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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I am helping my son with an older 1996 Gator Gas 6X4
We are simply trying to resurrect this old gal - and make it safe to use around the "gentleman's" farm in Northern Virginia.

This old beast has three electrical issues:
1.) someone has fiddled with the coolant temp switch that controls the electric fan and has disconnected it
2.) the charging light is on all the time - and of course, battery is not charging
3.) the oil pressure light is on all the time. (plenty of oil and appears to be an indicator issue)

Where would I locate the engine ID tag - there is supposed to be differences based on the ENGINE S/N -?

Suggestions on how to troubleshoot (without simply replacing parts) for the charging system/regulator circuit

Thanks in advance
-J-
 

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1. The coolant temp switch that controls the fan is a probe that is inserted into the radiator fins. Its not the one thats on the engine. The engine temp switch turns on the light on panel. Wasnt sure what switch you were refering to, so just wanted to clearify that.
2. If you have a multimeter, great. If you dont have one.. get one. Auto parts store, Sears, harbor frieght ect. Here is the troubleshooting for the charging system...
Charging Circuit Diagnosis - 6X4 Gas

Test Conditions:
Transmission in NEUTRAL
Engine OFF


Test/Check Point
Normal
If Not Normal
1. Voltage regulator/rectifier
Battery voltage
Check 425 Yel wire and connections. Check F1 fusible link and S2 key switch. See "Power Circuit Diagnosis - 6X4 Gas" on page 285.
2. High Capacity Alternator (If equipped)
Battery voltage
Check 202 and 201 Red wires and connections.
3. Voltage regulator/rectifier
Greater than 0 volts - less than 0.2 volts
Greater than 0.2 volts: Test voltage regulator/rectifier ground circuit.
4. Charge indicator light
(600 Brn Wire)
Battery voltage
Check 600 Brn wire and connections X12, X13.
5. Charge indicator light
Greater than 0 volts - less than 0.2 volts
0 volts: Replace bulb.
Greater than 0.2 volts: Check all connections and ground wires for open or poor connections.


Test Conditions:
Stator disconnected
Engine running at high idle


Test/Check Point
Normal
If Not Normal
6. High capacity alternator
Minimum unregulated voltage output - 45 amps at 12.2-13.8 V
Check stator leads and connector. Check flywheel magnets. Replace stator.
7. Voltage regulator/rectifier
(Machine SN -007496)
(Engine SN -038265)
Minimum 20 Amps at 12.2 -13.8 V
Replace voltage regulator/rectifier. See "Alternator Output - 4X2" on k for excessive load on electrical system.



 

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3. You must confirm that the engine actually has oil pressure. You may be able to find a manual oil pressure gauge at the auto parts store. Remove the oil pressure switch and install fittings and gauge. You will want to see at least 40 psi at wide open throttle. Of course if you dont see any at idle, shut it off. No oil pressure or low oil prssure would be an engine pump or relief valve issue. If you have plenty of oil pressure, reinstall the oil pressure switch. Leave the wire disconnected. If the oil light stays on, you have a wiring issue, if it goes out, replace the oil press switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks a bunch.
Well, I KNOW why it is not charging - the connection to the STATOR is not there. The wires appear to be broken near the big 6 pin engine harness to main wiring harness.

So, can you suggest, a procedure to remove the flywheel? Is removing the flywheel something that I can do without actually removing the engine? I clearly need to get down TO the actual stator.
Thanks
-J-
 

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Are you comfortable with removing everything needed to get back to the flywheel? It's the sort of job where the right tools can make it go much smoother. I don't know if the engine shaft on yours is tapered but the clutch removal tool will make getting it off much easier. You don't want to go crazy prying and pounding (if you do, be careful) as the clutch is an aluminum casting and you risk bending the engine crank shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, I am comfortable... (Well, at least I am not a crazy.. I understand that I don't want to break or bend or ?? Otherwise ruin it). It **appears** from what I am seeing! that the flywheel is on the opposite side of the engine from the clutch. I have removed the plastic housing/shield and the actual flywheel nut. It seems like I might need a "puller" to remove the flywheel itself in order to get to the stator. While the space is tight, I am thinking that it looks reasonable to remove the flywheel and access the stator without removing the engine from the frame, however, I was hoping someone here on the board, with experience could comment. Am I digging myself a huge hole? Should I just bite the bullet, pull the engine out an put it on the bench? Are there "tricks" to removing/reinstalling this flywheel in order to access the stator?

