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I couldn't find any help on this so just dove in and did my own and wanted to share some of my problems and hints. After jacking up the rear end and blocking it up securely I began by removing the wheels. Tools you should have available: 18mm wrench with box end, 18mm deep socket, 18mm regular socket, impact wrench, 4-6 inch socket extension, a socket knuckle, (I dont know the technical term for the u-joint socket adapter that helps get at odd angles), a grinder with cutoff blade, a 6 inch c-clamp to use as a press, 2 small blocks of wood to use with the c clamp, drill with small drill bit, and sandpaper.

I had trouble getting some of the bolts out from the suspension because the internal sleeve had corroded to the bolt so the grinder with a cutoff disc is how I got a couple of the bolts out, even with an impact wrench. A good reason to keep the bushings greased for future changes.

If you can get all the attachments off of the A brackets and the bracket that has the shock on it that will allow you to take the brackets off to work on that will make life a lot easier. If not it can still be done as I did it with the A bracket on but may be helpful to have another person help put it back together. Once the old bushings are out, the internal tube is cleaned of old grease and dirt, this is the sequence I found worked best: push the sleeve about half way through one of the bushings from the inside out, push this assembly into the bracket and seat it, now seat the other bushing on the other side. with the c-clamp press the sleeve into the other sleeve until flush. You might need to use the small block of wood here to provide an even pressure on the compression. Now repeat for all brackets. When reinstalling leave all connections loose so you can wiggle a little bit to get them all back into place. Once all the bolts are in now tighten everything. Grease each connection so you can get them out next time.

I reused some of my sleeves and bolts, especially the long ones, as these are the most expensive pieces of the rebuild. The long sleeves are $26 each, wow, all for a hollowed out piece of metal with a hole drilled in it. The bolts can be reused as well. Just remember to clean out the grease hole in each of the sleeve and the bolt. This can be done with a drill and small drill bit. Try to grease the bolt before reusing to make sure all the crud is out of it and the zerk is not plugged.
 

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Thank you for sharing!
 

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Just finished doing the lower bushings on the front suspension. I did remove the wheels and front skid plate to make it easier to use the impact wrench to access the bolts. Some insane engineer put the bolt on the lower A frame bolted on to the frame with the grease zerk end to the back of the machine. There is a cutout in the frame to access the zerk but when the nut is off the bolt wont come out through this small cutout. Had to turn the steering wheel and remove the sleeve to get an angle so the bolt would come out. After that used the procedure above to replace the bushings held true. Turned the bolt around when reinstalling so the zerk end is pointing toward the front of the machine and easier to insert with all the gymnastics. Easy enough to put the nut on the 18 mm socket in the cutout to tighten up. The first wheel on the back took about 4 hours by the time i got all the right tools and procedure down. After that it was about 2 hours for each wheel. So if you take it to JD for work it is probably a 9-12 hour labor charge. Parts were about $300 but am taking some of the sleeves, and bolts back as i was able to clean up the old ones and make sure the grease ports were clear. Probably another $50 for the 18mm socket and wrench, knuckle, and extension. Already had the impact wrench. Good luck. Also i would suggest you give the underside a really good power washing before you start as a lot of crud finds some of the weirdest places to hide and until you are underneath beating around on it and it all comes down on you.
 
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