[Nikdfish]

We bought a Gator XUV590E S4 last year, mostly for use out at the acreage. It's 12' long, 1700lb. and the only trailer of ours that could handle it was the Aluma car hauler. Thats a bit of a pain, being long, low, wide & having pull out ramps. So we did some browsing of inventory near by & the wife decided she liked a red Texas Bragg 14' 7K utility at the same place we bought a dump trailer a while back. Deck is 2" timber, 76" across. 2' high sides with expanded metal & pipe top rail. 4' high- ramp built of 2 inch square tube. Electric brakes on only one axle, I'll be adding brakes to the idler axle as it already has a brake flange, waiting for the etrailer house brand 10" self adjuster to get back in stock.

These are pics of our trailer while on the lot (same trailer, VIN's match)

Finally, pics of the S4 on the trailer. Good clearance on the approach angle with the truck air suspension in high position, marginal clearance on the approach angle with the truck air suspension in lowest position (per an observer). Of course this could also be changed by changing the ball position on the hitch. No deflection of gate components observed during load/unload. I had no problem moving along between gator & trailer side when I got out. .

I'll be installing 3/8" D rings front, back & sides tomorrow, I picked up a bunch of grade 8 bolts at tractor supply today.

14' is just enough room for it.

 

[Nikdfish]

Added some 3/8" D-rings with 3/8" grade 8 bolts. All attachment points were on frame or immediately adjacent metal (no wood). I wanted 4 at the corners for gator tie down, then added a couple more up front. May add a couple more at the back for symmetry.

Probably going to add something around the top perimeter for tarp/net tie-downs for uses other than gator transport.

 

[Nikdfish]

After using the trailer a few times I decided to add some assistance to the tailgate. With my history of back issues I really don't want to tweek it inadvertantly. So I added garage door springs to help with some of the load. In addition to the springs themselves, I also installed safety cables that run through all the hardware & springs. If something breaks or lets go then at least it will be restrained.

Total cost was about $35. I used 100lb. springs but probably could have gone with 150. As it is, the assist is enough that I don't have to use the handle at the end of the gate but can just grab the lock plate with one hand & pull it up without strain.

 

[200mph]

Assist is nice. I used Gorilla Lift to help my Dad with his trailer.

Got it adjusted to where the ramp would balance itself requiring under 5 lbs to lift.


Glad to see you ran a cable inside in the event a spring let’s go.

 

[saintdaniel]

Perfect !

 

[Nikdfish]

Lining up another trailer upgrade project. Adding brakes to the second axle. It's the only tandem axle we have without brakes on both axles. Should be getting parts in next week & will post as things progress.

 

[Nikdfish]

Parts came in, but one of the brake assemblies had partially disassembled itself in transit (big box, too much free space). Etrailer is sending a replacement (yeah! I don't have drum brake tools), but things are on hold until it comes.

 

[Guitardude]

Great trailed. When I ended up winning the 560e S4, I didn’t have a trailer other than a dump trailer to haul it, so bought a 14ft Century, tandem axel, spring loaded gate and brakes on both axles. And for straps found these and decided to give them a try and LOVE THEM. Self retracting, easy to use! Very impressed with them and with the customer service!

2" x 10' Retractable Ratchet Straps (2-Pack)

FREE STICKER PACK INCLUDED! ($9.97 VALUE) AMERICAN OWNED, FAMILY OPERATED - Join the Rhino Family & Support a USA based Father/Son Business! INSTANT SELF-RETRACTING STRAP - Easily Retract Excess Strap Length with the Click of a Button LAB TESTED IN THE USA - 1,011lbs Working Load Limit /...

www.rhinousainc.com

 

[Nikdfish]

OK, I got started on the install in the AM to avoid the heat that was coming. I jacked the trailer by lowering the tongue to the lowest position & placing jack stands at the rear. I then cranked the tongue jack untill the tires were clear of the ground.

I figured I'd do one side & then the other. I'll get started with the wiring while doing the left side as that is where the connection box is located.

Started by removinng wheel & the idler hub

at this point I could go ahead & bolt on the brake assembly to the brake flange.

and then the brake drum with pre-greased & installed bearings

Then I initiated a new brake wire connection at the wiring junction box. I'm add a 12 AWG silicon coated wire run for the new brakes. I added it to the stud that holds the brake wire from the 7 way plug.

At this point things were starting to warm up enough outside that my glasses were catching too much sweat to see, so I did one sanity check before heading into the A/C - test fitting the wheel.

It didn't fit.

First thought was I ordered the wrong hub size (5 on 5) even though I double checked measurements multiple times. So I measured my hub again, got the expected 3" (right for 5 on 5) & then measured the lug spacing on the received hub. They didn't match.

A "5 on 5" should measure 3" between centers on adjacent lugs. The received hub measured 2.75". That measurement should belong to a "5 on 4.75" hub.

I then actually took a closer look at the box the hub came in

Doh!

The Etrailer inventory sticker & bar code says "5 on 5" but the Axle Teknology label actually indicates 5 on 4.75.

Made a call, after I described what happened they asked if there was a colored dot on the drum & what color it was. I told them there was a green one & they replied "It should have been red, sorry it's the wrong size, we'll ship out replacements".

So now I'm waiting on their arrival to finish up. I'll get started on the the other side & finish up wiring while I'm waiting.

to be continued ......

 

[Nikdfish]

Well, looks like the replacement drum/hub assemblies should be here monday. I did a bit with the brake wire layout & had enough to include a home run ground line back to the junction box. No need to ground to the frame. The ground line will get ID flags to differentiate it from the brake run.