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Does anyone have a list of tools (sizes) needed for the clutch removal on the XUV550? Mine is at the lake 2 hours away & I’m trying to be prepared when I go to remove the clutch.

TIA
 

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Does anyone have a list of tools (sizes) needed for the clutch removal on the XUV550? Mine is at the lake 2 hours away & I’m trying to be prepared when I go to remove the clutch.



TIA


Check out this video on YouTube. One of the members here @Evan165 produced the video, he does a great job of going through the clutch removal process, he also speaks to the tools needed.

 

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I'm too lazy to watch the video but...

Your first reaction might be to only try and remove the clutch covers. I've found it easier to remove the bed and side body panels to make access easier. A Torx T20 bit in a cordless drill helps speed things up. Then for the clutch covers you'll need a 10mm socket. Most of the bolts are easily accessible but a couple are buggers. Using a 1/4" socket helps as does having a good variety of extensions and a universal joint.
 

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I'm too lazy to watch the video but...



Your first reaction might be to only try and remove the clutch covers. I've found it easier to remove the bed and side body panels to make access easier. A Torx T20 bit in a cordless drill helps speed things up. Then for the clutch covers you'll need a 10mm socket. Most of the bolts are easily accessible but a couple are buggers. Using a 1/4" socket helps as does having a good variety of extensions and a universal joint.


Thanks dane!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm too lazy to watch the video but...

Your first reaction might be to only try and remove the clutch covers. I've found it easier to remove the bed and side body panels to make access easier. A Torx T20 bit in a cordless drill helps speed things up. Then for the clutch covers you'll need a 10mm socket. Most of the bolts are easily accessible but a couple are buggers. Using a 1/4" socket helps as does having a good variety of extensions and a universal joint.

Appreciate it!
 

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I can't remember the sizes but you also need some large sized metric sockets and an adjustable wrench since you'll have to get the bed off of it to change the clutch out. Don't forget a lug wrench as well and jackstands as you need get the rear wheel off.

I have a large Stanley toolkit (http://a.co/1w4yUxi) , a larger adjustable wrench, and a Torx bit set that I keep near my Gator... seems to cover almost everything. A Drill/Driver and Impact wrench are also helpful. The Drill/Driver is better for the trim screws so you run a lower risk of stripping out the threads when putting them back in.

Also, you need a clutch puller tool... JDG 1641 should be the right one for the Primary Clutch; JDG11200 only fit my driven clutch but was what the dealer sent me; as a side note, my local dealer said they "can't" sell me either tool. I made the puller for use on the primary clutch using the instructions in another thread (http://www.gatorforums.net/forum/gator-general-discussion/5650-help-clutch-puller-tool-825i-850d-855d.html). I used a 7/16 diameter bolt in place of the 1/2" bolt. It took about 5-10 minutes with the angle grinder and a dremel to cut the bolt, bevel the edges, and smooth then ends. I used #8 bolts for both... don't forget the anti-seize on the threads and to lubricate the ends.

Also, be prepared for some busted knuckles, I swear that they make this as hard as possible to do at home. I definitely needed to pull all the body panels and the bed plus loosening the air cleaner housing to get enough space to work on the clutch. It was just time consuming to get everything off and the clutch out... although there was that break when I discovered that JDG11200 didn't work and then needed to source/make the right tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I can't remember the sizes but you also need some large sized metric sockets and an adjustable wrench since you'll have to get the bed off of it to change the clutch out. Don't forget a lug wrench as well and jackstands as you need get the rear wheel off.

I have a large Stanley toolkit (http://a.co/1w4yUxi) , a larger adjustable wrench, and a Torx bit set that I keep near my Gator... seems to cover almost everything. A Drill/Driver and Impact wrench are also helpful. The Drill/Driver is better for the trim screws so you run a lower risk of stripping out the threads when putting them back in.

Also, you need a clutch puller tool... JDG 1641 should be the right one for the Primary Clutch; JDG11200 only fit my driven clutch but was what the dealer sent me; as a side note, my local dealer said they "can't" sell me either tool. I made the puller for use on the primary clutch using the instructions in another thread (http://www.gatorforums.net/forum/gator-general-discussion/5650-help-clutch-puller-tool-825i-850d-855d.html). I used a 7/16 diameter bolt in place of the 1/2" bolt. It took about 5-10 minutes with the angle grinder and a dremel to cut the bolt, bevel the edges, and smooth then ends. I used #8 bolts for both... don't forget the anti-seize on the threads and to lubricate the ends.

Also, be prepared for some busted knuckles, I swear that they make this as hard as possible to do at home. I definitely needed to pull all the body panels and the bed plus loosening the air cleaner housing to get enough space to work on the clutch. It was just time consuming to get everything off and the clutch out... although there was that break when I discovered that JDG11200 didn't work and then needed to source/make the right tool.
Thanks! I ordered the bolt new off eBay for $18. 😉
 

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I can't remember the sizes but you also need some large sized metric sockets and an adjustable wrench since you'll have to get the bed off of it to change the clutch out. Don't forget a lug wrench as well and jackstands as you need get the rear wheel off.



