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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, this is about an old TE - Gator (Electro-Hydro) that I inherited in a non-working condition and I don't understand exactly why. So far, troubleshooting has shown the following:

Everything that works:

We put in new batteries. They can be charged normally via the charger and the charge indicator on the dashboard shows this correctly.
1. Question: IS THIS DISPLAY CONTROLLED BY THE CENTRAL CURTIS CONTROLLER AND SO DOES IT PROVE THAT THE CURTIS CONTROLLER IS BASICALLY WORKING? The Curtis Controller is the central control unit for the entire vehicle and shows error codes by flashing lamps.

The hydraulics for moving the loading area up and down works and the lights can also be switched on.

When you turn the key, current is passed on as it should.

Things that DO NOT WORK:

When you step on the accelerator, the relevant micro-controller (see photos) no longer seems to be functional. The electricity goes in, but does not come out on the other side.
2. Question: Should this actually be indicated by the central Curtis controller with a flashing light as an error code, or does it mean that the Curtis controller is also broken because it does not react with a flashing error code?

3rd question: Does anyone have to sell a (used) Curtis controller at a reasonable price?

4th question: Does someone have to hand over a (used) micro-controller for the accelerator pedal from an old vehicle by chance. This part is called THROTTLE POTENTIOMETER (see photos)

If anyone here happens to be able to help with ideas for further troubleshooting and repairing my old Gator (bought around 2002 in France), that would be really great ....
14516

Vehicle baught around 2002
14517

Throttle Potentiometer
14518

Throttlepotentiometer part 1
14519

Throttlepotentiometer part 2
14520

Curtis Controller
 

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You might find it useful to procure a copy of the technical manual. There are sections describing theory of operation and how the various components work together. Plus it has tests on how to trouble shot the compensate along with wiring diagrams.

Jdmanual.com or maybe it’s jdmanuals.com

Good luck with your project.
 

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I had something similar go with mine. Look for flashing light on the controller. It should flash a code if there is an error in the system. I didn't really check that in detail at first. Bad on me. I sent my controller in and had it rebuilt because of the price of new or used replacement. They told me it was in good condition and didn't need rebuilding but went through it and did replace some components that were on the edge of tolerances.. I checked flash codes then and replaced the motor speed sensor. All good now. The electrical system in these is strange to say the least, between primary switched, secondary switched and unswitched power.
 

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Lift Parts Warehouse was the company that rebuild my controller. Speed control found on Amazon but most golf cart shops will have one that can be used by changing connector plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello and thanks a lot for the comments. But the motor controller doesn t show any flashing signal.
After excluding different faults, I now can describe finally the real problem:
The Gator always turns on straight ways without inclination - forwards and backwards - immediately to full engine power as soon as you even tap the gas pedal (throttle). After that, you can only slightly accelerate to a frightening top speed. However, if you keep the accelerator pedal unchanged, the engine stops turning again after a short time, light pressure returns to full power, then again no power. It is a very jerky driving experience between great speed and sudden deceleration.
However, if you drive uphill - forwards or backwards - and the vehicle measures a greater resistance, ONLY THEN does the speed accelerator pedal /"throttle" work exactly as it should, so it gradually accelerates the harder you step on it. WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM? The measurements on the throttle potentiometer show slight deviations from the target values, but uphill it actually works perfectly. So why should it be the reason for problems on a slope-free way? Which other sensor might still play a role here? The speed sensor on the engine is definitely not the problem either. We measured it and it works perfectly. Thank you in advance for any further advice ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hello, this is about an old TE - Gator (Electro-Hydro) that I inherited in a non-working condition and I don't understand exactly why. So far, troubleshooting has shown the following:

Everything that works:

We put in new batteries. They can be charged normally via the charger and the charge indicator on the dashboard shows this correctly.
1. Question: IS THIS DISPLAY CONTROLLED BY THE CENTRAL CURTIS CONTROLLER AND SO DOES IT PROVE THAT THE CURTIS CONTROLLER IS BASICALLY WORKING? The Curtis Controller is the central control unit for the entire vehicle and shows error codes by flashing lamps.

The hydraulics for moving the loading area up and down works and the lights can also be switched on.

When you turn the key, current is passed on as it should.

Things that DO NOT WORK:

When you step on the accelerator, the relevant micro-controller (see photos) no longer seems to be functional. The electricity goes in, but does not come out on the other side.
2. Question: Should this actually be indicated by the central Curtis controller with a flashing light as an error code, or does it mean that the Curtis controller is also broken because it does not react with a flashing error code?

