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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a new 2012 XUV825i less than 90 days old and it has had limited use. I was operating it yesterday in 2WD and driving around the neighborhood. BTW It always felt like their was some binding in the drive line since day 1 of the purchase. Well, I saw smoke from under the bed and noticed the CV joint boot had decoupled from the joint slinging grease all over the hot parts of the engine and the shaft exiting that CV joint was way out of position. This was the joint transmitting power to the front drive axle and should be un-loaded when in 2WD? By the time I limped (<1mile) it home the joint and shaft were banging. It appears the problem originated at the center support bearing under the floor pan. That joint is also slinging grease and the support bearing is wiped out cuasing the shaft to wabble and bang. Something had to let go? Maybe the center support bearing seized and broke throwing the shaft out of line thus wiping out the CV joints? Before I take it back to the dealer I will take a better look. On anotehr note>Is it normal for these Kawasaki 3 cyls to operate in the 5K rpm range at 80%+ throttle (about 25mph)?
 

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The shaft might have been misaligned from the factory causing this problem or defective hanger bearing. This should have had the newer style hanger bearing in it already. For the high rpm's,Yes they do rap out at that rpm at that speed (worse when cold).
 

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Good keep us posted. We have a 550 S4 and the shaft came apart right in front of the CV. We got a new one under warrenty. These shafts turn all the time, the only time they are under load is when the 4wd is engaged. If you take the shaft out, you will notice the front diff spins, but the output shaft on the tranny doesnt unless you engage 4wd. I hope the dealer gets you straight and let us know.
 

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I really am concerned about this Driveshft...cv joint..Looks to be in a bind to me...Not the Best Idea..Wearing on 1 side all the time..More harder in Load situations..coming from a Master Tech. I should have looked at this rig a little more closely
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well the dealer pulled the front drive shaft running from the engine to the front diff. Seems it did come apart at the front most CV joint right under the floor board, actually between the two floor boards. No signs of heat or any debris issues. Could have been bad from the factory, could have been miss-aligned or in a bind? The JD tech theorized that it may have come apart due to switching from 2 to 4 wheel drive while underway? I have no recolection of shifting while underway and it is suppose to be shift "ON-DEMAND" anyway. The JD guys were great and warranty took care of it, they replaced the entire shaft. BTW the annoying little vibration that was in it since I first bought it is now gone? With all that said: I will not shift from 2-4 or 4-2 while on the fly even if it is a shift on demand system (regardless of what the owners manual states) Frank
 

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I dont care what they say about the on demand stuff, I still shift only when at a stop. That is just my preference.

Our shaft was messed up from the factory. The replacement has been working fine.

Glad to know you are back up and going!!!!!!
 

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I tell you what...I am a Master auto tech,,,and have been working on 4 wheel drive vehicles for a long Damn time,,,alot of vehicles will not go into 4 wheel drive shift on the Fly...The manufactor says they can but... nope.. nodda... does not work..Thats where all wheel drive came into place...I worked on a 98 Expadition the other day,,,shift on the fly..was maybe doing 10 miles an hour...took maybe 10 secs. to be in 4 wheel drive ...locked the transfer case up skidding me to a stop....In High 4...I hate Fords...Fords circle all there Mistakes and Highlight them in BLUE!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Based on what I have learned> Due to the Light Duty design of the front drive propeller shaft, its nonlinear routing to the front diff and what could be described as a underrated drive mechanism coming out of the rear transaxle coupled with a more robust unforgiving really biting front diff. It would be wise to come to a complete stop, neutralize the Trans and then shift into 4WD and do the same when disengaging the 4WD all while being on a soft surface.
 

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I tell you what...I am a Master auto tech,,,and have been working on 4 wheel drive vehicles for a long Damn time,,,alot of vehicles will not go into 4 wheel drive shift on the Fly...The manufactor says they can but... nope.. nodda... does not work..Thats where all wheel drive came into place...I worked on a 98 Expadition the other day,,,shift on the fly..was maybe doing 10 miles an hour...took maybe 10 secs. to be in 4 wheel drive ...locked the transfer case up skidding me to a stop....In High 4...I hate Fords...Fords circle all there Mistakes and Highlight them in BLUE!!!
You must be a Dodge Fan???? I never shift on the fly in any vehicle. My Ford Raptor is not shift on the fly and I am glad.

Based on what I have learned> Due to the Light Duty design of the front drive propeller shaft, its nonlinear routing to the front diff and what could be described as a underrated drive mechanism coming out of the rear transaxle coupled with a more robust unforgiving really biting front diff. It would be wise to come to a complete stop, neutralize the Trans and then shift into 4WD and do the same when disengaging the 4WD all while being on a soft surface.
Agreed.......stop and then engage.
 

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Im sad to say that my 2012 built 10/12 is going in tomorrow for what appears to be the same issue. Mine hasnt let go completely but seems to binding at times and "click clacking" then seems to just go right back to the correct spot and silence it self. It really sound like the driveshaft joints are binding but who knows. Whats weird is it really sounded like it was in the left rear wheel area but felt it literally at me feet in the drivers side. Thought i was crazy until my 8 year old daughter asked what that noise was..

Im a little leery to take it in without it making the noise constantly but my dealer says to take it in and he will mess with it until he hears the noise, apparently he has one like yours that has let loose completely. I have to admit that im afraid of tearing somethig else up continuing to drive it til it pops.. Never been my favorite method, not wired that way. Especially not on a $12,000 machine.. Wife again thinks im crazy but oh well...Hope this is a quick and painless fix...:(
 

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Im sad to say that my 2012 built 10/12 is going in tomorrow for what appears to be the same issue. Mine hasnt let go completely but seems to binding at times and "click clacking" then seems to just go right back to the correct spot and silence it self. It really sound like the driveshaft joints are binding but who knows. Whats weird is it really sounded like it was in the left rear wheel area but felt it literally at me feet in the drivers side. Thought i was crazy until my 8 year old daughter asked what that noise was..

