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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I have a problem with my gator xuv 865m. It started off with the epas symbol coming up. Then I turned the machine off and now I cannot start it. If I turn the key to acc the display will flash on and off and the relays are making buzzing noises. I put a voltmeter on all the electrical plugs and fuses under the hood and with the key off I’m getting 12.5v but if I turn the key to accessories It drops down to 9 volts. I can run a wire from the battery to any of plugs under the hood and it gives it enough power to start and run normal. I though it was the epas drawing to much current but I unluggged it with no difference. Hope someone can help. Cheers
 

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Matt,
Suggest doing a voltage drop test. This is a great type of test to uncover the voltage drop you're encountering (3+ volts). This test is generally conducted along the wire and is done while circuits are underload. The general idea is to keep splitting the wiring run, until the voltage drop is found. Pay attention to where the circuit is probed. For example: The Place one on the battery post (not clamp) and one wire. There are two potential drops within the 1" of electrical travel. battery post to clamp and clamp to wire.

There are many good videos on YouTube demonstrating how to do it.

Having a wiring diagram will help immensely. If you do most repairs, the technical manual can clarify system theory, test requirements and wiring diagrams. Very useful, but most don't want to pay for it and would rather beg for someone else to pay for it and take the time to post the documents they need.
 

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I didn't have mine a week. Battery was pretty much dead. Had similar symptoms as your experiencing. Replaced and no problems since. I checked battery with load check meter. Dead cell and brand new gator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Matt,
Suggest doing a voltage drop test. This is a great type of test to uncover the voltage drop you're encountering (3+ volts). This test is generally conducted along the wire and is done while circuits are underload. The general idea is to keep splitting the wiring run, until the voltage drop is found. Pay attention to where the circuit is probed. For example: The Place one on the battery post (not clamp) and one wire. There are two potential drops within the 1" of electrical travel. battery post to clamp and clamp to wire.

There are many good videos on YouTube demonstrating how to do it.

Having a wiring diagram will help immensely. If you do most repairs, the technical manual can clarify system theory, test requirements and wiring diagrams. Very useful, but most don't want to pay for it and would rather beg for someone else to pay for it and take the time to post the documents they need.
Thanks mate for the info I’ll give that a go tomorrow. The dealer is going to send me the wiring diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you check and clean battery post and cables
Thanks for the reply. I didn’t load test the battery because when I get the voltage drop at the front down to 9 volts the battery still has over 12 volts so I thought the battery must be good. I’ll get it tested tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I didn't have mine a week. Battery was pretty much dead. Had similar symptoms as your experiencing. Replaced and no problems since. I checked battery with load check meter. Dead cell and brand new gator.
Thanks for the reply mate. I’ll get the battery load tested tomorrow. My battery is still putting out over 12 volts and will still start if I short the starter motor out. Just that I’m losing power somewhere along the line
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I read in the operator manual it has load shredding. Anyone know much about that for this machine?
 

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It has to do with the light and alternator not putting out enough amps at low speed.

Battery protection circuit when electrical demand exceeds what the alternator can supply at lower RPM.
 

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Might consider using tin coated copper wire that it commonly used in marine applications.
 
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