Very cool install. Some innovative ideas.
Snorkel Install 865R
If you have an air filter outside the cab, a suitable snorkel will cut down on all the dirt thrown into the filters by the rear tire and general road dust. I won't go over what the instruction book will say, but show some tricks, and one major JD "NOT plug and play" aspect. Let's go.
![14605]()
With the bed up and the side access panel off, this is the original configuration. The absurd intake is on the left.
![14606]()
You need studs installed. It's a self tapping into the body, but the stud is M8. Best way to drive is to use an oversized lock nut as a spacer and a standard M8 nut (not included). Careful on the torque.
![14607]()
Use a combo wrench and your metric socket to remove the M8. This method retained the install torque.
![14608]()
NOT PLUG AND PLAY. The window guard protrudes too much. If you use stud extensions, the snorkel will tilt too much to the rear. I traced the snorkel and used an air grinder to cut off the offending section. I'm putting rubber tubing on the open slats so if something hits them, it's a bit more cushioned if the window is hit. I'll have to wait until next week to get more tubing. This is 3/4" but I'll see if I can double up on it with 1" to preclude window slap.
![14609]()
JD talks about a self tapping screw, but what the bottom screw on the snorkel is just a longer version of what you remove. The flex hose curls around. The JD hose clamps are SAE and too long for the inlet connection. I'll have to replace with a shorter one.
![14612]()
The job is complete except for more rubber tubing. I replaced the filters and closed everything up. The fit is tight. Make sure you install the foam pads in the correct location. Also, JD provides a replacement bolt/nut that goes on the forward part of the bed. The stock nut can scrape the snorkel body. Total time was 2.5 hours. Not having to cut a window guard and going with my stud install solution should cut this one down to an hour. Have fun if you do it. Nice upgrade.
With the bed up and the side access panel off, this is the original configuration. The absurd intake is on the left.
You need studs installed. It's a self tapping into the body, but the stud is M8. Best way to drive is to use an oversized lock nut as a spacer and a standard M8 nut (not included). Careful on the torque.
Use a combo wrench and your metric socket to remove the M8. This method retained the install torque.
NOT PLUG AND PLAY. The window guard protrudes too much. If you use stud extensions, the snorkel will tilt too much to the rear. I traced the snorkel and used an air grinder to cut off the offending section. I'm putting rubber tubing on the open slats so if something hits them, it's a bit more cushioned if the window is hit. I'll have to wait until next week to get more tubing. This is 3/4" but I'll see if I can double up on it with 1" to preclude window slap.
JD talks about a self tapping screw, but what the bottom screw on the snorkel is just a longer version of what you remove. The flex hose curls around. The JD hose clamps are SAE and too long for the inlet connection. I'll have to replace with a shorter one.
The job is complete except for more rubber tubing. I replaced the filters and closed everything up. The fit is tight. Make sure you install the foam pads in the correct location. Also, JD provides a replacement bolt/nut that goes on the forward part of the bed. The stock nut can scrape the snorkel body. Total time was 2.5 hours. Not having to cut a window guard and going with my stud install solution should cut this one down to an hour. Have fun if you do it. Nice upgrade.
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