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Discussion Starter #1
I wanted to pick your brain on our 2016 XUV825i power steering issue. This thing has been sitting in our shed and gets seasonal usage for the most part, far as I know the power steering worked when it was parked. The battery went to shit and I found a couple cells slushed up, it would not even jump for me when I recently picked it back up for the power steering recall for the shaft falling out (seriously JD?!?).

Put a new battery in it and I noticed the EPAS dash light would come on and the system would shut off if I cranked it hard to the right but worked fine turning counter clockwise to left. However, I read somewhere that the system is very finicky with voltage and so I jumped it with my truck and the system worked fine but would pop the light and shut off if I disconnected the jumper cables and turned right. I cleaned up the 3 wire ground to the seat frame, cleaned the already flawless battery connectors, and disconnected all my aftermarket winch hookups and sprayer wires. The system pushes around 14.02 volts at idle.

I've checked all the fuses I can find. There's 4 on what I assume is the computer under the 'firewall', there's 3 or 4 clipped onto the driverside, and then there's a cluster of minifuses and relays. I haven't seen any tell tale corrosion and all fuses look good, I've tested most for continuity but they don't have a damn thing labeled so I don't know what any of it goes to. Dash panel is lit up.

Where exactly is this C97 relay?

I think I found the breaker mentioned by the battery. Its has two positive wires nutted to a fuse that is attached way underneath near the center and parking break/differential cables. I have voltage across both sides of this breaker.

I have checked three connectors to the EPAS unit. One big multipin connector, a big red single wire connector, and another hidden connector down by the gas pedal.

I jacked Gater up and the power steering does its thing left and right as it should. However, turning left the wheel has a thud and a hard firm stop. Turning right there's resistance, hard crank the wheel another half turn or so, then thud and a hard stop. With it up in the air the EPAS error light turns on the second I hit resistance to the right almost as if it detects it has turned too far. Back on the ground it does as I described and turns easy left and pops the light soon as you turn right. Can't imagine the rack is bad as it is pretty new and worked when parked. I'm thinking next step is to disconnect the rack from the EPAS and see if I still get a light turning right.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Gater is at the dealership at the moment, however the tech was nice enough to give me a printout of the six potential trouble codes for the EPAS. If anyone is familiar with jumping OBD1/2 test plugs to count the flashes it is very similar. I'll post a scan later but his printout is barely readable...

The EPAS light will come on and/or flash at various intervals and brightnesses.
T1 is 1.2s
T2 is light flashes for 0.3s
T3 is light flashes for 1.8s

Fault Code 1:
-Continuous on with LOW intensity means IG and Power ground (0V) not connected, fix is to correct the wiring harness.
-Continuous on with HIGH intensity means Power Ground (0V) not connected, fix is to correct the wiring harness.
-No indication, IG, Power Gnd (0V), and Power (+12V) not connected, fix is to correct the wiring harness.
-Continuous on with High intensity means power (+12V) and power gnd (0V) not connected, fix is to correct the wiring harness.

Fault Code 2
-Continuous on, means EPAS internal failure caused by torque sensor fault, temp sensor fault, motor/h-bridge shorted/over-current, and/or ECU fault/damage. Fix is IPAS is damaged replace EPAS
Dont have any clue how the hell you're supposed to differentiate from fault code 1.

Fault Code 3
-off then 1.8s flash, off, then .3s flash. Means low battery voltage protection (less than 10.5V) or high battery voltage protection (over 16V). Power supply input source is poor/disconnected. Check battery voltage, repair charging circuit if necessary.

Fault Code 4
-off then two quick blinks .3s long each. Means speed sensor disconnected. Fix is speed sensor is faulty. Check/replace vehicle speed sensor or wire harness to EPAM.

Fault Code 5
-no indication if ECU PCB temp is over 77.5 degrees C the assist ramps down.
-off then three quick .3s flashes means temp over 102.5 degree C. Indicates available assist is less than 10%

Fault Code 6
-off then blinks four times .3s each.
-Steering is held at stop for over 6 seconds assist ramps down
-steering is held at stop for over 28 seconds led indication, available assist is 10% or less
 

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JD mechanic genuinely felt bad, he chased every wire he said but EPAS is faulty he thinks. $1750 repair bill we're facing.

Pretty damn ridiculous for a 16 month old machine that has very low hours on it and only one oil change!!! We're a government agency that uses it seasonally, it sits in the shed 8 months out of the year...not like we're using it every day on a farm. I use this machine for low speed spraying with a boom and hand spraying with a gun, power steering and government discount contract is why I chose this machine. You spend that much money on a new car and you get more than a one year warranty!
 

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JD mechanic genuinely felt bad, he chased every wire he said but EPAS is faulty he thinks. $1750 repair bill we're facing.

