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Discussion Starter #1
The starter went bad on 2009 850d. A local shade tree mechanic told my brother he replaced a starter one time on a Gator and had to remove the motor to change the starter. Does this sound correct? I know it sure looks hard to get to but sheesh, remove the motor?

Any idea how much this would cost at a dealer?
 

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Often the term “Gator” is used rather loosely, there are numerous models in the Gator lineup.

I do not believe the engine on the 850d would need to be removed in order to access the starter ?

What tests have been completed to determine the starter is at fault?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am actually not sure it is starter but for sake of shortened forum post, that's what I posted in case it is. Upon it beginning to do all the clicking it was doing, I thought it might be solenoid... or the starter. It was really hard to get lucky and get it started, would have to crank and crank and crank before it would catch enough to spin the motor and it would finally crank.

In addition to that, the last time I got it cranked, later on I smelled burning rubber smell and shut it down. Something got fried in there... I identified it by seeing it smoulder but it wasn't the starter or solenoid. I will have to take a pic of that, I have no idea what it is.

The starter does look like trouble to get to but I'm no mechanic. I was just wondering about the shadetree guy's story because I sure don't want to take it to a dealer if I don't have to!

You are right about there being a lot of different types of Gators.
 

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My hunch is a relay failed
 

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I used to have an 855d so I assume it is similar and it was not terribly hard to replace the starters, just start by unhooking the battery as it is hard to keep the cable from grounding out once removed, then you can remove the starter bolts and battery wire with an extension and a socket. I would not buy the part at the dealer, I believe napa has a parts reference for gators, or order one off of amazon. I had one ordered from my dealer, and it was a couple weeks out and and in the mean time I took the part number and searched amazon, it was 300 dollars cheaper than the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Say, guys, we replaced the part that I saw smoking. It is called Fuel Shutoff Solenoid, brand is Woodward, part 119653-77950. It only cost $18 on ebay. We also found a 30 amp blown fuse and replaced. It didn't change a thing! I sure thought that fuel shutoff solenoid would be the culprit. It had melted wires so I just assumed it was now defective.

Is there a way to determine if my problem is the starter or the solenoid that is on top of it, such as with a multi-meter? (I assume that it is one of those two, it is still clicking when I turn the key.)

And if I replace that solenoid, can it be removed without removing the starter? (My helper did remove the starter the other day and I saw that the solenoid is just attached to it. He put it back on when we discovered the melted Fuel Shutoff Solenoid that we replaced.)

=

EDIT: In an older thread I saw where a member wrote... "Perform a voltage drop test to make certain starter is seeing battery voltage under load."

I have a multi-meter, can I do it with that? If so, I have read how to do a voltage drop test, how, exactly, would I do the hookup to determine if it's the solenoid on top the starter or the starter itself? (At this time, I am assuming it's one of these two parts.)
 

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Yes you can do a voltage drop test using a multi-meter. In a voltage drop test you're measuring voltage drop across the wiring and all the termination points. Ideally there should be zero drop, but the reality if may be a few tenths (0.2 volts). The key is to place one lead on the battery post (not the battery terminal) and the starter stud. Have someone crank and read the voltage, If there is any appreciable drop, move the probe along the wire until the voltage drop is found. Don't forget to test the ground path also.

Keep in mind at the battery there are three locations that can be tested. Battery Post, the clamp and wire going into clamp.

Why voltage drop test?... A static voltage check will typically read close to battery voltage, because only a single strand of the wire within the bundle is needed to transfer the voltage, but under load the strand of wire is incapable of supporting the current draw. (Visualize starter wire that may have 40 individual strands of wire making of the 6 gauge wire.)

There are many good youtube videos showing how to do it.

This attachment may help your understanding. Denso Starter Voltage Drop Test Voltage drop test starts at bottom of slide 4.

Hope this helps.

Report back what you find.
 
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Say, thanks for answers. Before I do that, here is a video (see below), just listen to the audio. On about the 8th time I turn the key, the starter barely spins the motor, otherwise it just does the clicking sound all the time. During this video, it never 'hit' enough to start it. This is what it has been doing all along since the problem began. I can sit there and keep doing this and eventually it will spin the motor enough to start but it might take 10 minutes. Do you think this is just a bad starter?

And where do you guys buy parts at a reasonable price? I bought the fuel shutoff solenoid for $18 on ebay and it's over $100 at greenpartstore. I haven't even checked at a dealer.

EDIT: Say, it's not engaging properly. When you turn the key, is that part with the gear teeth on it a Bendix... the part that seats into the flywheel to spin it? Is that Bendix thing a separate part from the solenoid/starter? Are those three different parts? And can you buy just the solenoid or do you have to buy the starter with it?

I know enough to be dangerous. Which isn't much!

check it out at this youtube
 
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