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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Pulled the dipstick on my 2006 Gator TS (air cooled Kawasaki FE290D) and noticed (as usual) that it is covered with a milky white substance. I gather this is from condensation due to it not being used very often.

Anyway, simply changing the oil doesn't seem to get rid of this stuff because when I check the dipstick the next day it still has this white goo on it.

How can I stop this from happening, or at least mitigate this problem? Would switching to synthetic oil help? Also, is there some sort of engine flush available that I can use to 'clean out' the engine of this white crap?
 

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Infrequent use without allowing the engine to reach operating temperature can cause condensation.

The second cause could be a leaking head gasket.

I wish you luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. Could you please go into more detail as to why a leaking head gasket would cause this issue?
 

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Prior to making my comments, I did not understand you have a "air cooled" engine, perhaps the post was edited?

Thanks for the reply. Could you please go into more detail as to why a leaking head gasket would cause this issue?
Perhaps a visual will help?

A leaking gasket may allow coolant to mix with oil, as the engine pumps both oil and coolant through the engine to lubricant components and cool the engine.
 

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head gasket leak

Rgarding head gasket leak you could use a product called irontite comes in a white and blue bottle for antifreeze compatable , if the leak is minor a lot of times it will stop it , which would let you know if it is head gasket leak or condensation, I have used it before a couple of times and it stopped the leak even after 6 months didnt see any leakage, worth a try, instead of pulling the heads, hope this helps, good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but this is getting very annoying and strange considering it's an air-cooled engine.

I've tried fully synthetic oil but it does not help.
I only run ethanol-free gas in this Gator TS.
Just installed a brand new plug but the old plug didn't look abnormal.
Oil changed at about every 50 hours.

Any other ideas to solve this milky oil issue?
 

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Looks like your running machine just long enough to warm it up so it draws moisture into it and not hot enough to burn moisture off
What weight of oil and your climate
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looks like your running machine just long enough to warm it up so it draws moisture into it and not hot enough to burn moisture off
What weight of oil and your climate
Mobile 1 5W30 full synthetic.
Weather is Vancouver, BC (similar to Seattle, WA).
Yes, you're right -- we typically start the machine & run it for about 3 - 5 minutes simply to haul supplies from our boat to our home or vice-versa (we live off-grid).
 

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Drain the oil, flush with diesel and put in the cheapest brand oil in it and replace every 50 hours instead of 100 to stop the problem from coming back

Also jd calls for api sg so basically that means anything goes and is probably good enough
 

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I had the same experience with a former car I owned !! Cliff Notes version is I used to drive Saab 5 sp turbo coupes (hold the chortles, please - were great, reliable cars) When Gm bought the company, they felt the need to redesign the crankcase ventilation system (I'm sure to save 50 cents) The result in my cars became the same "white dipstick" you experience. I went to my dealer and spoke with one of the techs who told me that since the redesign they all had a propensity to do that !! In short, design issue that may/may not apply to your Gator. Good luck. Craig
 

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If he’s getting moisture migrating into oil he’s likely getting it n fuel also use good fuel conditioner and often
 

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How often do you run it and for how long? Also, in wha kind of weather? If you run influenzas very short hops, especially in cool weather, this would be almost expected. With aircraft we sometimes use an expensive crankcase dryer to keep moisture out of the crankcase, but this is usually in cool climates.
 

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What fuel are you using? As mentioned above you could be introducing water from the fuel in the crankcase.

Also 3-5 minute run time isn’t helping with burning off moisture that might be present.
 

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i agree with Bradhill on short runtimes, surly cause moisture on engine interior walls, then it runs down to sump, crank churns it up and it becomes a oil/water mixture. dependent on how much water get in before you change oil, usually start a whitish in color and as water increase when oil not changed, it will turn more gray and usually become thick as it goes on, very noticeable around oil cap as will.
Another thing i like to add, check your running Eng temp, if gauge is showing low especially when running, you may have a thermostat stuck open and if you idle, it just wont come up to operating temp.. winter spring and fall worst times because it probably wont ever warm up enough to dry out condensation. Most likely cause unless you notice your rad., going low sometimes. thats another story .
 
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