Pretty damn ridiculous for a 16 month old machine that has very low hours on it and only one oil change!!! We're a government agency that uses it seasonally, it sits in the shed 8 months out of the year...not like we're using it every day on a farm. I use this machine for low speed spraying with a boom and hand spraying with a gun, power steering and government discount contract is why I chose this machine. You spend that much money on a new car and you get more than a one year warranty!
Look at Power Sports Nation in Norfolk NE, perhaps they have a used EPAS in their inventory? We all share your pain !
 

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What you're saying is disturbing to me. My 825i is used similarly to yours. I've had it for almost seven months and have only put nine hours on it! There should be a longer warranty and John Deere should take care of your problem without cost.
 

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Good deal Schmitey with the post. If the light stays on it is a power supply or a ground problem. I posted a reply to another Power Steering problem on the Forum. Do a search for it. I have been working on these units since they came out and I have never had an EPAS unit go bad. They will protect themselves if the voltage or ground is not what it needs to be.
 

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Any update on this? My issue is getting worse. If I turn to the left there is a catch and release type of feel as you turn until the epas just turns off and get a solid epas light. So on this grpund by the battery is I was to grind the paint off is there issue with corrosion and rusting? Need help as dad can't turn this thing with out the epas and about rolled it off the dam and into the pond. OP also mentioned something about "IG and power ground" what iand where is this. Our dealership say it needs a new epas at 1700ish bucks. :( If the epas is bad has anyone put an aftermarket unit on in place of OE?
 

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Hey noticon75,
I read through this thread and it almost sound like its more of a mechanical issue than an electrical issue. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sounds to me like the steering shafts are either hitting something or binding at that catch point. Try go get a good line of sight on the shafts and have someone turn the wheel to the catch point. One of your steering shafts may be rubbing the frame at that point, or its possible that the shafts are just at a bad angle causing the U-joints at the end to bind up. If you find that this is the case, you can probably get in there and loosen up all the mounting brackets and shaft joints till you find the sweet spot where everything bolts up and turns freely without the catch. Either way, the ECU is sensing the catch point and throwing a code. If that doesn't work and you find there there is actually an electrical problem, I can get you a forum member discount on one of our power steering kits. They're waaaay cheaper than the factory kits and pretty much the industry standard for SxS's. Shoot me a PM if you're interested, but check the shafts first. It may be a quick fix.
-Erik
 

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Hey noticon75,
I read through this thread and it almost sound like its more of a mechanical issue than an electrical issue. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sounds to me like the steering shafts are either hitting something or binding at that catch point. Try go get a good line of sight on the shafts and have someone turn the wheel to the catch point. One of your steering shafts may be rubbing the frame at that point, or its possible that the shafts are just at a bad angle causing the U-joints at the end to bind up. If you find that this is the case, you can probably get in there and loosen up all the mounting brackets and shaft joints till you find the sweet spot where everything bolts up and turns freely without the catch. Either way, the ECU is sensing the catch point and throwing a code. If that doesn't work and you find there there is actually an electrical problem, I can get you a forum member discount on one of our power steering kits. They're waaaay cheaper than the factory kits and pretty much the industry standard for SxS's. Shoot me a PM if you're interested, but check the shafts first. It may be a quick fix.
-Erik

@SuperATV— fantastic advice! Thank you for sponsoring gatorforums.net. You have some awesome products!
Please consider adding more Gator specific aftermarket parts to your inventory.
John Deere Gator’s have been overlooked by aftermarket companies, SuperATV has a HUGE opportunity to be the leading source for the Gator product line.
 

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@SuperATV— fantastic advice! Thank you for sponsoring gatorforums.net. You have some awesome products!
Please consider adding more Gator specific aftermarket parts to your inventory.
John Deere Gator’s have been overlooked by aftermarket companies, SuperATV has a HUGE opportunity to be the leading source for the Gator product line.
Thanks man! From what I've seen, it seems to be a fairly common issue for a couple machines including the Gator.

PS: I just saw a brand spanking new XUV 835 out in the shop. Not sure what's in store for it, but at least we have a little green and yellow represented here. :) You guys can always shoot me a PM for weekly discount codes. I'm not always on here, but I'll get to you as fast as I can.

-Erik
 

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Joined
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2,665 Posts
@SuperATV— fantastic advice! Thank you for sponsoring gatorforums.net. You have some awesome products!
Please consider adding more Gator specific aftermarket parts to your inventory.
John Deere Gator’s have been overlooked by aftermarket companies, SuperATV has a HUGE opportunity to be the leading source for the Gator product line.
Thanks man! From what I've seen, it seems to be a fairly common issue for a couple machines including the Gator.

PS: I just saw a brand spanking new XUV 835 out in the shop. Not sure what's in store for it, but at least we have a little green and yellow represented here. :) You guys can always shoot me a PM for weekly discount codes. I'm not always on here, but I'll get to you as fast as I can.

-Erik

@SuperATV— please post photos of the 835 when complete !
 
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