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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
If you have an air filter outside the cab, a suitable snorkel will cut down on all the dirt thrown into the filters by the rear tire and general road dust. I won't go over what the instruction book will say, but show some tricks, and one major JD "NOT plug and play" aspect. Let's go.
14605


With the bed up and the side access panel off, this is the original configuration. The absurd intake is on the left.

14606


You need studs installed. It's a self tapping into the body, but the stud is M8. Best way to drive is to use an oversized lock nut as a spacer and a standard M8 nut (not included). Careful on the torque.

14607


Use a combo wrench and your metric socket to remove the M8. This method retained the install torque.
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NOT PLUG AND PLAY. The window guard protrudes too much. If you use stud extensions, the snorkel will tilt too much to the rear. I traced the snorkel and used an air grinder to cut off the offending section. I'm putting rubber tubing on the open slats so if something hits them, it's a bit more cushioned if the window is hit. I'll have to wait until next week to get more tubing. This is 3/4" but I'll see if I can double up on it with 1" to preclude window slap.
14609


JD talks about a self tapping screw, but what the bottom screw on the snorkel is just a longer version of what you remove. The flex hose curls around. The JD hose clamps are SAE and too long for the inlet connection. I'll have to replace with a shorter one.

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The job is complete except for more rubber tubing. I replaced the filters and closed everything up. The fit is tight. Make sure you install the foam pads in the correct location. Also, JD provides a replacement bolt/nut that goes on the forward part of the bed. The stock nut can scrape the snorkel body. Total time was 2.5 hours. Not having to cut a window guard and going with my stud install solution should cut this one down to an hour. Have fun if you do it. Nice upgrade.
 

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Awesome write up CaptSeabee, thank you for taking the time to document your project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Little bit of an update. The inherent flow restriction of the snorkel does make a very slight performance hit. Doubt you'd notice it on an 835. Still glad I did it. The other is increased noise in the cab due to direct contact of the bed to the adhesive pad on the snorkel. It goes away if you lift the bed very slightly. However that means the lift ram is doing all the supporting vs. the six rail pads and the two outer pads. So, I'll tinker with thicker pads on the rails and removing the outer pad on the snorkel. Should know the results in a week. The performance dip will be academic if I decide to turbo this one as I did my 855D. Or, since I'm getting rid of the fuel control sleeve, a slight adjustment of the feed should make that go away and then some.
 

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Thanks for sharing.

Do you think install without window guard would give better clearance between cab and bed?

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The window guard would have no effect on the bed/cab gap IF the snorkel was dimensionally a bit different. As it is now, tilting the snorkel back enough to press against the guard means it's not flush with the cab and will run into the bed. JD could have made the snorkel so you could mount it in either configuration by using a stand off grommet for original window configuration. That would have the benefit of further noise isolation from the cab. I have some closed cell foam adhesive sheets coming in next week which should overcome the noise transfer to the cab. The noise is actually coming from portions of the snorkel which make direct contact with the cab. JDs attempt at a 1 inch long pad to isolate 2 feet of snorkel is pretty lame.
 

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The window guard would have no effect on the bed/cab gap IF the snorkel was dimensionally a bit different. As it is now, tilting the snorkel back enough to press against the guard means it's not flush with the cab and will run into the bed. JD could have made the snorkel so you could mount it in either configuration by using a stand off grommet for original window configuration. That would have the benefit of further noise isolation from the cab. I have some closed cell foam adhesive sheets coming in next week which should overcome the noise transfer to the cab. The noise is actually coming from portions of the snorkel which make direct contact with the cab. JDs attempt at a 1 inch long pad to isolate 2 feet of snorkel is pretty lame.
Are you using Dynamat or similar?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Final update as I worked out the last of the annoyances. Big one was the vibration of the snorkel going into the cab. Get some sheets or strips of 1/4" firm foam with adhesive backing. Outline the cab with a Sharpie along the snorkel. Remove snorkel. Place strips in each indented section and on the ridges on the cab side. You'll need a longer bottom screw. Remove any foam that was placed on the exposed side of the snorkel. Torque properly and voila', no more vibration through the cab. I used:

XCEL Value Pack, Neoprene Foam Anti Vibration Pads with Adhesive 6" X 6" X 1/4", Made in USA (8 Pieces)

Anything similar will work fine.
 
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