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@dalet : I was re-reading one of your earlier reponses in this thread, and see that a symptom you had matches what I am seeing on eGator1, now that I have that up and running...


Do you have a diagram of how you installed the diode (which direction) on the line? I have this same faint glow with eGator1 (even with the stock Curtis controller), but I did not have it on eGator2. The two hour meters are slightly different, though they are both Curtis models.

@christophe , which large connector did you mean in your post (the connector that was loose)? Are you referring to the large white connector on the Curtis controller?
I did not install a diode on mine because I do not know what size, shape, or color of a diode to install, so I am living with the glow!

Let me know if you figure it out though. lol
 

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Are the Curtis units coming from China new or refurbished? If refurbished I would stay away from fifteen year old refurbished units and go with the 400 Amp Alltrax controller (with JD cable of course).
Hi. Sorry I had overseen the question. The controllers seem new, though I don't understand how that can be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Well, the controller I had repaired failed with the same problem again, so I sent it in for warranty repair and got it back. But when I installed it again, I got a 3,1 fault code, instead. Stepping through the trouble shooting procedures, the controller is not triggering the 48V relay (on the J1-pin17 output...it's not going to ground. Everything that I can test that should be telling the controller it's OK to trigger the relay measures OK - so then the next troubleshooting step is to replace/repair the controller, again.

I'm an THIS close to just ordering the Alltrax controller and going with that. But, if there is something else wrong with the cart I want to make sure I understand and resolve that before putting in a new controller (or even a repaired controller).

Another crazy finding...I took the controller from my running eGator and put it in the second one (where I had tried the repaired controller) and I got the same 3,1 fault code. And then when I swapped that previously working controller back in to the previously running eGator...now I get the 3,1 code in there, too! Also, the repaired controller also showed 3,1 in the good cart.

So, to summarize that a little more clearly:
Repaired Controller + 2nd eGator (being worked on) = 3,1 fault code
Running Controller + 1st eGator (running) = running
Running Controller + 2nd eGator = 3,1 fault code
Repaired Controller + 1st eGator = 3,1 fault code
Running Controller + 1st eGator (again) = 3,1 fault code

Ugh...
 

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During deductive root cause analysis it's common practice to do the swap several times, so the problem can be evaluated from either the part or disassembly/reassemble process. Many times the part is good and the part lies with the Disassemble/reassemble process. In this case it could be a bad pin connection, a borderline ground path, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
@200mph - I agree. I've stepped away from both of them for a little bit to work on other things and let my mind work the problem in the background, in case something else pops to mind about why I'm seeing this behavior from BOTH controllers, now.

I also swapped the throttle potentiometers between the carts at one point in the troubleshooting, because I thought I got a low reading at the controller when trying the steps with the drive (throttle) engaged. But, in the end, it was just that the pedal wasn't pressed far enough to get the voltage reading listed in the troubleshooting guide (the output from the throttle potentiometer can vary between ~0.5 and 4v, depending on how far the throttle is pressed.
 

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If I remember correctly - the technician at AllTrax made a comment that Deere made some unorthodox connections to the motor controller that he had never seen before... its been a while but something like... they grounded the sensor at the controller instead of at the trigger location?

I found most of the weather guard connectors needed cleaning, and (more so) the microswitches had dirt caked dirt on the solder connections, which could (theoretically) pass low voltage to the controller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I created a new thread, just for troubleshooting this 3,1 issue. I'll continue the investigation there:
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Since some of you have been following on this thread, here is my latest update (I posted it in the other thread, as well):
I ordered and Alltrax controller to use on one of my eGators while I wait for the other OE controller to get repaired again under the service warranty. It arrived today and I installed it on eGator1 and it works great!

Then I went to eGator2 and installed it, but could only get the wheels to turn slowly and didn't hear the motor solenoid engage. As a result, the Alltrax would flash a 1 Green, 2 Red code (Battery Under Voltage) when I let off the throttle - this makes sense, as the solenoid wasn't engaging so full battery power was not available to the motor.

Long story short, I need to double-check the connections at the hour meter. Once I removed the Yel/Blk wire from the hour meter (which also is tied to the solenoid coil activation driver) the solenoid engaged and the motor spun the wheel appropriately. I must have mixed them up when moving the wiring over to the new frame.
 
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