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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I decided to start a new thread on this for clarity, though the discussion started in this thread (eGator - 3 clicks and no-go when pressing the throttle pedal)

The controller I had repaired (with a 5,2 fault code) failed with the same problem again, so I sent it in for warranty repair and got it back. But when I installed it again, I got a 3,1 fault code, instead. Stepping through the trouble shooting procedures, the controller is not triggering the 48V relay (on the J1-pin17 output...it's not going to ground). Everything that I can test that should be telling the controller it's OK to trigger the relay, measures OK - so then the next troubleshooting step is to replace/repair the controller, again.

I'm an THIS close to just ordering the Alltrax controller and going with that. But, if there is something else wrong with the cart I want to make sure I understand and resolve that before putting in a new controller (or even a repaired controller).

Another crazy finding...I took the controller from my running eGator and put it in the second one (where I had tried the repaired controller) and I got the same 3,1 fault code. And then when I swapped that previously working controller back in to the previously running eGator...now I get the 3,1 code in there, too! Also, the repaired controller also showed 3,1 in the good cart.

So, to summarize that a little more clearly:
Repaired Controller + 2nd eGator (being worked on) = 3,1 fault code
Running Controller + 1st eGator (running) = running
Running Controller + 2nd eGator = 3,1 fault code
Repaired Controller + 1st eGator = 3,1 fault code
Running Controller + 1st eGator (again) = 3,1 fault code

Looking into the technical manual for the 1268 controller, they report the 3,1 fault code as:
Fault {3,1} MAIN DRIVER OFF - Main contactor driver held high.
Possible solutions: 1. Main contactor coil shorted. 2. Controller defective.

So, after reading that again, I taking it as either the coil on the motor relay is bad/shorted, or the controller needs to be repaired/replaced. I guess I'll go test the solenoids/relays in those carts and see if it is that. Though that 2 would blow, one right after another, is weird.

Update1: so I knew I wouldn't be able to get to sleep until I checked the motor relays in both the eGators. I used a 5A fuse inline with the connection from the batteries and through the solenoid activation coil (just in case it was truly shorted) and the relays worked fine on both eGators. If nothing else is preventing the motor controller from triggering the relay (and if it were something else, then I would expect a different fault code pointing to that, instead), then it would seem the J1-17 "output" of the controller (Motor Relay Driver) is faulty. And, on both of my controllers now.

Update2: I also confirmed that the relays will activate through the wiring from the point of the connector to the controller. So, with the key On and J1-17 pin connected to ground, the relays activated on both eGators.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I ordered and Alltrax controller to use on one of my eGators while I wait for the other OE controller to get repaired again under the service warranty. It arrived today and I installed it on eGator1 and it works great!

Then I went to eGator2 and installed it, but could only get the wheels to turn slowly and didn't hear the motor solenoid engage. As a result, the Alltrax would flash a 1 Green, 2 Red code (Battery Under Voltage) when I let off the throttle - this makes sense, as the solenoid wasn't engaging so full battery power was not available to the motor.

Long story short, I need to double-check the connections at the hour meter. Once I removed the Yel/Blk wire from the hour meter (which also is tied to the solenoid coil activation driver) the solenoid engaged and the motor spun the wheel appropriately. I must have mixed them up when moving the wiring over to the new frame.
 
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