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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The old 97 gator starts up great, the temp indicator light is always on but after following advice from the Xcopdoc, I removed the wire and the light went out, he's always right:). Since I was going to replace the temp switch I figured I might as well put in a new thermostat as well. When I pulled the t-stat housing off I found it dry as a bone. The previous owner was generally very "thorough" with maintenance and I only added coolant thru the radiator cap to top it off thinking that would be fine. The oil pressure light also comes on after about 5 minutes when first started and then about 2 minutes after it warms up and is restarted again. After filling the motor jacket with coolant I tried running it to feel if the hoses got hot but the oil pressure light always came on and I don't want to burn up the engine, oil level is ok. So, is it possible the water pump is not working, or the t-stat is not opening, causing the motor to heat up too much making the oil pressure switch to "open" since it's a NC switch? which I'll test with a gauge. And how can I prove the water pump is working without running the gator too long? (I should be able to remove the t-stat to prove water flow)And the really big question; How the Hell do you remove that plastic housing under the seats covering the radiator? I tried removing the seats but the bolts are rusted and feel like they just spin but it looks like it should just come out without removing the seats.
I kind of answer my own questions but it helps to think it out and get positive feedback or someone to tell me I'm an Idiot and to DO THIS! Either way works for me
 

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Ahh.. you again..LOL!
Is your radiator cap inline on the top radiator hose? Or is it on the radiator under the seat? These things are a bear to get the air bled out.
Only way to get that under seat panel off is to remove the seats or go to cutting.
Never had any real good success getting the seat bolts out once they start spinning. You can try removing the seat foam to gain access. Then glue it all back together.
The oil pressure light/switch has nothing to do with anything except the oil pressure. Check oil pressure with a manual gauge. If all is ok I would replace the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yes, me again. with every success I encounter another challange and I will not go quietly:). The radiator cap is under the bed and I am trying to gain access to the bleed on the radiator per the manual's procedure. What is the worst case scenario if there is air in the coolant besides it being less efficient in removing the heat from the engine and the increased cause of oxidation leading to rust and corrosion, it's such a little thing:(. I didn't want to pay $100 per seat for new ones but now that I've put on new wheels and tires its starting to look pretty sassy. Thanks for the excellent info as always.
 

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Any air will make circulation of the coolant impossible. The pump will cavitate. Also, the coolant sensors/switches will not work correctly in air. The problem with your set up is that the engine sits higher than the radiator. So.. without special gizmos and such, the easiest way I have found to purge the air is as follows.
Remove thermostat housing and thermostat. Fill engine thru tstat housing. Reinstall tstat and housing. Get a long broom stick and place it under the radiator hose close to where the cap is. Lift the hose up and place stick across frame rails, left to right. This will raise the hose enough. Fill system thru cap openning. Leave cap off. There should be a cap/plug on or very near the tstat housing. Remove the plug and wait for coolant to flow clearly from hole. Keep it full thru the cap openning. reinstall plug, reinstall cap. squeeze the top and bottom hoses, using them as lil pumps to circulate fluid. Check level under cap again. add as needed. Bleed again at tstat housing as needed. Start and run at high idle. Top hose should start getting warm in a few minutes. After a while, the top of the radiator and lower hose will begin to warm. You have flow. Run wide open throttle and wait for fan to come on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
xcopterdoc, back to the 97 diesel 6x4 gator; ok, I've got a new t-stat, O-ring and temp switch on order and plan to change the oil and oil filter at the same time. After leaving the gator last weekend I told my wife I don't remember actually seeing the oil filter. So did I just not notice it, I've read that some have filters and some do not? I'm sure it's not underneath the motor. And assuming I find that I have a low oil pressure issue can the oil regulating valve be restricted causing the low pressure? can it be removed, cleaned and reinstalled or will it need to be replaced? By the way, how was that "cold" front that went through the south last week? If I remember, you're from the southern region that saw some very cold temps.
 

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All diesels have oil filters. Filter is to the rear on machine, almost dead center on engine block. The pipe that the oil filter screws on to includes the oil presssure relief valve. Once you remove the oil filter you will see a short section of pipe with a nut, loosen nut and unscrew pipe from block. That is your oil pressure relief valve.
The cold front and snow here sucked! 9 inches here in the Piedmont of NC. 70 and spring like today! I'm ready to plant the garden! lol
 

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The cold front and snow here sucked! 9 inches here in the Piedmont of NC. 70 and spring like today! I'm ready to plant the garden! lol
I am further west and we had less snow than the easterners had on at least two occasions. NE corner NC gets a lot more snow than some realize due to the noreasters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
ahh, wasn't looking for a "toddler" oil filter

I picked up a new oil filter today, after I saw it I immediatly asked if it was half price since it was only half a filter:) no wonder I didn't see it, I haven't steam cleaned the engine yet and have bigger dirt build up in spots that could be mistaken as some sort of "part". You mention "oil relief" and the manual mentions "oil regulator" but both descriptions are the same as; remove oil filter and loosen nut to remove. So I'm looking for all possibilities to create low oil pressure: 1) failing oil pump since switch opens to turn indicator light off..for awhile 2) dirty oil/oil filter restricting flow 3) oil relief/regulator dirty causing restricted flow or the pressure switch itself is failing?? By the way, I can't find what size the oil pressure switch is to install a gauge to check pressure, can you help? 1/4 NPT? or something "European":)?
Good to hear it's warming up on the East coast, but it's only February, hang on one more month:D
one more question; I replace the secondary and primary air filters but the cap for the canister is missing, could this cause a big enough problem that I need to replace it or not really a "big" deal?
 

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Oil pressure switch is like a 1/8 NPT I believe. I never really checked it I just use the fitting that came with my oil pressure gauge test set. You need to have the cap on the air filter canister. may have to buy the whole canister. maybe.
 
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