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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
My fuel cutoff solenoid will not pull in, but if I manually push it in with the key on it will stay in. I do have voltage on the red wire with key on, but no voltage on white wire when key in start position. Thought it was the relay on the right side frame, whic i changed, but that didn't help. I started checking pins at the relay base with the following observations:
Pin 30 had power, so fuses are good (also checked em separately)
Pin 85 (switch power has voltage when key turned)
Checked continuity between pin 87 (device power) and plug to solenoid and had continuity.
Pin 86 (ground) would not give continuity with frame which I thought was odd. I looked at the outlet and it looks like there is a small diode or resister on the outgoing wire which is confusing.
I'm leaning toward the ground on the relay but haven't quit figured out how to test it without cutting the wire and putting another wire back to battery ground. I haven't had a helper to feel the relay switch when key is put to start position, so I can't tell if relay is switching (and my arms aren't long enough!). Thanks for any advice!
 

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you didn't mention what model gator but with the information you provide it sounds like the fuel relay may be stuck in the energized position or you may have a short in a wire keeping it energized. Or the solenoid isn't closing no matter what the relay does. I'm not sure if the electrical circuit would be complete if you pulled the fuel relay out but if you did and it still starts, HMMM?
 

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Fuel solenoid only PULLS in when key switch is in the start position. That is the white wire. Red is hot key in RUN position.
reasons could be timer bad. Oil pressure switch bad, switch stuck closed. Does oil pressure light come on when key is in run position?
 

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To clearify. If we look at the far right on the schematic we see the K2 relay and below is the oil pressure switch. This schematic is showing the K2 as not engergized. To engergize the K2 pull in relay we must have a hot to the coil, which is provided by the key sw in the start position. then we must have a ground. Provided by a CLOSED oil pressure sw. Once the oil pressure increases, the pull relay drops out and the lower amperage hold coil takes over.
The diode you see is to prevent a ground back to the pull relay ground should the oil pressure drop during operation, there by energizing the hold coil and burning it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Helpful schematic

Hi All,
The gator is an old 6x4 and we might be making some progress. The schematic and text have been a big help answering and/or understanding some of my previous questions Thanks!
The next test was to pull the wire off the pressure switch and ground it while trying to start with the key. Sure enough the cutoff solenoid pulled in! Asuming a new pressure switch (which I won't receive until mid next week) passes the ground, I hope to reassemble. The one outstanding item brought up which is a concern is that I do not get the oil light to come on when the wire is attached to the oil pressure switch and key on. I forgot to have my helper check it when I grounded the oil pressure switch wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's working!

Hi all,
I received the oil pressure switch and installed it. It started right up. Special thanks to Xcopter for schematic, it could have save me buying a new cutoff solenoid and relay if I had posted earlier. Hopefully this will save some time and energy for others if they have a similar problems ...
 

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Hi all,
I received the oil pressure switch and installed it. It started right up. Special thanks to Xcopter for schematic, it could have save me buying a new cutoff solenoid and relay if I had posted earlier. Hopefully this will save some time and energy for others if they have a similar problems ...
No probelm. Glad I was of help. And I'm even more glad you can read a schematic! LOL! Its a simple system but most dont know the oil pressure switch comes into play like it does. Sorry you had to spend hard earned bucks on parts.
 

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Hey guys,

Figured I would ask in this tread since it was already discussing the issue...

I have replaced a couple of solenoids and am trying to diagnose the problem. I have also replaced the glow plug module (which has a switch in it per the diagram), the solenoid relay (which has a switch in it per the diagram), and still my voltage is not dropping like it should and my solenoid is overheating. I replaced the ignition and the oil pressure switch is working (disconnecting it causes the gator to go dead). I had a bunch of stuff torn apart earlier and it worked. The power dropped from 11.8 volts to 8 volts, then I put everything pack and it stopped switching again. Any ideas?
 

