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Hey guys just joined the forum and hoping there are some electrical gurus in here. I recently came into possession of a Gator with a sad history, it's a 625i and I believe it's a 2015 model but not certain.

The machine only has 11 hours on it, here's the story... Up until last spring it was garage kept and lived a posh (yet boring) life as a mail grabber and garbage pail hauler. Couple of jaunts through the woods but it was really babied. Last spring the previous owner went to take it for a spin, it had been in the garage all winter, and about a half mile into the woods it conked out. I assume it had stale gas in it. One thing led to another and it sat down in a ravine for over two months. In April I was called to try and rescue it, but it was far too difficult to remove at the time. It cranked but would not catch. And so it sat, in that same ravine, for another seven months. Yeah... it was down there almost a year. I just recently was called back, this time I dragged it out with a tractor and a couple of winches. Previous owner said he's done with it, and here we are. It is in very fair shape considering how long it sat, the tires never lost any air and there isn't any evidence of animal damage that I can see. Just lots of leaves and dirt staining, but whatever it's a camo model anyway.

This leads me to the current state of the electrical system. There is no power to the ignition switch, no lights, no dash, no winch or dump bed power... but if I run a wire direct from the battery to the ignition all of those things work and it will crank. No spark though. I have checked all the fuses I can find and didn't find any blown ones. The fuse block under the dash has power even without the jumper wire.

Where do I begin? I've uncovered the fusible link near the positive battery terminal, looks OK but haven't tested for continuity. All grounds look good, there really isn't any corrosion to speak of, just dirt and grime on the exposed areas of the machine. Thanks in advance.
 

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Thing is that even the electric gurus cant see through a screen.
Depending on the model there should be a wire going through the alternator or starter to a red 12/14 gauge or so wire going to the switch or firstly a fuse.
Is there any power on that loop?

What if you would power the red wire to the switch manually?

It think it might not be enough to power the safety switches aswell but if you can power the dash atleast you know if the problem is before or after that.

You might have missed a fuse or simply a connector that is worn or broken.

The fact that nothing lights up makes it actually pretty easy to diagnose, but keep in mind that putting direct power on things still wont power the safety switches so machine wont fire and the problem is somewhere at the beginning.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's actually a good point, no spark issue may just be due to a safety switch. I'm going to test the fusible link this evening and see if it's shot, but there is only about 10" of wire from the battery terminal to the main harness, so I may have to split open the main harness to trace things further.

I was able to pull up a wiring schematic and it looks like there are two fusible links and a 20amp fuse between the battery and ignition, also two junctions along the way where power is split to various other systems. Logic would dictate the problem lies before those junctions as it's an 'all or nothing' situation with ignition power.
 

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Did you put a new battery in?

Also keep.in mind that theres also a signal wire.

I am not that big of an expert on gas engines but the shut off on some kawa engines goes through the black and white wire on the ignition switch on some models.

Again, also here no power means no spark.

Theres not too much options here,
Take out the switch for a second and leave it dangling.
Youll probably see something in the lines of: black, white, yellow, yellow, red. And purple is the starter signal
Try powering the red and or yellow.
Yellow is accesory here.
If you can make anything light up thats a start.

The red one should show power with a testlight hooked to negative.
If not follow it down to the issue

I recall fiddling with these ones and the dash lighted up dim instead of bright indicating that there was a break somewhere to ground.
Anyway report back with what it does with either red or yellow
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yep, it has a fresh battery and voltage is good, 12.5v. I have power to the fuse block under the dash but no power going to any part of the ignition switch. If I take a wire directly from the battery to that red wire on the ignition (and turn the key to run position) the dash lights up, winch and dump bed function, and the starter cranks the engine as it should. But still no spark.

The fuses under the dash look good, but I'm going to change them all out as a precaution. The only visibly blown fuse I found was for the windshield wiper, the wires for that run through the inside of rollbar and I found that the insulation was completely worn through where it exits near the roof. Cut the bad wire out and spliced those back together, thats one minor victory so far.
 