Clearly, the wires from the stator are NOT connected.. So, in order to go any further on repair of the charging system, I will need to access the stator itself, in order to repair/replace.

The previous owner, simply attached a battery charger every time he parked the machine...
And never bothered to even try to repair this condition. This will work in the immediate nearer term, however, clearly has negative impacts long term.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions
-J-
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I wanted to update this thread.
I ended up purchasing a BOLT style puller from Harbor Freight...it however, does NOT have metric bolts... I went to my local JD dealer, purchased two 8MM bolts - and was able to pull the flywheel nicely.

I discovered that the previous owner had completely removed the STATOR, and, something has happened - there are NO magnets on the flywheel. I have ordered a new STATOR and flywheel - (actually a used flywheel) - a NEW one is over $300 - Progress is being made... more as the story unfolds
-J-
 

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Good work Cirrus! This is really good thing to be doing with your son. My boy who is now 34, and I rebuilt a dirt bike, an old pickup and did lots of things like that together. Every second of it was time well spent?

Do you have a Cirrus? A friend of mine has one. I have a little time in it. It's quite a departure from my Cessna 140.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
MBDiagMan,
Yes sir - I have a 2009 SR20 - Perspective - based at KFDK (Frederick MD)
I am **trying** to teach my son, (a brilliant software guy) how to work around the hardware side of the world as well. He simply has never worked on "things"- he has excelled at the "thinking" soft side of the world, and has done well for himself. He recently purchased a large home on 10 acres, and is discovering that there are many many areas where he is completely at a loss for "how to" - hence the call to dear ol' dad. Rather than do things FOR him, I am trying to have these calls become "teachable moments". I have been helping him select tools, to build his tool box, and, trying to work with him to show and instruct how the physical world works.
I also get to spend special time with my grandson - so, we all win.

I helped him go "get" this old tired Gator, haul it home, and together we are working on some of these "issues" - we didn't pay much, and, of course, now, as we do troubleshooting on the problems, are discovering that we have MANY more challenges ahead.
This will never be a "showcase" - however, we intend to have it a reliable piece of equipment - hopefully without breaking the bank in parts costs. We will see. Progress is happening - rather slowly, but, in the right direction just the same.
 

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I'm kind of the opposite of your son. While I was growing up my Dad had a good size independent auto repair shop, so I've been fixing things all my life. After the Army I got an Electrical Engineering degree, but migrated toward the software side of things about ten years into my career and had some really successful years in the middle of my career.

I am now in my sunset years and perfectly content to repair, build and tinker.

I bought a taildragger when pipelines started coming through my place thinking that I would end up with a grass strip out of the deal. It didn't work out, so my plane is hangared 35 miles away in Hugo, Oklahoma, KHHW.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Doc,
Maybe we can cross paths sometime - I will be making a LONG xc in Oct - from Maryland to Vegas for the Cirrus M12 Migration. I have not done all my planning yet, but we have to stop for fuel someplace...

My parts (stator and flywheel) arrived yesterday, but, now, the local JD dealer does not have the screws that I need to re-assemble - so, back on the wait... sigh.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, a quick update.
The new (used) stator and flywheel arrived (EBAY saved me a bunch) and when re-assembled, it actually works! Hoorah! I reconnected the radiator fan, and filled the radiator - it seems to work just as the book suggests!!

Still have an oil pressure light, so, next is the oil pressure sender - for $17.50 -
progress is happening - but, at least it is charging it's own battery again.
-J-
 
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