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Discussion Starter #41

Also managed to roll out some creases using the heat gun, careful though, it’ll melt quick!


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Look what reared it’s ugly head, one of my rims was split!
It’ll need welding


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I’ve been a welder all my life. I can take care of that right away for you. Well as right away as I can after it travels half way around the globe to get here. You get it to me, and I’ll give you the member discount (free)....you just cover shipping?
 

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Discussion Starter #43


Look what reared it’s ugly head, one of my rims was split!
It’ll need welding


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I’ve been a welder all my life. I can take care of that right away for you. Well as right away as I can after it travels half way around the globe to get here. You get it to me, and I’ll give you the member discount (free)....you just cover shipping?


That’s a very generous offer thank you! I may just come for a holiday and bring my wheel - try explaining that to the wife
Funny thing is that a new rim is about €100 and it comes with the new bearings and spacers already pressed in.
The new bearings and spacers cost me about €95 and then I have to paint the rims, oh and now weld the rim...hmmm.
Worth checking prices if you’re doing similar job


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Discussion Starter #44


Look what reared it’s ugly head, one of my rims was split!
It’ll need welding


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I’ve been a welder all my life. I can take care of that right away for you. Well as right away as I can after it travels half way around the globe to get here. You get it to me, and I’ll give you the member discount (free)....you just cover shipping?


On another note, do I need to press this together before I weld or just weld as is?
The king pin slides in & turns easy with no seemingly added friction.


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Look what reared it’s ugly head, one of my rims was split!
It’ll need welding


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve been a welder all my life. I can take care of that right away for you. Well as right away as I can after it travels half way around the globe to get here. You get it to me, and I’ll give you the member discount (free)....you just cover shipping?


On another note, do I need to press this together before I weld or just weld as is?
The king pin slides in & turns easy with no seemingly added friction.


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Will the heat from welding damage the seal and or bearing?
 
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Discussion Starter #46
I’ve been a welder all my life. I can take care of that right away for you. Well as right away as I can after it travels half way around the globe to get here. You get it to me, and I’ll give you the member discount (free)....you just cover shipping?


On another note, do I need to press this together before I weld or just weld as is?
The king pin slides in & turns easy with no seemingly added friction.


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Will the heat from welding damage the seal and or bearing?
Yes another good question
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Got a few more bits painted today, cab mounts, brush guard, cab console, tow bar (sure why not :))
Forgot to put my hood up while painting and got a few funny looks afterwards, that gloss black really sticks!

Can’t wait to hit the front suspension & transaxle with some gloss black!


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I’m curious what type of sprayer are you using, can you show the setup?
Thanks
 
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Clamp it together to close the gap on the crack. Get it is tight as you can as that is where it was before the split. Do this without the bearing or the seal inserted. I feel the heat from the weld will damage them. With it clamped, if you can, grind a slight groove in the crack. This will ensure better penetration. It is also important to start the weld before the crack and continue past the crack. If you cannot get a groove cut in it, no problem. It’s extra precaution. More important to start and stop the weld before and after the actual crack. This helps prevent the crack from “walking”. Hope this helps! Any questions feel free to ask away or PM them to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I’m curious what type of sprayer are you using, can you show the setup?
Thanks


Gladly, I’ll get some photos tomorrow


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Ok, here’s the gun I use, I’ve attached a regulator at the base for easy air flow adjustment. I usually keep it at 2bar cause that’s what someone told me, seems to work fine.

I started out spraying with my 50ltr compressor, it kept the pressure up but was constantly going, so I upgraded to a 200ltr. This is a such a world apart and much better for running all your air tools, anyone thinking of a compressor, do yourselves a favour and get a 200ltr and one that has a good supply of spares.
Oh and stick it in another room!!!

Next you’ll need some kind of water filter/catcher. Mine is a simple single design with an air regulation knob. It rarely fills up for the amonut I use it.

And not forgetting ventilation, I move this extraction fan to the work area and hook it up to the roof window.

Hope that answers your questions, let me know if you’ve any more


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Discussion Starter #53


Transaxle shafts came out today and got refitted with new bearings, seals & brake shoes.
Interestingly the bearings stated “Made in USA” on the box but “Made in China” on the bearing I wonder did they mean the box was USA made


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Just looking at your project for some tips and pointers on how to manage the painting.

I never thought about using owatrol on my ts even though i used it often on my boat so i think id do that aswell.
Good setup with the spit too by the way.

Be glad its a te and not a ts by the way as mine is a total nightmare to strip as there are a lot more parts on mine.
Yours looks like a dream to work on.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #56
ט×[emoji769 said:
×� ×רו×למ×;93699]Just looking at your project for some tips and pointers on how to manage the painting.

I never thought about using owatrol on my ts even though i used it often on my boat so i think id do that aswell.
Good setup with the spit too by the way.

Be glad its a te and not a ts by the way as mine is a total nightmare to strip as there are a lot more parts on mine.
Yours looks like a dream to work on.

Good luck


Thanks!

It’s still hanging there, thinking I might order some tinsel for it, just in time for next Christmas

Hope to get back at it by the end of this month.

Yes I’m glad it’s electric, far less moving parts, dirt, oil etc, just make sure you take LOADS of pics and label all the wiring loom and connectors before you disconnect.
Also best to remove all the wiring, I wasn’t going to at first but glad I did in the end. The angle grinder strip disk can catch and knick the wiring easily.

Will update


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ט×[emoji769 said:
×Â� ×רו×למ×;93699]Just looking at your project for some tips and pointers on how to manage the painting.

I never thought about using owatrol on my ts even though i used it often on my boat so i think id do that aswell.
Good setup with the spit too by the way.

Be glad its a te and not a ts by the way as mine is a total nightmare to strip as there are a lot more parts on mine.
Yours looks like a dream to work on.

Good luck


Thanks!

It’s still hanging there, thinking I might order some tinsel for it, just in time for next Christmas

Hope to get back at it by the end of this month.

Yes I’m glad it’s electric, far less moving parts, dirt, oil etc, just make sure you take LOADS of pics and label all the wiring loom and connectors before you disconnect.
Also best to remove all the wiring, I wasn’t going to at first but glad I did in the end. The angle grinder strip disk can catch and knick the wiring easily.

Will update


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The wiring loom wont be a problem, i just cut it out as it wont be seeing the original engine ever again. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Time for updates!

It's been very slow here, everywhere I suspect...what a strange year we're experiencing. Hope you're all well and managing the new world we find ourselves in.

Anyway, back to all things green :)

With the transaxle off the machine I was able to give the diff housing a nice clean with various wire brushes on my screw gun
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Ok so I know you won't see it when in situ but I'll know it's done!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Then it was on to prepping the transaxle for paint.
I masked off areas and used a high temp matt paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Forgot to mention, the rubber dust seals around the brake drums were worn & broken and with no sign of replacement rubbers available, I used some sticky black tech7 to reseal the areas, works good.
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