but compressor air is routed through a venture valve creating a vacuum in the cooling system. Then the compressor is turned off, that valve shut, and the coolant valve opened. Vacuum draws coolant into the system. When the vacuum goes to zero the coolant fill is complete.

The kit worked as advertised and took only a minute or so to complete filling even with my small 2 horsepower, 6 gallon compressor. I wasn’t sure about the compressor because some people on-line said you needed a bigger one but they may have been working on cars or trucks with larger cooling systems. The only limitation I noted was a compressor being able to achieve approximately 90 psi. Anyway, everything seems normal and at this point after driving the Gator 2 or 3 miles on a pretty hot day. Engine temperature appeared to be normal and the fan worked when it should. I’ll put a few more miles on it next week to make sure there are no air locks.

One final note, I drained the engine oil and removed the oil filter before draining the cooling system. The manual says this filter must be removed to drain the engine of coolant to get to the engine block drain screw. However, my arm would have had to be a foot longer to do this so it didn't work for me. I knew where this screw was but couldn't even see it much less reach it.
 

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Thanks for posting your experience to help bringing closure to the original post.

Great to hear the process worked. Was there a particular kit you used and would you recommend it or other?
 
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Thanks for posting your experience to help bringing closure to the original post.

Great to hear the process worked. Was there a particular kit you used and would you recommend it or other?
Thanks for your comment 200mph. I ordered the kit from Amazon and its description and photo follow.

OEMTOOLS 24444 Coolant System Refiller Kit, 5 Adapters | Eliminate Trapped Air, and Test Radiator and Heating Core Lines for Leaks | Universal Adapters to...

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