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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got the winch completely installed. I would like to thank all the previous posters for their feedback since it made a difference in the process.

Here is the installation process:

Removed the hood to get clean access



Made a cardboard template to locate, checking clearances, and for drilling holes



Solenoid installed



Made a JD like wiring hardness to tap into the switched power plus a new input for other attachments. I purchased the connectors/contacts from Performance Connection Solutions - fast delivery.



Glovebox removed to drill hole for remote.



Glovebox re-installed with remote installed showing clearance of screws. need to keep low



Interior glove box view with remote connection



Wiring harness added to connection on driver's side



Wiring from remote and dash swtich (red wires) tied to connector going into wiring harness. I cut off the piggy back connectors from handle bar swtich since I was using my own switch.



Dash switches ready for pre-testing. The winch switch is a Contura marine switch (got off ebay) and the off/on switch for power was a Euro style from Allied Electronics done CaptDan style



Switches snapped in - easy to remove if needed



Wiring down to winch. Used red/black to winch, yellow/ blue to battery due to length



Wires going down to winch.



Winch installed on bracket and wired up without remote My winch end stopper had not arrived.



The battery mess before starting.. all those cables are mostly the wiring harness for the add on OPS switch kit and the windshield wiper. It includes more taps, breakers, etc and several unused connectors for who knows what all stuffed by the battery. To get access to under the center console (between buckets) I was able to remove one side and bent up, It looked like a job to remove the console itself (seat belt holders, etc)



Wires running through center channel



Solenoid end all wired up



Mounting the circuit breaker in the soap box and taped it shut



All stuffed back in place. The ring terminal on the negative cable was too small in diameter to fit the negative post screw so had to file it so it would fit over stud.



Center armrest surround back in place




Installed wiring cleaned up somewhat after successful test



Finally installed with rope/stopper



Front view



Close up shot



The Cambridge metals winch bracket worked like a champ and actually easier to install than one would expect. The slotted holes on the rear screws allow you to flip the screws in place since the winch is already bolted to the frame. The connection at winch rear was not too bad.

The winch has plenty of room left to right and close at the top.

The rope was easy to install after I replaced the vinyl tape on the end and re-wrapped. It slid through easy and taped to drum along length per instructions from Superwinch.

I ordered the winch stopper from amazon. It fed easily on rope and had slots for rope protector.

The only change I plan to make it add a connection in the power feed line from remote connector to wiring harness on opposite side. I realized after installation that since the remote socket is installed from inside to remove glove box requires pulling the the power line from the tubing I added for wiring so will break the line near the solenoid.
 

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Nice detailed write up and pics!!!!!!!! Looks awesome!!!!!!!!
 

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Nice Job! I am going to use some of your planning in the install of my Superwinch on my XUV 550! Thanks. Jim
 

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I put synthetic rope mine little winch too. My winch is just 2000lb ATV winch but it works well.
 

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Made a JD like wiring hardness to tap into the switched power plus a new input for other attachments. I purchased the connectors/contacts from Performance Connection Solutions - fast delivery.

Do you happen to have part numbers for the harness ends you built?
 

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I only used the hot from that connector rather than getting the nice connector that Bunky used.

I got my winch on and working with the remote cable Saturday in time for a trail ride that I did Monday morning. It's not the super winch, rather a cheapy Chinese unit, but it's 3500 pounds and works really well. I do wish I had a synthetic cable, but with luck I won't have to use it enough to make any difference. Fingers crossed.

I went out to the shop tonight and got the dash switch almost finished. Since I don't have that nice connector I tapped the switched hot from that connector. I lack the in and out connections from the dash switch to the relay. I plan on making some jumpers tomorrow night that will allow me to plug them in place for the in and out connections without cutting up the winch kit wiring.

This thread has been extremely helpful. Thanks Bunky.
 

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Bunky,

I am assuming that you use the hot feed directly from the battery for the remote switch and the switched hot from the tee connector for the dash switch. If so, this didn't cause any back feed into the switched connection did it? I am theorizing that as long as both switches are not used at the same time, all will be well.
 

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Bunky,

I am assuming that you use the hot feed directly from the battery for the remote switch and the switched hot from the tee connector for the dash switch.
MBDiagMan, His statement says
"Wiring from remote and dash swtich (red wires) tied to connector going into wiring harness."
So it looks like both switches are getting power off the same wiring harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bunky,

I am assuming that you use the hot feed directly from the battery for the remote switch and the switched hot from the tee connector for the dash switch. If so, this didn't cause any back feed into the switched connection did it? I am theorizing that as long as both switches are not used at the same time, all will be well.
I followed the instructions and just used switched power for both. They just tie into the solenoid at the same spot (closing the circuit).