3rd question: Does anyone have to sell a (used) Curtis controller at a reasonable price?

4th question: Does someone have to hand over a (used) micro-controller for the accelerator pedal from an old vehicle by chance. This part is called THROTTLE POTENTIOMETER (see photos)

If anyone here happens to be able to help with ideas for further troubleshooting and repairing my old Gator (bought around 2002 in France), that would be really great ....
View attachment 14516
Vehicle baught around 2002
View attachment 14517
Throttle Potentiometer
View attachment 14518
Throttlepotentiometer part 1
View attachment 14519
Throttlepotentiometer part 2
View attachment 14520
Curtis Controller
Hello and thanks a lot for the comments. But the motor controller doesn t show any flashing signal.
After excluding different faults, I now can describe finally the real problem:
The Gator always turns on straight ways without inclination - forwards and backwards - immediately to full engine power as soon as you even tap the gas pedal (throttle). After that, you can only slightly accelerate to a frightening top speed. However, if you keep the accelerator pedal unchanged, the engine stops turning again after a short time, light pressure returns to full power, then again no power. It is a very jerky driving experience between great speed and sudden deceleration.
However, if you drive uphill - forwards or backwards - and the vehicle measures a greater resistance, ONLY THEN does the speed accelerator pedal /"throttle" work exactly as it should, so it gradually accelerates the harder you step on it. WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM? The measurements on the throttle potentiometer show slight deviations from the target values, but uphill it actually works perfectly. So why should it be the reason for problems on a slope-free way? Which other sensor might still play a role here? The speed sensor on the engine is definitely not the problem either. We measured it and it works perfectly. Thank you in advance for any further advice ...
Hello, this is about an old TE - Gator (Electro-Hydro) that I inherited in a non-working condition and I don't understand exactly why. So far, troubleshooting has shown the following:

Everything that works:

We put in new batteries. They can be charged normally via the charger and the charge indicator on the dashboard shows this correctly.
1. Question: IS THIS DISPLAY CONTROLLED BY THE CENTRAL CURTIS CONTROLLER AND SO DOES IT PROVE THAT THE CURTIS CONTROLLER IS BASICALLY WORKING? The Curtis Controller is the central control unit for the entire vehicle and shows error codes by flashing lamps.

The hydraulics for moving the loading area up and down works and the lights can also be switched on.

When you turn the key, current is passed on as it should.

Things that DO NOT WORK:

When you step on the accelerator, the relevant micro-controller (see photos) no longer seems to be functional. The electricity goes in, but does not come out on the other side.
2. Question: Should this actually be indicated by the central Curtis controller with a flashing light as an error code, or does it mean that the Curtis controller is also broken because it does not react with a flashing error code?

3rd question: Does anyone have to sell a (used) Curtis controller at a reasonable price?

4th question: Does someone have to hand over a (used) micro-controller for the accelerator pedal from an old vehicle by chance. This part is called THROTTLE POTENTIOMETER (see photos)

If anyone here happens to be able to help with ideas for further troubleshooting and repairing my old Gator (bought around 2002 in France), that would be really great ....
View attachment 14516
Vehicle baught around 2002
View attachment 14517
Throttle Potentiometer
View attachment 14518
Throttlepotentiometer part 1
View attachment 14519
Throttlepotentiometer part 2
View attachment 14520
Curtis Controller
Good news: The gator works again!
After we exchanged the old potentiometer for a new one, we unfortunately could not see any improvement at first. That's why we thought that the old potentiometer wasn't broken at all. What we didn't know: The controller was also broken - namely due to the old, defective potentiometer. Who could have guessed that BOTH was broken - Potentiometer and Curtis Controller? When opening the Curtis Motor Controller, it was found that two resistors related to the potentiometer had burned out. The reason can either be that the associated cables are incorrectly connected or that there is a defect in the potentiometer itself. After the two resistors in the motor controller were replaced (see photo), the new potentiometer worked perfectly. We found a young man in Austria to whom we could send the controller. He diagnosed the error, replaced the resistors and sent the device back to us. (Most of the time, the errors are more likely to be found in the "power semiconductor of the field control" or in a dammage cause by intrusion of water, but not in our case.) Further helpful information on the John Deere TE gator is provided by the really very complete manual: http://golftechs.us/Manuals/JDegator.pdf Best regards to everyone and thanks for previous advice, Tine
14716
 

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Thanks for supplying the details and glad yours is fixed?
👍👍👍
 
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