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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

First post here, hoping find a few answers.

I recently inherited an old 4x2 Gator from my father. I would like to know the year. The product ID number is W004x2x004329. Is that also the serial number??

I have a few questions that I haven't been able to find the answers...

1. How fast should the gator run? Accordingly to my phone's GPS it tops out around 8 mph... hell my golf cart is faster than that! I had a guy look at it over the winter and he said he thought the brake has stuck, so he worked the leakage back and forth and thought it would be good. I wasn't sure if it was any better or not... so I had my wife work the brake pedal and I watched the leakage and it only moves a little, I didn't measure the amount but I would guess not more than 1/2". Does that seem correct??

2. How easy is it to push one of these in neutral and on level ground? I've tried to push it in my garage and it seemed fairly hard, I could make it roll but wouldn't want to push it for any distance.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Dave
 

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Yes that is the serial number.

Suggest you invest in the workshop manual as it can be invaluable when doing the work yourself.

I think the top speed for most 4x2 is 20 mph.

My 855D doesn't push so easy when in neutral. But it is heavier and with the stock bar type tires (not turf).

I don't think there is a "common root cause" for this, so you'll have to do some diagnostics to determine if drive train or engine related.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply!
I looked my serial number up from your spread sheet and didn't see where my number would fall..??

And suggestions on where to buy a workshop manual from?

If I can get it to run close to 20 mph, I would be much happier.

The engine appears to be turning max RMPs and the clutches appear to be working.
With the transmission in neutral I can see the clutch and driven clutch move through there complete range of movements. But going down the driveway, under load, they don't move through the complete range and the engine still sounds like it's at max RMPs.
It does have a lot of hours on the ol girl, somewhere around 2600.

Thanks again.
 

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Hello,

First post here, hoping find a few answers.

I recently inherited an old 4x2 Gator from my father. I would like to know the year. The product ID number is W004x2x004329. Is that also the serial number??

I have a few questions that I haven't been able to find the answers...

1. How fast should the gator run? Accordingly to my phone's GPS it tops out around 8 mph... hell my golf cart is faster than that! I had a guy look at it over the winter and he said he thought the brake has stuck, so he worked the leakage back and forth and thought it would be good. I wasn't sure if it was any better or not... so I had my wife work the brake pedal and I watched the leakage and it only moves a little, I didn't measure the amount but I would guess not more than 1/2". Does that seem correct??

2. How easy is it to push one of these in neutral and on level ground? I've tried to push it in my garage and it seemed fairly hard, I could make it roll but wouldn't want to push it for any distance.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Dave
This Gator appears to predate (1996) information in the database. Give both clutch’s a through cleaning with hot soapy water and/or non chlorinated brake cleaner followed by compressed air. A new belt might be in order as well.
Copies of the Technical Manual can be found online, check ebay.
 

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The 4x2 gator had 2 clutch variants for top speeds of 15mph and 18mph. I'm not sure if there's any information contained in the serial number as to which one it's equipped with. The primary clutch spring (not visible without disassembly) for the 15mph variant is blue, and the 18mph variant is white. I haven't seen the two side by side, but if I had to guess, I would say the blue spring is stiff enough or wound in such a way that it won't allow the clutch to fully shift out.

I've been going through diagrams and parts lists for different models lately myself. I have a 4x2 TURF (pedal start like a golf cart) that I'm repowering and had to reconfigure the clutch to allow the engine to idle.

Aside from that, give the clutches a thorough cleaning and lubrication with a dry lubricant.
Check the plastic "buttons" on the driven clutch for wear
Check the belt for wear
Check the throttle cables and linkages for slop
Check the bolt under the gas pedal. That limits how much throttle you can apply, and is the manufacturer's designated method for dialing down the top speed of the gator.
Check the brake linkage and caliper (should be a single disc brake on the standard 4x2) to make sure it's not bound up or dragging the brake

To get to 20 I think you'd have to tweak the governor. They're geared very low and just not meant to go that fast, and unless you're on smooth ground, you really don't want to.
 

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Seems like you've gotten some great advice from some of the forum members to work with.

With respect to manuals, you can find the appropriate manual codes for your model using this site: JD Manuals

Can you use your phone or other GPS to get an accurate top end on flat ground. If only 8mph, and the primary clutch will go through the full range of motion when rear jacked up off the ground (be safe) with no load. I'm thinking it is a HP or increased drag issue. If the clutches are stuck, they shouldn't move completely through the range of motion with no load.

Also measure the belt width to make certain it is within specifications and uniform throughout its length.

If you find the top speed correlates with the low speed option, you'll at least know what needs to be changed.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
All,
Thanks for all the good leads! I did use my cellphone GPS to clock the blazing speed (8mph) on my flat paved driveway. I have observed the clutches working while in neutral and the both move through their range of motion. I will jack it up over the weekend and see if it changes when it's in gear and no load. Good Idea!