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Thats the most i can help you without going in to vehicle specific details as i have no specific knowledge of the 625i wiring.

It is clear that power is not being supplied to dash.
Wether that has to do with the same issue that doesnt make the ignition fire i dont know but it seems likely.

I would spend some time prodding into the plus wire with a sharp testlight to see where it goes and wether there is a point where you get a signal.
Iam suspecting its early on, either a corroded or broken wire or fuse.
Again normally the battery wire goes through the starter where it distributes to the ignition for instance.
Since the starter is working and if theres power on that distribution point the problem is probably still in the wire to the switch or a main wire that goes to the same area.
Maybe a distribution point on the dash is burnt or damaged

Just this week i worked on a 748 that wouldnt start and it had a clear break at the end of a connector.
It could be something similar.

Dont worry right now if it doesnt fire, it could be an unrelated issue aswell.
Solving the dashboard and overall power should be priority since you know that can be fixed.
Do the easy fix first and maybe youll find the secondary problem aswell

Murphys law is strong in mechanics work, an hpx i worked on had a coolant leak, cap seal was worn.
Left it running and it overheated, fuse box to fan was burnt, replaced fuse box and it overheated again because the thermostat failed.
All related but seemingly different problems
Probably the fan broke, cooking the thermostat and it kept leaking through the cap breaking the seal
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey thanks for the guidance btw. I just did some testing with a multimeter and found the culprit for the ignition. Half melted wire between the fuse block and ignition. The fuse that was in place was a 40a rather than a 15a so I'm guessing previous owner slapped in a bigger fuse and kept turning the machine over until the wire burned up.

So that problem is solved. Now I still have no spark. I can get my hands on a spare ECU so I may just plug in to that and see if she runs. There is 12v going into the ecu but when reading at the spark plug it is only showing 1 or 2 volts, no difference when cranking the starter. To be honest I don't know if that's normal or not lol.
 

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Hey thanks for the guidance btw. I just did some testing with a multimeter and found the culprit for the ignition. Half melted wire between the fuse block and ignition. The fuse that was in place was a 40a rather than a 15a so I'm guessing previous owner slapped in a bigger fuse and kept turning the machine over until the wire burned up.

So that problem is solved. Now I still have no spark. I can get my hands on a spare ECU so I may just plug in to that and see if she runs. There is 12v going into the ecu but when reading at the spark plug it is only showing 1 or 2 volts, no difference when cranking the starter. To be honest I don't know if that's normal or not lol.
Thats exactly the murphys law i talked about lol.
Glad to be of service, try the ecu first indeed and if that doesnt help ill see if i can get you a little further.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Speaking of Murphy's law... I checked the ecu and it was fine, went back to the fuse block and started fiddling with the connections again. Suddenly the fuel pump came to life and primed itself. Oh, right... The fuel pump! Didn't even cross my mind to listen for it. The fuse was good but there was a bit of corrosion on the little fuse blades, so I cleaned it up and the engine fired up immediately. I guess the no spark issue was due to the no fuel issue? Either way it's purring like a kitten now.

I damn near crapped my pants when I went to move it, sounded like someone threw a tin can full of bolts down a staircase... Turns out a squirrel went and stashed a big pile of nuts in the belt drive housing. For a second I thought I blew up the transfer box or worse the engine itself. Pulled the cover and a few dozen acorns came rolling out.

Oil is clean and golden, looks new! No sign of metal flakes or water. Coolant looks fine, engine is idling smoothly and maintaining operating temperature.

So lesson learned; check, check and recheck those fuses and connections. I put a grand total of $7 and maybe three hours of time into this fix, just a bit of wire and some crimp connectors were needed. I paid one dollar for the machine. Yeehaw. I'll get some pics up soon.
 

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Maybe replace all fuses in due time as i would replace them all if i have any fuse issue.

If theres one corroded it means its time to replace them all before you go through this again
 
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