Im a little leery to take it in without it making the noise constantly but my dealer says to take it in and he will mess with it until he hears the noise, apparently he has one like yours that has let loose completely. I have to admit that im afraid of tearing somethig else up continuing to drive it til it pops.. Never been my favorite method, not wired that way. Especially not on a $12,000 machine.. Wife again thinks im crazy but oh well...Hope this is a quick and painless fix...:(
I have to agree with you, that is a lot of money to just wait and break when you know its a problem. Sounds like you have a good dealer and hopefully them and deere will make it right.

Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Im sad to say that my 2012 built 10/12 is going in tomorrow for what appears to be the same issue. Mine hasnt let go completely but seems to binding at times and "click clacking" then seems to just go right back to the correct spot and silence it self. It really sound like the driveshaft joints are binding but who knows. Whats weird is it really sounded like it was in the left rear wheel area but felt it literally at me feet in the drivers side. Thought i was crazy until my 8 year old daughter asked what that noise was..

Im a little leery to take it in without it making the noise constantly but my dealer says to take it in and he will mess with it until he hears the noise, apparently he has one like yours that has let loose completely. I have to admit that im afraid of tearing somethig else up continuing to drive it til it pops.. Never been my favorite method, not wired that way. Especially not on a $12,000 machine.. Wife again thinks im crazy but oh well...Hope this is a quick and painless fix...:(

I have to agree with you, that is a lot of money to just wait and break when you know its a problem. Sounds like you have a good dealer and hopefully them and deere will make it right.

Keep us posted.
The mid shaft constant velocity joint is sandwiched between the floor boards. It is the most stressed of the 3 CV joints. If that joint uncouples for any reason the shafts can act like prybars dramtically stopping shaft rotation. If that happens at speed it could snap the casing on the transmission where the output shaft for the front prop shaft is located.
I think the front diff is to buffed to sustain the same damage. However, I think it is also plausable that if the shafts do seperate at speed and nothing up stream of the front diff breaks then the Gator could come to a
screeching hault?
 

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Im sad to say that my 2012 built 10/12 is going in tomorrow for what appears to be the same issue. Mine hasnt let go completely but seems to binding at times and "click clacking" then seems to just go right back to the correct spot and silence it self. It really sound like the driveshaft joints are binding but who knows. Whats weird is it really sounded like it was in the left rear wheel area but felt it literally at me feet in the drivers side. Thought i was crazy until my 8 year old daughter asked what that noise was..

Im a little leery to take it in without it making the noise constantly but my dealer says to take it in and he will mess with it until he hears the noise, apparently he has one like yours that has let loose completely. I have to admit that im afraid of tearing somethig else up continuing to drive it til it pops.. Never been my favorite method, not wired that way. Especially not on a $12,000 machine.. Wife again thinks im crazy but oh well...Hope this is a quick and painless fix...:(

I have to agree with you, that is a lot of money to just wait and break when you know its a problem. Sounds like you have a good dealer and hopefully them and deere will make it right.

Keep us posted.
The mid shaft constant velocity joint is sandwiched between the floor boards. It is the most stressed of the 3 CV joints. If that joint uncouples for any reason the shafts can act like prybars dramtically stopping shaft rotation. If that happens at speed it could snap the casing on the transmission where the output shaft for the front prop shaft is located.
I think the front diff is to buffed to sustain the same damage. However, I think it is also plausable that if the shafts do seperate at speed and nothing up stream of the front diff breaks then the Gator could come to a
screeching hault?
That kind of stuff actually freaks me out a little, that and the possibilty of stressing something else and having a larger failure later on after warranty is out..

Luckily i was able to get it to make the noise a little more consistantly, if in 4 wheel drive it will do it pretty regular..So we'll see what happens.

Dealer said that he should know something by this afternoon. I have a really good service manager that i deal with and i will give him kudos because i didnt buy the unit there. When i bought mine there was only one in town and it was olive green, i had to have green and yellow.. but I buy all parts and do all service with these guys and they have been really good to me.
 

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It is always good to hear about good dealers. I hope they get this issue resolved for you. Keep us posted.
 

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In typical "my luck fashion" the dealer could not duplicate the issue..

I'm beginning to wonder if it was that same issue or not. I was hearing the noise in the left rear wheel area.. But feeling it in the floor board area.. Now that I have it back it doesn't seem to be doing it but I have squeak in that same wheel..

What kind if bearing do these "hubs" have? I'm wondering if maybe I lost part of a bearing..just guessing not sure if that's even possible..

I hate noises like this.. Never fails I have them.. Maybe I need to learn to ignore things and not pay attention to the minor things like that...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
In typical "my luck fashion" the dealer could not duplicate the issue..

I'm beginning to wonder if it was that same issue or not. I was hearing the noise in the left rear wheel area.. But feeling it in the floor board area.. Now that I have it back it doesn't seem to be doing it but I have squeak in that same wheel..

What kind if bearing do these "hubs" have? I'm wondering if maybe I lost part of a bearing..just guessing not sure if that's even possible..

I hate noises like this.. Never fails I have them.. Maybe I need to learn to ignore things and not pay attention to the minor things like that...
I would think hub bearing failure would be unlikley, losing part of a hub bearing is even more unlikley. Like all vehicles of this nature they do make noises. I would like to put a set of smooth turf tires on mine just to guage running harmonics. The factory OEM tires can hide and/or create a host of wiggles,rattles,shakes and vibrations. So far mine is doing fine, its even a tad smoother post repairs then it was brand new.
 
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