I have only used it a few times but nothing notice anything odd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I ordered them online from Performance Connections

Packard 56 series female connector 297378129737815 $0.55
Packard 56 series male connector 298488329848835 $0.69
14/16 gauge Packard 56 series male terminal 2971962297196210 $0.39
14/16 gauge Packard 56 female terminal for double wire crimp 12124522

Now I learned if you crimp 2 16AWG wires you will need a 12AWG terminal for the best crimp on the insulation so I would have ordered some of them too.
 

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Finished up my install yesterday and did almost exactly like your install (thanks for the how to). I was surprised that the supplied wires were all I needed for my 825i S4 (swapped blue/yellow and red/black like you as well). I felt sure they wouldn't reach the battery on the 4 seater but were exactly the right length. Rather than use the circuit breaker included with the winch, I bought a 100Amp manual reset breaker from O'Reilly and mounted it under the dash. I also put the remote plug in the back of the glove box, rather than the side.

Poor picture, but you get the idea. If it trips, i can reach it to reset it with out having to open anything up.


I put my dash switch under the display next to the head light switch (forgot to take those pictures) since I have the electric dump switch on the left of the steering wheel. I temp connected the ignition power to that same harness you used, and will get the connectors online to make it permanent and more attractive.
 

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teul,

Would you want to sell the automatic circuit breaker that you didn't use?

I was logging on to start a thread to find out what I need in the way of a circuit breaker. No circuit breaker came with my Chinese cheapie.

BTW, your installation looks great.

Also, will 100Amps be a large enough circuit breaker under full load? The data that came with my winch indicated 200 Amp peak draw. I doubt that either of us will ever be in a situation requiring everything the winch can give, thus drawing such current, but it sure would be a bad deal to be in such a situation and our problem be compounded by a tripping breaker.
 

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The SuperWinch shows a 178A draw pulling 4500lbs. But if it comes to pulling that much weight, I'll be using a snatch block. That should cut the draw in 1/2. And, I did put it where I can get to it easily.

And, if you want my circuit breaker, you can have it. Just cover shipping. But, if I were you, I'd put in one like mine for $32. They also had a 150A
Littelfuse Blister Pack 185150BP - Circuit Breaker | O'Reilly Auto Parts
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I see you put your cabling in conduit. It makes it look even more professional. I had asked about the circuit breaker and not read anything about it being an issue in use.

The snatch can do two things - it cuts the pull load in half at the expense of speed but also usually means you have fed out more line so could be pulling from a lower layer.
 

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Please don't anyone think that I'm being argumentative.

I think I must have missed some discussion, and have missed something. I am curious what has led some people to prefer a manual reset circuit breaker in place of an automatic circuit breaker.

The automatic circuit breakers began being used in automotive headlight circuits in the late forties or early fifties and served as a great safety feature for decades. For all I know, they might even still be in use on today's cars.

On the surface, it would appear that this would be a great solution for the winch circuit.

Thanks in advance for offering your explanations and opinions.
 

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I am curious what has led some people to prefer a manual reset circuit breaker in place of an automatic circuit breaker.
I preferred it for a few reasons. Mounting of the manual was much easier. I didn't have to go make something up to keep it from shorting out. With the manual, if it trips the circuit, I am more likely to think about what I am doing, and find a more efficient way instead of it just coming back on and keeping on doing what I am doing (I'm lazy that way). Also, not as likely, I can shut it off completely should there be some electrical issue or I just don't want someone to be able to use it.
 

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I got a 150 Amp auto reset breaker new off ebay. They had it for $17 with a make offer. I offered $10 and they took the offer. $6 additional for shipping and the brown truck dropped it off yesterday.

I mounted it on the inner wall of the battery compartment. There is only a 4" of wire from the battery to the breaker so almost all of the circuitry is protected.
 

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Having trouble with the pictures and my weak wireless signal. The previous post has a picture of the button screws from the outside of the battery compartment with the air filter removed. I will try to post a picture of breaker before installation.
 

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Here are my other install pictures.
Battery box


Glove box remote connection


Dash mounted switch in place of the one that came in the box.
 
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