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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone installed aftermarket parts to add pep to a 2011 Gator 825i. Wider drive belt, stronger clutch springs, removed/adjusted the governor, etc.?

I'm just doing a little pondering...
 

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Doesn't look like anyone has added any aftermarket parts yet; I'm wondering what works and will no doubt do some mods myself. I quess we'll have to wait and see if anyone else has done anything and how it works.
 

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K&N

Does the K&N add any power? I still have the stock filter and wonder if it's worth it. Thanks for any advice
 

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The K&N reduces the air flow restriction somewhat, I run them in my Corvette and my Kawasaki ZX12R but I would stick with the JD if your running the Gator in dusty conditions as I assume they are actually better filters. I also have a JD 990 tractor and I use the JD filters in it. The K&N filter alone provides only very marginal hp gains and then its only at the upper rpm range where the difference in airflow is slightly better than the JD filters. On my 4 cylinder Kawasaki I only got a 10 hp increase by installing filters, Powercommander, Yosh muffler and removing the cat converter.
 

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Someone told me their is a chip available to add more power it plug directly to the battery simple installation. By changing the clutch and the belt you could get more speed out of the gator but I'm wondering if you'll get the same acceleration (power band)
 

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If my memories is right I believed it was called a power commander. Try a goggle search to find a location near you. If I recall the power commander play with the air and fuel ratio to gain more power.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Universal product:

MAGNUM REVOLUTION PRO II ATV Speed / REV Limiter Ignition CDI Box John Deere Gator 825i

... also this product states:

Highly recommended to wire up a fuel controller to the engine like EVO-Tech or Dyno-Boost prior to the installation of REV-PRO, because this primary ECU mod will allow you to set the injection timing and Air Fuel Ratio, being an essential adjustment in conjunction with enhanced ignition (resolved by REV-PRO), in the reason of higher engine performance.
Without a fuel controller REV-PRO will not perform efficiently.


That puts us at $140 + $150 = $290 for both pieces. Not sure I wanna tackle the install either.

Keeping my eyes open!


 

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I would stay away from those magnum products things. I have heard nothing but bad things about them. Its a generic product that can damage your engine if not properly tuned.
 

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I know a few guy which intall the power commander on ATV and motocycle and they are very happy with it. But none on the Gator.
 

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825i clutch

Has anyone installed aftermarket parts to add pep to a 2011 Gator 825i. Wider drive belt, stronger clutch springs, removed/adjusted the governor, etc.?

I'm just doing a little pondering...
I just bought a new 825i, very unhappy about the high engine rpms, john deere could use some clutch specialest's in their team. I made my front clutch spring weaker and my rear clutch spring weaker. Now I do not have to give it so much gas to get some where, myself I think its much eaiser on the engine. It has the same amount of pulling power too. Jd said it could not be done, I knew better. I did not mess with the weights. But I am having some made that weigh a few more grams. Just changing the spring stiffness was a huge inprovement.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I made my front clutch spring weaker and my rear clutch spring weaker.

How did you change the stiffness of the clutch springs?
 

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I made my front clutch spring weaker and my rear clutch spring weaker.

How did you change the stiffness of the clutch springs?
I'd love to know how it was done too...and, are you saying that your RPM's are lower going the same speed you used to go???....if so, then how fast can you go with the lighter springs???...

Thank you in advance....

Larry in MD
 

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clutch spring

Weakening the clutch springs was very easy, pull off the plastic clutch cover, pull off the outside of the front clutch basket, the rear pully slides off by removeing one long bolt that holds it on. No pully puller is needed at all. With the spring in my hand I ran the outside of the coil evenly around a wheel grinder untill I acheived my goal, It took about 5 tries to get it the way I wanted it. I took off app 1/3 the thickness of the spring on the front and about 1/4 thickness on the back spring, note (I did not shorten the springs at all just weakend the stiffness). Yes it runs the same speed at a lot lower rpm now that it did at a high rpm when I first bought it. If you donot want to mess with your factory springs, their is a company that custome builds any size of compression springs, W B Jones Spring Co.. they have a website as well. If they offered a heaver clutch weight, you would not even have to mess with your clutch springs, I am in the process of trying to have some made, to bennifit other people with the same issues on high rpms that I have, with out having to mess with clutch springs.:)
 

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Tadpolesv....Thanx a bunch for that information...I'm going to open mine up to see what you are talking about, as I have never seen the inside of the clutch cover...I am thinking that once I see it up close, I will understand what you are talking about better as I am not sure exactly where you are grinding the springs...it doesn't sound like it's too much of a big deal though...also, thanx for posting the info about the company that makes the different compression springs...

When you get the clutch weight thing figured out, please post that info as I am very interested in that too...

Larry in MD
 
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