I'm still stuck on the idea of a dragging brake and I don't see any external caliper to check for drag, I'm guessing that's on the turf model. I'm thinking the brake is in the transaxle. After I check it out without a load I'm thinking about loosening the brake linkage up and seeing if the leaver moves more. With the bed on it's not the easiest thing to get to...

Thanks again for all the help.
 

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The 4x2 uses a wet brake in the gearbox, yes.

The external disc I was thinking of is on the bunker rake (again, same setup with some minor variations as the gators)

The Turf model has a solid tubular rear axle with dual drum brakes like a golf cart.
 

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The 4x2 gator had 2 clutch variants for top speeds of 15mph and 18mph. I'm not sure if there's any information contained in the serial number as to which one it's equipped with. The primary clutch spring (not visible without disassembly) for the 15mph variant is blue, and the 18mph variant is white. I haven't seen the two side by side, but if I had to guess, I would say the blue spring is stiff enough or wound in such a way that it won't allow the clutch to fully shift out.

I've been going through diagrams and parts lists for different models lately myself. I have a 4x2 TURF (pedal start like a golf cart) that I'm repowering and had to reconfigure the clutch to allow the engine to idle.

Aside from that, give the clutches a thorough cleaning and lubrication with a dry lubricant.
Check the plastic "buttons" on the driven clutch for wear
Check the belt for wear
Check the throttle cables and linkages for slop
Check the bolt under the gas pedal. That limits how much throttle you can apply, and is the manufacturer's designated method for dialing down the top speed of the gator.
Check the brake linkage and caliper (should be a single disc brake on the standard 4x2) to make sure it's not bound up or dragging the brake

To get to 20 I think you'd have to tweak the governor. They're geared very low and just not meant to go that fast, and unless you're on smooth ground, you really don't want to.
I have same gator as you, i am having trouble getting it to exceed 10mph and it is very sluggish and has no low end pull when going up a slight hill. Have new roller assembly and spring on primary and secondary Buttons are fine. Any suggestions?
 

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I have same gator as you, i am having trouble getting it to exceed 10mph and it is very sluggish and has no low end pull when going up a slight hill. Have new roller assembly and spring on primary and secondary Buttons are fine. Any suggestions?
While I don't disagree clutching including the belt can be an issue, have you confirmed the engine is in 100% working order and capable of rated horsepower? Concerned about the sluggish and no low end comment.
 

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I have same gator as you, i am having trouble getting it to exceed 10mph and it is very sluggish and has no low end pull when going up a slight hill. Have new roller assembly and spring on primary and secondary Buttons are fine. Any suggestions?
Did you change the belt? A belt that is glazed can still be within in the width spec, if a belt has been glazed it will not grab the sheaves and slip through the shift ratios.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Ok, ran a couple of tests yesterday. One pass pass was on my driveway and videotaped the driven clutch, couldn't really see the primary clutch but both applied to me to be working. The driven clutch did not open very much. Then I jacked the machine up in my garage and videotaped that pass. It was clear that without a load the driven clutch opened up more. I will attach the videos here for your opinions. Now I'm leaning towards my old gator is just tired, as I stated earlier she had a little over 2600 hrs. I think my neighbor has a compression tester, I'll pull the plug and post that number next.
Hopefully I'll be able to upload the videos, if that fails I'll post a couple of still shots.
Thanks again for all the advice!
Ok, they are too big, standby for photos or shorter videos. ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Here's the videos.
The first one is on my driveway.

This one is in my garage.

Please let me know if the links do not work.

Thanks again.
 

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Here's the videos.
The first one is on my driveway.

This one is in my garage.

Please let me know if the links do not work.

Thanks again.
Have you throughly cleaned both clutch’s with hot soapy water and or non chlorinated brake cleaner followed by compressed air? Have you changed the belt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have not cleaned the clutch's yet. How do you clean the primary clutch? The driven clutch appears to be straight forward, being it's on open design. I did try another belt and no change.
 

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I have not cleaned the clutch's yet. How do you clean the primary clutch? The driven clutch appears to be straight forward, being it's on open design. I did try another belt and no change.
The best way to clean the clutch’s is to remove them from the machine. In order to the the primary clutch you must remove the dome cover.

Was the belt you swapped new?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok, Thanks
The belt was new and it was a little short. I ordered the wrong one so I set it back. While it was on I did go for a quick test run and the GPS speed was the same, about 8-9 mph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Bradhill,
Cleaning the clutch got me to 11-12 mph. Thanks!!
Before I cleaning the clutches, I check the compression and it was 120 psi, with having 2600+ hours on the old girl I didn't think that was so bad.
I understand there are two different clutches, one 15 mph and one 18 mph. Can I put the 18 mph clutch on my Gator??

Thanks again for all the help!
 

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I'm pretty sure the only difference between the clutches is the spring. At least in my comparisons across parts diagrams, that's the only part I could find that had a different number. Weights seem to correlate to engine type rather than speed. The springs were coded (at least origninally) Blue (15mph) and White (18mph). I just bought a replacement 18mph spring and it was sort of a reddish brown when it arrived though.
 
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