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Discussion Starter #1
My gator won't start at all. No sound at all when turning the key. The lights and horn don't even work when key is in RUN position. I am assuming a bad ignition switch. I pulled the switch and did some continuity tests. I have a 6-node, 3-position Indak switch. Only 4 of the 6 nodes have stamps on them. They are M, G, B, and G (yes, two G's).

I got the following results from my testing:
- Key in OFF position, continuity from G to M (this is good)
- Key in RUN position, NO continuity from B to any other node (this is bad)
- Key in START position, continuity from B to one of the G nodes (this is good)

My question is the following....
If there is no continuity from B to any other node when the key is in the RUN position, I assume that is why lights and horn don't work, but would that also prevent the gator from starting AND keep it from running?
 

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I have a 98 6x4 diesel gator but had a similar problem with nothing happening when I tried to start it. Assuming the differences between the two are mostly diesel and gas the wiring may be close. Mine was a loose ground, while using my meter to check my connections I touched a ground wire and everything came back to life. Check all connections including relays and fuses. You would be surprised to find out how a little corrosion goes a long way to ruin your day. Get a wiring diagram of your model to help with the trouble shooting.
 

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Procedure:

1. Park machine on level surface and turn key switch OFF.
2. Shift lever in NEUTRAL and park brake LOCKED.
NOTE: You may want to remove front hood for easy access to dash panel electrical components.
3. Disconnect key switch connector.
NOTE: DO NOT refer to markings stamped on terminals. Identify terminals by art keys ONLY. Terminal combinations other than those listed in chart should NOT have continuity.

M56827
4. Use an ohmmeter to test switch continuity in OFF, RUN, and START positions.
Switch Position Terminal Continuity

OFF: A and B
RUN: C and D
START: C and D
E and F
Results:

If any continuity is NOT correct, replace switch.
 

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xcopterdoc, here's your challange; the wiring diagram references the S2 switch and has a, b, g, m terminals listed but your switch diagram lists a, b, c, d, e & f. Can you match them up? as in: G terminal in schematic = D pin terminal on key switch? By the way, what ever happened to your Deere John column?:)
 

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I would have to know if its gas or diesel and have the last 6 of the serial number. Then I would know for sure. Although I dont know why it would be relevent.

"By the way, what ever happened to your Deere John column?:) " Yup.. I need more things to do this time of year! LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the switch diagram xcopterdoc. It was perfect. I put in a brand new switch and still had same problem. So, I started looking in other areas and found that the ground cable on from the battery had come disconnected from the frame. I bolted it back to the frame and now I have lights and I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to RUN position. However, when I turn key to START I get nothing. Any idea what component to check next?
 

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Well, the challenge was to help in trouble shooting electrical issues if the gator doesn't start when the key is turned on. On your response that it is not relevent, it dawned on me that if the key is turned to the "run" position and the dash lights come on, that circuit is "most likely" not an issue. But no lights would indicate something in that circuit is open or not grounded. If the dash lights come on but nothing happens when turned to start, it's more likely the battery, battery connections or starter/solenoid. Would that be a fair assumption?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When I turn the key to the START position, I hear a single click noise in what I think is the starter relay. However no sound or activity down near the starter/solenoid.

I pulled the little rubber bolt cover off of the starter and put a volt meter on it. Red on the starter bolt and Black on the negative lead of the battery. When I turn the key to START the volt meter reads 12V so I assume I am getting power to the starter.

Unless I am not testing the starter correctly. I know there is also a neutral sensor, but no idea how to test that.
 

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I was hoping for xcopterdoc to either confirm or deny my assumption of the electrical system but it sounds like you should focus on the battery, cables and starter/solenoid. I assume if you're gator is wired like most, the starter should have a 12v positive cable wired directly to it giving you the 12v signal. Check to see if you have 12v on the solenoid and ground when the key is turned to start. You'll need clamp on cables for your meter or a trusted family member/friend that won't try to scare the crap out of you when your not looking:)
xcopterdoc mentioned he was busy, I can only assume the south has defrosted and it's time to plant that spring garden.
I hope saying the "south has defrosted" was not taken as any kind of derogatory remark. I only meant to say the extreme cold the southern part of our great country has hopefully past and spring had arrived. If xcopterdoc plants a garden or not is up to him. Actually, I bet xcopterdoc is still trying to find that microfiche he promised me:)
 

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Do you disconnect the switch from the plug and probe directly into the plug electrical wire side of the circuit, with the key switch completely removed? When I put a light tester across f and c, my starter works. I can not seem to get the headlights to come on however.
 

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sochrymo, since you're responding to an older post, can you explain in a little more detail what your problem may be? At best from what you posted sounds like everything is ok except for the lights. Possible fixes, dirty connections to lights from switch, switch is failed or both bulbs in headlights are burnt. Is it dark when you try the lights? HA, just kidding, funny though.
 

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Help with switch removal

I am trying to replace my ignition switch but when I take the front nut off and push thru it hits a bar and won't come out. How did you get it out?
 

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I am trying to replace my ignition switch but when I take the front nut off and push thru it hits a bar and won't come out. How did you get it out?


Can you loosen the dash panel from it’s support bracket? This may allow you to manipulate the front of switch in and away from the support bar?
 

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Ok I got the switch out and installed new one. With the hood off and the dash loose it shut off every time, put all back together and now it won't turn off. Bad ground? Where to start?
 
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