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Hi. Any chance I could get hold of a reliable wiring diagram for a diesel 6x4 gator?
I have the same problem with a mates shutoff solenoid not pulling in.
I am getting 12v on the pull in (white wire) at the solenoid so I'm picking the solenoid is faulty but I'm a bit nervous there might be another problem causing the solenoid to fail.
Especially when a genuine replacement solenoid is 300NZD
Any one had a descent run out of cheaper after market solenoid?
Cheers
 

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Gator will not shut off on a 6x4 diesel

I have a gator 6x4 diesel and the engine will not shut off. I recently changed the fuel shut off solenoid, on account of it getting hot and burning up. After installing the solenoid I started it and it did the same exact thing, and also revved up real high and blew black smoke all over the shop. I finally sealed off the air breather to kill the engine. After the air cleared I pulled the solenoid back off to see if it was working at the ignition switch. It pulled in while the key was on, and let go when the key was turned off, which led me to believe the solenoid is/was good. I had a helper help me start the gator while I held the solenoid in place and it started and smoked for a little while, then had him kill the engine and it did. So, I bolted the solenoid in place again, and started it and guess what? It started smoking real bad again and the ignition switch would not turn it off. I am really stumped and don't know where to go from here. I don't know whether the governor in the pump has anything to do with it or nor but, its crazy how I can hold the solenoid in place with my hands and it runs with little smoke, and shuts off with no problems! Unlike it being bolted down it does the opposite, smokes and does not shut off. Any helpful advice would be appreciated. later gator
 

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xcopterdoc is your go to guy and most likely will reply soon with the "true" solution but for giggles and grins my guess would be since it starts and stops with the solenoid not mounted to the gator body you may have a wire grounded keeping the solenoid energized. you could unbolt the solenoid again and check for bare/frayed wires or a discolored burn mark on the frame. xcopterdoc walked me through bringing my 97 6x4 gator back to life and I was very appreciative. I was very close to giving the thing away and it's been a great workhorse for me and fun to cruise our 5 acres with, when the weather is nice:)
 

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Diodes in relays are for the prevention of voltage spikes. Since the relay controls current/voltage to a coil, when the power to the coil is terminated, the collapsing magnetic field induces a voltage and sends it in the opposite direction. The diode prevents this reverse flow.
 

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Gator Fuel Shutoff problem

After assuming I ran out of fuel, I spent a month chasing possible fuel related problems. My gator would start fine sometimes and other times would take 20 tries. It would start better cold than hot which threw me off. I thought I had an air leak. I replaced every fuel line, fuel filter, gasket and all return lines just to be safe. Problem still existed. Reading this thread, i started chasing the fuel shutoff switch. As soon as I removed it, it started fine 5 times. I replaced it and it wouldn't start. I thought I had it figured out. I bench tested the shutoff solenoid before buying a new one and it worked fine??? I tested the wiring coming into the switch. I had great voltage on the hold side but no voltage on the engage side. I replaced the relay -$19. That still didn't do it. I bought and replaced the oil pressure switch and presto, runs like a champ again. Thank you to everyone who takes the time to share this info. It is invaluable to so many people
 

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Gator 6X4DL 1998 Yamaha Fuel shutoff solenoid

Hi

I am have problems starting my old Gator I think it is a problem with the fuel shutoff solenoid.

Everything works, just no fuel when starting.

I have check the oil pressure switch as that was the problem before.

I can not find the correct electrical drawing, can you send one please.

Also I can not find the unit on the engine, any pointers?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Gator will not shut off on a 6x4 diesel

I have a gator 6x4 diesel and the engine will not shut off. I recently changed the fuel shut off solenoid, on account of it getting hot and burning up. After installing the solenoid I started it and it did the same exact thing, and also revved up real high and blew black smoke all over the shop. I finally sealed off the air breather to kill the engine. After the air cleared I pulled the solenoid back off to see if it was working at the ignition switch. It pulled in while the key was on, and let go when the key was turned off, which led me to believe the solenoid is/was good. I had a helper help me start the gator while I held the solenoid in place and it started and smoked for a little while, then had him kill the engine and it did. So, I bolted the solenoid in place again, and started it and guess what? It started smoking real bad again and the ignition switch would not turn it off. I am really stumped and don't know where to go from here. I don't know whether the governor in the pump has anything to do with it or nor but, its crazy how I can hold the solenoid in place with my hands and it runs with little smoke, and shuts off with no problems! Unlike it being bolted down it does the opposite, smokes and does not shut off. Any helpful advice would be appreciated. later gator
I know this is only 3 years late, but I did the exact same thing today on my 6x4 gator, I was putting in a new solenoid because the last one was melted, and It felt weird when I was tightening the bolts down, when I started it, the thing was FLOORED and black smoke billowing out, I had to pinch the air tube to stop the air and killed the engine. When I removed the solenoid the metal plunger was bent, I straightened it out and put it back in and all was good, apparently when I put it in the first time it was resting on top of the thing it was supposed to be pushing in and when I tightened it down it pushed it down causing pedal to the medal action when it started.
 
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