I have a large Stanley toolkit (http://a.co/1w4yUxi) , a larger adjustable wrench, and a Torx bit set that I keep near my Gator... seems to cover almost everything. A Drill/Driver and Impact wrench are also helpful. The Drill/Driver is better for the trim screws so you run a lower risk of stripping out the threads when putting them back in.



Also, you need a clutch puller tool... JDG 1641 should be the right one for the Primary Clutch; JDG11200 only fit my driven clutch but was what the dealer sent me; as a side note, my local dealer said they "can't" sell me either tool. I made the puller for use on the primary clutch using the instructions in another thread (http://www.gatorforums.net/forum/gator-general-discussion/5650-help-clutch-puller-tool-825i-850d-855d.html). I used a 7/16 diameter bolt in place of the 1/2" bolt. It took about 5-10 minutes with the angle grinder and a dremel to cut the bolt, bevel the edges, and smooth then ends. I used #8 bolts for both... don't forget the anti-seize on the threads and to lubricate the ends.



Also, be prepared for some busted knuckles, I swear that they make this as hard as possible to do at home. I definitely needed to pull all the body panels and the bed plus loosening the air cleaner housing to get enough space to work on the clutch. It was just time consuming to get everything off and the clutch out... although there was that break when I discovered that JDG11200 didn't work and then needed to source/make the right tool.


Thanks! I ordered the bolt new off eBay for $18.


Hello yaker

If you could please post a link to the tool? That is a fantastic price for a JDG1641!
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I can't remember the sizes but you also need some large sized metric sockets and an adjustable wrench since you'll have to get the bed off of it to change the clutch out. Don't forget a lug wrench as well and jackstands as you need get the rear wheel off.



I have a large Stanley toolkit (http://a.co/1w4yUxi) , a larger adjustable wrench, and a Torx bit set that I keep near my Gator... seems to cover almost everything. A Drill/Driver and Impact wrench are also helpful. The Drill/Driver is better for the trim screws so you run a lower risk of stripping out the threads when putting them back in.



Also, you need a clutch puller tool... JDG 1641 should be the right one for the Primary Clutch; JDG11200 only fit my driven clutch but was what the dealer sent me; as a side note, my local dealer said they "can't" sell me either tool. I made the puller for use on the primary clutch using the instructions in another thread (http://www.gatorforums.net/forum/gator-general-discussion/5650-help-clutch-puller-tool-825i-850d-855d.html). I used a 7/16 diameter bolt in place of the 1/2" bolt. It took about 5-10 minutes with the angle grinder and a dremel to cut the bolt, bevel the edges, and smooth then ends. I used #8 bolts for both... don't forget the anti-seize on the threads and to lubricate the ends.



Also, be prepared for some busted knuckles, I swear that they make this as hard as possible to do at home. I definitely needed to pull all the body panels and the bed plus loosening the air cleaner housing to get enough space to work on the clutch. It was just time consuming to get everything off and the clutch out... although there was that break when I discovered that JDG11200 didn't work and then needed to source/make the right tool.


Thanks! I ordered the bolt new off eBay for $18.


Hello yaker

If you could please post a link to the tool? That is a fantastic price for a JDG1641!
Thanks

Looks like they only had the one.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/332639665932
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Goodness!

The clutch is off. I guess it wasn’t all that bad just time consuming having to remove everything to get to it. I took several videos to help jog my memory when it’s time to reinstall. Thanks to all for the help / advice.
 

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Goodness!



The clutch is off. I guess it wasn’t all that bad just time consuming having to remove everything to get to it. I took several videos to help jog my memory when it’s time to reinstall. Thanks to all for the help / advice.


Great news!!!
 

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Yea, 3/4 the job is removing the bed and body panels to get to it. Long ago the first time I had to get to the clutch I tried not removing anything. Then just a few body panels. It was quite a waste of time and caused a lot of skinned knuckles. Now, I feel like a race car pit crew as I quickly strip off panels before ever getting down to the real work.
 

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It's a good time for an engine oil change and you should inspect the air filter. I would give the CV boots a inspection looking for cracks. Then just give everything a general looking over while you have the panels off. It also wouldn't hurt to look at the brake pads to make sure they don't need replacing.

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Here are the things I have had trouble with on my 550:

Primary Clutch: After having it tuned my MBDiagman it has been working properly.

Engine Head Gasket: Early models of the engine had a head gasket very prone to blowing. There is a good chance that yours has been replaced already. From what I've heard the replacement gaskets are good and took care of the problem.

Parking Brake Cable: It's pretty obvious when it breaks. Deere has redesigned the part and so far the new one has not broken.

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Only use 4WD when it is truly necessary and when the wheels can slip. Turning sharp on firm ground with 4WD engaged can snap a drive shaft. You don't have to avoid 4WD but just be mindful that it puts a strain on things when turning sharply and the wheels can't slip.
 
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