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Discussion Starter #1
New member looking for any help!

My father and I recently purchased a traditional 2003 4x2 gator. When we shift from neutral to forward or reverse there is a grinding sound. When we raised the bed, the drive belt continually spins in neutral. Is there an adjustment either in the clutch or transmission that allows the belt from stop spinning? Our thought is this is the cause of the noise. Drive belt feels loose however there must be enough friction between the clutch to spin the belt.

Also we searched and looked online to find out the engine oil filter is optional. Where is the optional oil filter placed if we purchase the kit? Also is it necessary? All of our tractors, skid steers and atvs have oil filters. Seems weird it would be optional on this machine.

Lastly is there is a transmission oil filter? Again couldn't find one and seems odd not to have one.

My apologies for the long post, any information would be much appreciated.

Thank you for your time,
Tom
 

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if xcopterdoc has finished his spring farming he can answer this much better but I'll give you what I found out with my 6x4 diesel. First the belt always spins, the clutch pulls in when you accelerate to increase the speed. As for the grinding when shifting, my does if I'm still rolling and shift to go the other way or my rpm's are higher than idle. Assuming you're's is diesel, the oil filter is at the lower rear of the motor, slightly on the drivers side, it's about 1/3 the size of an automotive filter, kind of hard to see, I know I missed it the first and maybe the second time:) and for the transmission filter, never thought about that one, I'll check my manual to see
 

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Yes the belt will spin all the time. The grinding noise is the clutch not fully disengaging. Two things can fix this. 1.) take your clutch apart and blow some air around there and kinda clean it out. or 2.) get a new clutch. But yes, that belt spins all the time.
 

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I'd guess engine idle speed or a sticking clutch.

The front/drive clutch is centrifugally controlled and it will not fully open until the rpm's drop below it's magic point. Drive the machine and come to a stop and watch the clutch, focus on how far the side plates are apart. Then turn the engine off while watching the clutch. Does it open a bit further when the engine is turned off? If so then I'd check the idle speed.

Put the Gator in neutral and run the engine through various rpm's and watch how the drive clutch moves. Does it open & close smoothly with changes in the rpm's or does it seem to hesitate at certain points? If it's not moving freely I'd pull it apart and clean it. Also look at the weights and their pivot bolts for wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you

All great ideas, we will try them this weekend, thank you and keep them coming! Will take any and all ideas. You guys are great, never know what to expect posting but they all make sense. Thank you very much.
 

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I have a 6X4 Diesel and the primary drive clutch will occasionally hang up in the high speed position. I shoot some WD-40 on the shaft and tap it gently with a hammer and it will eventually open up. I took the cover off to clean/lube it and found the rollers for the cams have flat spots worn on them. I lubed them up for now and it seems to work better but I know this needs attention. I called the JD dealer and was told there is no repair kit or individual parts available and would have to buy a complete clutch assembly to the tune of $500. But the JD parts website shows a parts breakdown of the clutch with part numbers for each individual part. The dealer says they can't be ordered that way. Is he full of it or is the clutch non-repairable? Anyone ever dealt with repai/rebuilt of the clutch?
 

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Every clutch I've seen can be repaired. I looked up part AM136876 which I think is the kit for the four cams. The same part is also used on the 6x4 military Gator and the 620i if that helps. I check the GreenPartsStore website and they show the kit for $100.12 so I'd say the parts are available.
 
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